albane

http://youtu.be/_OtfCvzm14A

http://savmorleather.com/

http://www.tina-messerfabrik.de/kunden_urteilen.html I use these blades

Snap setting can be tricky whether using a maul or a mallet. The trick to setting snaps if finesse and proper snap selection. Snap selection is easy the shank should not extend to far through the textile you are intending to set the snap in. . Otherwise you will be forced to over strike coincidentally bending the shank leading to poor results. Finesse is simple,Ttry to set your snap with a few soft blows rather than one powerful strike. This way we attain a nice roll over rather than bending the shank. Maul or mallet ? Its up to you. I tend to prefer a kick press but that opens up its own can of worms. Best of luck, Al Bane

I have that same machine. I'll take it for $150 in a snap To answer your question..... It would cost more to convert that machine than the machine is worth. If I were you I would buy it clean it up and find a client that needs lots of eyelets set. That machine will do the job it was set up for all day forever. If you don't want it can I please call dibs? Best of luck, Al Bane

http://savmorleather.com/ These guys have the tools you need.

Are we talking about part number 65-6522 through 65-6525 on page 297? http://www.leathersupply.com/downloads/catalog/Machinery&Equipment.pdf if so I have never seen or used that particular set up. It seems to me that if the spring that holds the spot in place is breaking then finding a better holder may be the answer. My machines use a vacuum to hold the spot in the upper die and are hand loaded one at a time. While loading one spot at a time may seem like a time consuming chore I can expect consistent results. This being said.... How to move forward and get back to spot setting? You said: "The current spot setter attachment I have right now (my 3rd) started bending spots today." Can you determine at what point are your spots bending? Can you operate the machine without loading the raceway and load one spot at a time? Would this prevent bending / damaging ? Is it possible to use the setter without the broken spring? If not why? There have been times when my vacuum was not working properly so I used a bit of tape on the inside of the die to make a snug fit and back to work I went. These may shed some light on the subject. Hope this helps, Al

What do you think is wrong with you machine? A little more information may help solve your problem. is it coming out of adjustment? or is it floating in mid air? (lol possessed get it ? sorry ) I'll check here in the am for your response. I hope I can help, Al.

Datgirl, You will need three layers of textile to achieve you goal. working from outer surface in A garment weight leather. A layer of open cell medium density foam. and a layer of cheap fabric I use a Spray adhesive to mount the cloth to the foam then the foam to the leather. the cloth helps prevent the stitching from cutting the foam and helps the composite slide through the sewing equipment. I use a pencil to trace my stitch path ( depending on how complicated the pattern) Have fun .

Sav-mor Leather 213-749-3468

Well.... I mis read the original post. At least the link i posted works I'll be busy Eating my Crow sandwich.... Sometimes ya just gotta laugh. sorry

Leatheroo, I scanned your code with my android phone and ....... IT WORKED!!!!! I went to your web page Thanks,

My die cutter charges me $30.00 / hour Al

looks like you may not have the bobbin threaded under the spring in the bobbin case. Check out page six http://consew.marginspluslive.com/images/products/pdf4/206rb5instr.pdf I hope this helps this helps.

Flash, Unfortunately the "just work" approach doesn't work. An experienced opprator will be constantly monitoring the equipment making small adjustments to things like thread tension and uniform feeding of the textiles. keeping the equipment in top working order becomes important because when the equipment stops so does the income. Constant preventive maintenance should become an ongoing habit not a burden. Respectfully, Al

Flash, The reality is that no one machine can do everything. Depending on the environment a cheep machine my outperform a high end piece of equipment. When I buy equipment I conciser the day to day requirements and buy a task specific unit. Your environment may be different but I would guess you are trying to do to many different things with one machine. Today I am replacing zippers in some motorcycle jumpsuits I set up three machines for this project. A flat bed for replacing the hook and loop fasteners that the manufacture installed through the shell and the lining. Two post bed machines one with 69 nylon for basting the linings to the zippers. The other for stitching the zippers through the shell with 138 nylon top and bottom. Each machine is set up for the task at hand. I spend a few min. making sure the equipment is properly calibrated. Proper needle selection, stitch length, stitch quality, thread and ergonomics. all factor in to setting up a good work environment. I could get away with one machine but I would have to sew in batches that would create work flow inefficiency. ie. baste all the zippers to the linings then change thread and stitch the zippers to the shells. The unfortunate reality is that smaller shops have a limited amount of resources and may have to settle with a less than optimal configuration. I would recommend looking closely at your production needs and try to find trends in your workflow. This way you can identify tasks that my be best served with a task specific equipment choice. Best of luck, Al PS.You can't lose with Cobra Steve and The leather Machine company.

I never laughed so hard in my life. Thank you,

I Love That New Baby Smell. If you need a sitter I have 3 of my own, so feel free to reach out. congrats,