Beaverslayer

On my lacing I use a lace roller just to make the lace lay down better wher it goes into the holes. Ken

Here's the seat with the tooling done. I should be getting the pan tomorrow, so once I'm finished I'll upload more pics. Ken

Thanks a lot freak. It took a bit more than 3 hours to lace. I have just finished the tooling of the snake and skulls, so as soon as the batteries are charged up, I'll upload a pic of that. Ken

Looks great Dave, don't dye it black. The way it is now realy blends into the "Smoke Out" theme. Ken

Beezachopper gave me this idea. He asked how I did it on a hat brim, and said he wanted to try it on a seat. So I tried it myself, and took pics along the way to explain how it's done. I hope you enjoy. And Beeza, I think with your talent you will be able to create a seat that will be worth that $1800.00 you mentioned in another post. Use an odd number of laces. Start on the bottom of your piece, and pull lace through until the tail is short enough to cross over to the other side holes. Glue the tails down. On the front side you now have your 5 laces. From the starting point, count 5 holes on the outer side of holes, and pull each lace trough to back. Here you see how the lace starts on the front. Then go back one hole and pull your lace trough to the front. One the front, pull your lace one at a time. Start by going UNDER then OVER, etc. Then through the hole. On the starting leg, be sure to leave the first hole empty. You will pull the first lace through the 7th. hole from where you started. This shows you to go back and through the hole, to the front. Here's what the finished weave looks like. You can use your imagination and come up with all sorts of different patterns. By using more laces you can make a tighter weave as well. This is the backside showing the splices that I make. I only pull about 4' of lace at a time, this makes it a whole lot easier to work with, as your laces are'nt getting all tangled together. Well I hope this helps, and if you have any questions...feel free to ask. Ken

Hey Busted, Looks real good, I like the "Rat Fink" reminds me of my youth. The inner tube, does it come with a valve stem? Ken

It's all about the name attached to the work. One day Beeza we will have that name as well, just keep doing what your doing. It only takes one sale to the right person, and viola....you will have the name required to charge that. Ken

Hey freak, Yes you still have to rivet it to the pan, as the leather on the underside is still loose and will flap in the wind. Thanks for the compliment freak and beeza Ken

J, Do you have one of these brass plates in hand, that you are going to use? I would suspect that the Antique ones were fastened by bending a small tab down that was inserted through a slot. But a picture of the actual plate you want to use would help. Ken

Well here's the finished Display Seat. I had to use 1/8" roo lace on it as Tandy or any of the other suppliers here carry the 1/4". All that's left is the rivets on the underside and she'll be done. I'm thinking of making a plexi-glas stand for it t6hat can gold say 3 seats for display purposes. Ken

They look real good Beeza, I especially like the lettering on the Dragon bag. Ken

Dave, Beautiful as always Dave, I do think you have a winner there. The Horse Head is VERY cool. By the way, have you tried using a "Perma-Lock" needle yet? Ken

Those are just amazing saddles. I really like the Jim Bean, the way it is highlighted, very nice. Thanks for sharing. I would still be interested in knowing the differance between Sheridan, California, and Arizone. Ken

Steve, I want to know how you get the photo in the thread like you did? On the thread note though. I'm with Johanna, I would really like to see pics and descriptions of the different styles I've read about. Eg: California, Arizona, Sheridan and how exactly do you tell one from the other. Ken

Thank you Don and Shirley for the compliments. Don, no I didn't design it, I found the drawing in a Google search for Dragons. Then I went to my tandy store and found a new book all about Dragons and how to draw them and detail them. I think I'm going to buy it next time. Ken

Here's the seat after 5 hours of cutting and pounding....tomorrow I should have it done and ready for lace. Ken

Why are you the beaver slayer? Well it's a name that was given to me a while back by this crazy guy I knew. We were discussing the size a Beaver grows to, and a lady was eaves dropping and took what we were talking about the wrong way.... So, hence the name came from this ladies comments, and my friends interpretation. The name stuck, and I decided to call the business "Beaverslayer Custom Leather". Ken

Thats beautiful work David, and I love the color. Ken

Very nice work, and by looking closely at the clock...I see it's coffee time. I really like the clock, the Celtic knotting makes it look very distinctive. Ken

Morning David, Thanks for the compliment. It is going to be a display that I can take to shows and bike shops. The pan is made oof aluminium, and doesn't have any mounting hardware, just a small 1/4" nutsert for mounting on a plexiglas base. As to the holes, the marks you see in the pic are just marks for spacing the holes. They will be further in from the edge when punched. I'll be using 1/8" roo lace. Ken

Hello All, Here's the start of the new display bike seat I'm working on. Ken

Hi J, Sorry about not answering sooner...had a flood in the basement. I use just a simple X stitch when I lace the hats. You can see it in the attached picture. Ken

Hello, When I make a hat or vest (vest woth 3/5oz garment leather) all the seams are butted together, they don't overlap at all. What I do is, I glued the but edges together then on the backside I will glue a strip of pigskin suede that is 5/8" wide over the seam. Then I can punch my holes for lacing from the finished side, keeping the rows 1/2" apart, or 1/4" from the seam line on either side. When it is laced together, the front is secured by the overlapping and crossing of the lace, on the backside it is secured by the pigskin "gusset" if you will. I've attached a picture of the inside of a hat. You can see somewhat the idea of the gusset for lacing. Ken

Hey Soybomb, I had the same problem as you with the cell phone cases. What I did was I took a small piece of "Maple" wood and my dremel and I basically shaped the wood to look like the cell phone. This took about an hour, but now as I make more I get a collection of all the different phones. Then I can wet the piece of 5/6 oz. and using small spring clamps and some thin strips of wood, I clamp it down over the wooden mold. Thus when it's dried its a very close match to the phone. I always leave about 3/4 to 1" of overhang from the sides of the phone, that way once it's stiched I can just cut off the excess. And depending on the type of phone, I've even used 9 oz as the back. In most cases though it's the same 5/6 oz for the whole case. Good Luck Ken

Again, a beautiful job. You will have to change your Leatherwork Specialty from "learning" to "top quality" chaps & leather carving. Great work. Ken