Ferg

Mid-Continent has two different ones. About $100. There is Japanese character that has them on e-bay but they are shipped from Japan. They would probably be over $100. Abbey Leather in UK has Dixon. They are about the same price as Mid-Continent by the time you pay all the shipping. The tools I am referring to are Pricking Irons. You do not punch the leather all the way through with them. They are for marking so you can hold the awl at the exact angle and spacing. Different tools for different spacing. ferg

I am not trying to sell these but thought some of you might just like to see some exceptional grip carving that my son-in-law does. Last I checked he was booked about 3-6 months ahead. Gosh! I almost forgot, I wrote the web site for him. http://www.classiccarvedgrips.com/ ferg

They obviously have great pricing. How is the over all quality? Does it tool and mould well? ferg

Welcome to the site. There is lots of information here for everyone. If that sewing machine you bought is in good working order you got a bargain, I think. ferg

Don't get your shackles up. LOL Read my posting again. Constructive criticism! I told him to keep trying, I guess you didn't read that part. I can relate to your "carpentering". I was a building contractor for 50 years. My teaching made a lot of carpenters and builders into fine men without slobbers. ferg

Folks, this is what I call excellent rendition, design, and selection of stain color. ferg

Please understand, I am not nit-picking. Skippy needs to work on carving, stamping, etc. If everyone told skippy the work was great, what do you think that would accomplish? I have helped many young and old begin their leather crafting, telling someone they are doing fine when they aren't "Just Don't Get It" ferg

I believe you may be trying to transfer your pattern while the leather is either too wet or not cased. Are you casing your leather first? If you need some instruction on casing there are quite a few discussions for that on this board. Be careful when you trace the pattern. Use a small rounded stylus and move your hand in easy, even strokes. when you do your cutting with the swivel knife, follow your lines very closely. Unfortunately, you need more than one background stamp as in, different shapes for instance. You are allowing your stamp to cross the cut lines into another part of your design. Look at the edges, see where you crossed over. Some places you actually didn't stamp the entire background space. The pointed backgrounder you have is great for getting the pattern into pointed areas but it does not do a good job in larger spaces. You need a rectangular backgrounder for the larger areas. Don't "over stamp" your design. I mean you have too many impressions of your mule foot and veiner. Sometimes it looks much better if you don't get too carried away. On the left hand side of your image, you have used a pear shader twice on the pattern that should not be there. The same info applies to any and all of your stamps. Use some scrap leather to practice a design, just a small area is good. Practice holding the stamps vertically and don't squeeze them so hard that your fingers get stiff. Relax! Use good lighting. One more thing: Don't force yourself to do major projects until you have more stamping tools and experience. Practice, practice, practice. You never have enough. I am sure many professional leather crafters will tell you they practice before doing a large new project especially when there are new techniques to be used. There are many folks here to help you with more technical experience than I have, do not hesitate to ask questions. ferg

Constructive criticism has gotten me through a lot of trouble when building commercial cabinets to stamping/working leather. Uneven transferring of your pattern. I see wrong size backgrounding tools Less than great swivel knife use Uneven stitching holes. Four weeks into leather working does not make a craftsman that can readily carve and produce a set of holsters for sale. YOu need instruction. If you do not have someone close to give you instruction grab every book you can find and absorb them cover to cover. Everyone had to start somewhere and I doubt if any had salable product after four weeks. Keep at it, six months down the road you are going to look back and wonder what you were thinking. Been there, done that, believe me. ferg

Mike, I didn't have a problem with that. It may have been slightly off center but the file trued the space just fine.. ferg

For a cheapy. Check this out: http://www.namepuzzles4kids.com/burnishing.html ferg

This little tool would be easy for anyone to make that has a drill press. Please do not try to hold a Hand Drill and use this. Tool is primarily to show how most anyone on this site can make a Burnisher to let them see how easy any of the fine wooden burnishers several of you are making can be used. Feel free to add any and all additions/comments. Oak is a good wood to burnish most any soft material since it is relatively abrasive. You could apply paraffin or beeswax to the spindle I suppose, I didn't try that yet. Lowe's has a bin with dowels and a few finials. This little guy was really expensive, two for $1.88. I used a rat tail file measuring 3/16" to 5/16" in the fat part to increase/round the already turned areas of the finial. You could make the groove whatever size you need. DO NOT press real hard, you might break the screw bolt chucked into the drill. Since I haven't figured out how to get my images into this site as yet I simply done a little web page with the photos. I am sure someone will have questions, maybe about my sanity but fire away. Site Address: http://www.namepuzzles4kids.com/burnishing.html The attachment doesn't work either so just access the web page above. ferg burnishing.html

I have had less than stellar results with several companies listed on this site. Lady at Springfield didn't have a clue as to what a Pricking Chisel was. After asking if they had them she came back to phone, still no idea. Siegle has chosen to ignore my e-mail query of several days ago I guess. ABBEY hasn't responded for two days with a log-in for me. (They did accept my registration). Quite a number of Company web sites are old as the hills, one has not been updated since 2006. Many are missing photo images of most of their tools. I am sorry for the rant but if we conducted our business this way there wouldn't be any. I understand a lot of folks were at a leather show, isn't there anyone left behind to take care of the store? I understand that Bob Douglas makes some excellent tools. I ordered awls and a haft last week knowing they would not return until sometime this week, hope I get those items soon. You cannot contact Bob via telephone except for one hour two different days of the week. I know what being busy means, evidently there isn't anyone left behind for him that can answer many questions. The awl order was taken by a very sweet lady that appeared to know what she was talking about however. BTW: Lonnie answered my query when returning from a show. ALSO: I have learned a lot from just browsing the forum, thanks to everyone. ferg

We use a CNC in our wood shop, Vacuum pump for the table has a ten horse three phase motor, it will maintain 15 to 25 inches of vacuum on a 2' x 4' table. I am dying to try forming some leather on this. LOL My understanding is that you must leave it in the vacuum for at least over night or about 24 hours so the leather can dry completely. ferg

My only problem with these punches? My hand got insanely sore when punching a lot:) ferg

Gary, Thanks for the info. I have done quite a bit of research the last couple days. i did know about the stitches etc. The metric configuration some sites give do not make much sense:) There are several companies in England that have the tools and I don't think they are overpriced if they are good tools, 23 to 43 pounds ($35 to $50 USD plus VAT and shipping) depending on width. Problem? Some evidently do not ship to US. If anyone knows if Bob Douglas makes these I would like to know any information you may have. They are at a show until sometime next week. I seldom buy the cheapest tools, much to my wife's chagrin, but I normally do not buy the most expensive either. ferg

I have a combination of problems with my hand stitching. First of all, I love to do hand stitching. When correct it is beautiful. My old eyes are so full of "floaters" plus the normal aging, I need every help I can get. I never had heard of Pricking Irons or wheels until by happenstance the other day. Personally I think it would speed my stitching and improve the ability to keep the stitches at the proper angle etc. There is a Japanese company that these tools keep appearing in from many links, I have no intention of ordering from somewhere that requires a month and a half to receive tools. Have no idea what the quality is either. I understand that the good irons are actually made in England at $150.00, have seen them for as much as $300.00 if you buy left and right, seems a little redundant to me. Seems I read somewhere that Bob Douglas makes these also but do not know that for sure. My primary question is in regard to their usefulness. Would they make it easier for an old guy that has less than good eye sight or should I stick with practicing? Would also like to know if the C S Osborne that is available for about $45 is any good and why it is only shown in one size/spacing? Some are listed as: 6 x 2.5mm. Is that prong length of 6mm and spacing of 2.5mm? If the spacing is only 2.5mm, that is very close stitches. Appreciate any and all information. ferg

I have not seen every post about this company but what I did find were posted in '07. Is there nothing new on them? As in-Have they ever gotten a Web-Site On-Line?