Ferg

I visited Peter Main's site several times lately, do not see any modeler for sale. Does he still have the "Best Modeling tool" available? Where can I get one? ferg

My following comments are in no way trying to be picky or chastising in any way, please do not take offense. My youngest daughter, she is 25 years young, likes the skulls, dragons, extreme art, etc. I am an old codger and I simply do not get it. Can anyone tell me what is going through your mind when you design this sort of thing? When I was a kid growing up we would have been locked up if we even drew these images on a piece of paper I am honestly interested in where the inspiration comes from. I try to understand almost everything in this world of ours, politicians excepted. ferg

Kathy, I too have transferred images onto leather and most everything else I find the easiest to use is OEM Laser Printer on to transfer paper and then onto leather. I also have used white Doe Skin, Tandy carries it. The images on the Doeskin are fabulous. ferg

Anyone tried/used 32 OZ. FIEBING WAX BURNISHING INK? Description would indicate a good product for edges. LCi only sells their products through distributors. They gave me a list of several but only the phone numbers. So far I haven't found any that carry the edge ink etc. ferg

My thought was concerning the stitch line being so close to the fold line, that was the only concern I had. If the cover is opened and closed often that stitch line could cause a problem. ferg

Looks nice but I cannot see it very well, photos are too small ferg

I am guessing here so...... I believe you may need to grind the edge into it's original shape. If you do not have a set-up for a grinder that you can do this, please take it to a sharpening shop and tell them exactly what you want. When that is done use a strop every time you are going to cut some leather/"used thread." ferg

I am replying to my original post, well you know how it is with old folks I bought a pricking iron. One I received is for stitches a lot wider than I like. Decided to stitch a notebook cover using the marking wheel that Tandy sells. I had practiced some with holding the awl at the correct angle or to the angle providing the look I wanted. Stitched the entire cover without the pricking iron, probably will never use the cotton pickin thing. ferg

Nice work Tim. I have one possible concern with your method of construction. Seems you have a "wear" area at the fold with stitching. That may present a problem down the road. An inside photo or explanation for your construction may be helpful. ferg

I know nothing of "Mule Hide" but I tend to agree completely with Steven. That said: I am using some "Horse Butts" From Steven that tool like butter and have a very tight grain. I used to use the shells for wallets etc. but they are too pricey these days for my pocket. I have not dyed any of the Horse Hide I have as yet, I really hate to do that since it has so much character. I am sure your Dad would be more than pleased with this leather. The Horse Butts are long enough to cut belts. Good cost factor also. ferg

I have made three note book covers in recent days and have been quite dissatisfied with all of them. Didn't like the way they folded etc. In a passive mood I sent Bob Park a note asking him what methods he used for making his covers, I am sure he won't object to my placing this information on the site for everyone to peruse. hidepounder said: ====================================================================== Ferg, I usually use 6/7 oz leather for the leaves and 4/5 oz for the binding. I then build the binding up with one or two pieces of 6/7 oz to make it stiff. The build up is tapered at about 45 degrees away from the fold. So if I have a 1-1/2" ring binder, my build up will start at about 2" wide and taper in to about 1-3/4". Additionally I add a 4 mil to 6 mil stiffener to the binding (between the build up) and the leaves before covering everything with the 2/3 oz lining. I hold back the stiffeners and the built up portion of the binding so that there is a good 1/4" area to create the fold. I find I get a much better result by building up the 4/5 oz binding rather than grooving 6/7 oz or heavier leather, however it does require more work. I just cannot get a groove to be as smooth and uniform in depth and width as I can by building up the 4/5 oz binding. Additionally I skive the overlap (where the binding and leaf overlaps) so that there is a smooth transition through the fold for the lining to lay in. That must be done prior to sewing the binding to the leaves and prior to installing teh lining. The lining goes in as one piece with the pockets and loops, etc., all sewn to it. I have tried gluing all the way through the fold and leaving the fold unglued and I still get some wrinkling at the fold so I'm not sure which way is best. Bobby

Nice work. You done well on your horses. ferg

i cannot say enough about your work. Any fine lady would love that purse, would always be displayed where everyone could see it. ferg

I have a significant number of these key rings I wish to sell, no minimum. Gold/brass finish on heavy cast metal with a 28mm round indention for glueing a piece of leather that has 3D impression, makers mark, your own design. I am sure most everyone could think of many designs/stampings for the leather disc. Overall length is 3", diameter of ring for keys is 1 - 7/16". Outside diameter of display pad is 1 - 3/16". These would make a great handout for shows or just to give to special customers. Price per item not including the leather disc - $1.50 to members on LEATHERWORKER.NET. I do not own a "Clicker". I would prefer to not supply the leather discs but that may depend on interest for this item. I can supply small quantities of leather discs to fit this piece.

The design is not my cup of tea but I can and do admire excellent work. Thanks for sharing. ferg

Peter, You may tire of folks saying nice things about your work I sit in admiration of your dedication to your craft. ferg

Your photos would be much better if they are about 6 or 7 inches wide x say, five inches in height at 72 pixels per inch. Know nothing about the program you are using but it seems you should be able to do that, much easier for everyone to view. ferg

Different strokes for different folks but I think you are going at it backwards. I can think of ways why dyeing and finishing first would be a bad idea. Try it with a small piece, see what you think when that is finished ferg

Welcome to the site. I am sure you are not the only one wishing to have plain leather on your product. Personally I go in the middle, I am not real fond of the entire piece tooled but I do like some tooling. Look around in the archives, you will probably see many pieces you like. ferg

Holly, I have the Al Stohlman book mentioned below. It has lots and lots of Oak leaf patterns, certainly they could find something they like in this book. ferg

I have been making a notebook cover. Hand stitching of course. Due to the length and width of the piece it is impossible to place it in my "normal" size stitching horse. Considered revamping the small horse but decided to build an entire new one. It is 28" high with the clamp length of 19". I used a piece of 3/4" plywood for the bottom making it long enough so when sitting in a comfortable chair I can place my feet on the end towards me. First image is the side towards me. I used two "quick" clamps, fastened them with a screw so they stay put. Second image is the back side. I can hold the leather piece I am working on in my hand while reaching around the side to tighten the clamp. Works like a charm. Changing clamps isn't a problem since I only need to do it one time when sewing the long side of the cover. I used lumber I had in the shop. No finish and no sanding, strictly utility. If anyone is interested in building one let me know.

Now that is my kind of Workmanship. You done a fabulous job with this. Question? Did you make the leather look like silver or is that just the photography ferg

I will certainly keep you in mind, Thanks. ferg

Chris, I realized there were other companies available. I was simply offering info on small pieces at a reasonable cost. ferg

For those of you that would like to use Stainless Steel bar stock for making your own tools here is a URL for a company that has no minimum. You can buy a 12" piece if you like. They also have explanations of each type. https://www.onlinemetals.com/index.cfm ferg