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TLP

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About TLP

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    knife sheaths
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    everything leather working related
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  1. how is the knife holding its edge? the carbide tipped saw blades are not usually very good steel. the saw blades best for repurposing for knives are the non tipped blades which use a better steel and are heat treated to be harder.
  2. Are there standard widths for mens belts?
  3. A couple of observations for what they are worth. Firstly, the micro torch might be a bit on the small side for conchos larger then a quarter. never used one myself but have had students and friends that used them, They seemed to have trouble with larger and heavier pcs. Secondly, I personally would not use a soft plumbing solder to attach the chicago screw. I would prefer to use a high temp silver solder and the appropriate flux for the increased strength of the bond. and finally after silver soldering the chicago screw in place soak the assembly in a mixture of white vinegar and salt to chemically remove the residue of the flux after which you can polish, this called pickling and can also be done with commercially available pickling compounds. A very nicely put together tutorial.
  4. Have a belt that I need to dye a dark black, My mentor was not sure what I should use having never used black. any suggestions would be appreciated
  5. Where can I find the cutting pattern and directions for a Ranger style belt with the narrower sewn on Billets?
  6. Where can I find the cutting pattern and directions for a Ranger style belt with the narrower sewn on Billets?
  7. Recently saw a belt with chevron shaped thread appliques, is this something that is purschased and applied, or is it made in place? did not get a chance to examine the belt and only saw it from a distance.
  8. I would start with 320 grit sandpaper then go to the buffer with bobbing compound, then tripoli compound and finish up with red rouge compound
  9. I use a jewelers saw when I am making stamps, only use the hack saw to square up the bolt heads. I find the hack saw to unwieldy for delicate work. Make sure you use good blades, a lot of the blades that come out of India are not that good. I use Hercules or Laser Gold blades from a jewelers supply house. # 1 or 2 would probably be sufficiently fine for the work you are doing
  10. the next stacked leather handle you do you might want to use a clear epoxy, it will soak into the leather and help to stabalize the handle ( seals and keeps out moisture ) is what I have used for knife handles, was recommended by the company that manfactured the blade in their finishing directions
  11. TLP

    Metal mold maker

    Are there any art / bronze foundries in your area? carve./ mould a pattern in wax and have them cast it
  12. did you ever check to see if the charms were magnetic? if so could silver solder. if brass bronze or copper also could silver solder, anything else would not try to solder. And not to be negative but epoxies like jb weld will not hold up over the long run. (My old jewelry teachers would have fit if I suggested its use) the only sure connection is to use solder or a mechanical connection (ie rivet)
  13. What kind of metal are the charms? anything other then silver, stainless steel or regular steel will be difficult. with the mentioned metals they can be silver soldered to a back pin of some kind and instant concho. with pot metals not so easy, the pot metal will melt before the solder. you may be able of epoxy a post to the charm, but it is almost certain to pop off. you might also try to solder to charms to a post with stabrite solder, a low temp solder for things like pot metal, but would be iffy in that you still might melt the charms first, but it is probably your best and strongest option.
  14. TLP

    Bolo Cord

    was going to use 6 strands
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