Gregg From Keystone Sewing

1st thing I thought of as well. I remember all the 97-10s I've seen running have the belt crossed up like this.

Mickt, If your machine is skipping stitches, you really should be looking at the hook timing, needle bar height, and distance from hook to needle. That's much more likely the issue. THAT said, you are talking about presser foot adjustments; one is to time the vibrating presser foot and needle in relation to the feed timing. On the 226R if I'm not mistaken, this is 'fixed' with a screw falling onto a a slot on the top shaft. May be wrong on that, but again not likely the issue here. This adjustment is on the two flat head screws that ride on the eccentric cam off off of the top shaft that 'drives' the walking foot shaft on the back of the arm, for lack of better description. The other adjustment you are referring to is the screw (some have a flat screw head in conjunction with a 10mm hex socket head) off the crank that adjusts the lift of the feet, that should be equal lift, favoring the outside if you have to use your judgment and not exact tools. This way both inside and outside feet rise equal. This is also found on the rock shaft bar that stick out the back of the machine. Again, I very much doubt either of these setting are what are making your Consew 226R skip stitches, and I would inspect a good number of things including worn or broken parts before even checking these settings on the machine, if it were skipping stitches.

Machine and motor are sold seperate here, and machines calls for a low speed 1725RPM motor. Nobody should be setting this machine up with 3450RPM motor, and if this is they case, it's wrong for this model.

That's exactly the same stance people 1st took when the Japanese equipment first started showing up in America in the mid to late '60s. I don't think I have to tell you how the story goes from there for companies like Juki, Seiko, Mitsubishi and the like, or how people feel about Japanese equipment today. Don't get me wrong, I still feel that Singer from the '60s and before sets the standard for quality. Even with technology advances in metal working and fabrication, it somehow seem like we are going back wards with these some of these new sewing machines.

The ability to stop on a dime and change thing up is not all that great, in some cases. Often, these not so improvements are not mentioned in parts books, to the suppliers, parts people, or anybody else. You find out when it breaks, reorder parts, and they show up looking nothing like what you are replacing, where they 'made improvements'. MANY times, we can order parts for machines, and have no idea what parts they decided to install on the machine that day. So when you try to match it up, it does not and never will fit or work with the replacement part. Or you have to use a new component group. Or you have to order parts OEM that your Chinese knock off is modeled after. I can think of some companies that made the same model machines for decades, like Pfaff, Singer, Adler, etc. You can get parts new that will go into and work on machines that are over 40 years old. Some of the new Chinese machines your lucky if you can order parts from the factory for last years model. Even if the parts are correct, they then have to be fitted, and you better know what your doing. I'm biting my lip here, and don't will not name names, but even some of the 'big' factories are doing this all the time, with new models showing up an others disappearing quickly. Just like factories, coming and going, in some cases.

I'll put my two cents in, and try to tackle this question. Allow me to say up front that this is not hard and fast rule, 100% accurate, but a general overview of how equipment is showing up new out of the box. I don't want to go into a history lesson taking things way back 30 years the way things were 'back in the day' that have little to no bearing on today's World, but we do have to have an idea of where we are coming from. Lets start about twelve years ago, before the real boom of Chinese machines coming in. Almost the majority of market was dominated byJapanese and German made machines. American made products were and are still part of the picture. Taiwan is also part of the picture,not to leave anybody out and before someone wants to publicly flog me. Let me say this; when they when the first Japanese machines first starting coming in, they DID have problems back in the mid to late '60s. But, they corrected them, they made improvements to design and manufacturing. The German stuff was a bit ahead of the curve new. Both ever since have been very stable, and consistent. The difference between a good and bad machine was almost indistinguishable; they were all really good. And tey are today, with good quality control. Now, with the Chinese, over the past eight years with a lot of machines coming in and being made,factories popping up left and right, it's is a mixed bag to say the least; quality is all over the place. There really is A, B, C quality, with different price points. Good machines may work out ofthe box, or need some setup, poor quality is kind of like "why did they even bother to put this into a box and send it?" Furthermore, some machine have the same problems out of the box they did eight years ago. There is spotty stability, or consistency; you can get a really good machine one time, the next time, you may need to spend quite a bit of time to get the machine properly setup. Often, as clearly stated all over the place here andon this thread, a great deal of setup and replacing new parts with good new parts is required if you are a dealer who stands behind your warranty. So, the gist of all of this; do you stand a better chance with out of the box machines from Germany / Czech Republic, Japan as opposed to say China? The short answer is yes, but it's really up to the individual on what they value and where thier money is going, the machine in question, their ability to means to setup properly, availbility ofreplacement parts, etc. Certain brand machines in some regions are easier to support than others. No hard and fast answers. Hope this helps, and ANYBODY feel free to elaborate on this post, poke holes in it, insult my mother because I hurt someone's feelings or whatever else you may feel the need todo after reading this. This is assuming yuou even made it this far. Thanks!

I just want to make sure I'munderstanding and reading this thread correctly; Outof the box untouched factory direct brand name Chinese equipment is BETTER today than out of the box factory direct Pfaff, Durkopp Adler and Singer? I'm reading comparisons for used German, Japanese & American made equipment vs. new out of the box brand names from China, am I correct? The ONLY reason I'm asking this is because I feel the original question of this thread is not being adequately responded to, and that is "What machine new out of the box factory direct is going to work." I know a machine is only as strong as who is setting it up (stand included) and supporting it, but that was not the question on the table. Not everybody has a sewing machine dealer who lives on thier block, so I do understand the basis of the question.

Nice!

269W machines are dead as a doornail. I have over 30 that need need to be thrown away. Good machine design, next to impossible to service. My father is an expert on repair and service of the 269W machines. Just try to get him to work on one! And that's the other problem, is finding somoene to work on these. Better to look at Singer 68/69 class machies, 3/4X3/4 56 stich patterns are most common. We sell these 'conversions' custom cam for less than the $2,500 used as is, so buyer beware.

Nice, glad to help. It's certainly a rare model, not many are even aware this model was even made.

Machine is NOT a 111W155; this model never had a reverse/back tack. It's a 111W156, quite a rare bird not many people know about, seen here; Singer 111W156

Just about every sewing machine manufacter worth thier salt has a walking foot cylinder bed machine. Adler is as good as any of them, but there are also other very fine choices as well. We just sold a new Juki LS-1341 that IMO was very impressive, very smooth and balanced, see here; Juki LS-1340 series

Yikes!

Singer 69 class bar tacker, commonly found on the belt loop of a piar of blue jeans.

Ferg, Good deal, let me know if I can be of any assistance installing your new reducer and needle plate. BTW...the reducer is the same one we have been sucessfully selling for years, but is not a three, but two speed, fixed. We get these from the same people who sell your Consew. Normally, this makes life a lot easer when it comes to install, and belts. Nobody I've worked with seems to change when installed, and your CSM-550 motor will provide great control. If this is not an item you don't think you can work with, please feel free to return it for full refund, no problems at all! Also, thanks for thinking of us for parts and accessories...even though we didn't sell to you your Consew 206RB-5 and CSM-550, that does not mean we don't want to sell you service, parts, and accessories! Thanks again!

My thoughts, after reading this thread, with a fresh set of eyes? I think you have two people who have handle on things doing thier best to assit you, and they both feel at this point someone who is qualified needs to have a look at the machine. A lot of sewing machine repiar involves see, touch, and feel in order to be able to properly repiar your machine. Good luck!

Well, we ALWAYS here when things do not go well, and RARELY hear when thing do. Glad to see there are still good people out there providing service and people who appreciate it.

Consew 202 parts I don't have owners.

Whoa, sorry if I came off as negative or upset in any way. Not my intention at all, and I'm very glad to see you having success with your machine. I'm just trying to be helpful and useful.

This is akin to entering a stock Honda Civic into a Monster Jam monster truck contest; sure you could do it, but I wouldn't recommend it! You are likely to either tear up that machine, or quit from the frustration of using the wrong tool for the job. It's none of my business, but I always wonder how people show up with equipment like this, especially with all of the fantastic recourses available here.

Max. stitch length is 5mm, anything more and you risk disrupting the feeding mechanism ,and may prevent it from functioning properly. As stated, this machine is best suited for very fine threads and materials, up to denim. Most commonly found in tailoring and alterations shops, dry cleaners, and the such. I would NEVER recommend this machine to a potential customer who is looking to do auto trim, or any type of canvas work. The sewing and feed mechanism is not sufficient.

Nakajima 280L? I haven't heard than name in a LONG time! Great machine, long repalced (must be over 20 years?) with the now discontinued Juki DNU-241, and now current model is a Juki DNU-1541 series.

I'm not so sure Juki DDL-5550N can handle 138 (or a 92 for that matter) no matter the needle size. I've been wrong in the past, but I'm pretty sure about this one. 69 of course does work well, of course.

Wow, that WAS quick!!!