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Everything posted by Skald
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Thanks for the words of wisdom, as always. alb: Unfortunately, I don't have a camera (embarrassing, I know). But I attach a picture of the ornament thingie itself, the erroneous cut is drawn in red. It really torments me, as I am finally starting to get a proper work with the swivel knife in other ways, then I fool myself like this hahahaha... I think I'll practice Leatherimages suggestion on some scrap bits. I have a problem to see how to solve this "geometrically", best thing I can do otherwise is to hope it's hard to spot.
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I was carving this quite complicated knot motif yesterday, and the same second I made one of the cuts, I realized it shouldn't be there. It's not the end of the world, as it is towards the end where the pattern makes it hard to tell I made a mistake. But, what to you do if you happen to make an error to an otherwise really successful carving? Throw it away or use it for scrap leather? Or do you hope no one will notice, or do you happen to know a way to "hide" the mistake?
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Vinagroon Questions
Skald replied to Vikefan's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thanks for the input. I made a batch today, and could not stay clear of it, and tried dipping a small piece of scrap leather in it already after about an hour. I let it soak for like slightly less than 60 seconds, and it was well on it's way to go black already. It was like "coffee brown" on the upper part, a little "blue'ish" in the middle, and shady black at the bottom. I didn't add any coffee or tea, at least not yet. Seems that particular leather has enough of tannin already. I'll probably use the 'groon on monday, and I expect it to have even more power by then. -
Vinagroon Questions
Skald replied to Vikefan's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thank you folks. I am actually about to set a 'groon (noticed that people seem to spell it in a lot of different ways!) batch today and try out both ways, of course just on small scrap bits for a starter. Because my name is "overkill", I think about adding some strong coffee and strong tea to the batch, I heard that more tannins make the 'groon work more effectively. Of course there are tannins in the leather itself, but a little help might be good, besides it should add some color too. And if I am happy, it ends up having a little aroma of tea and coffe, and and not only vinegar. LOL -
I saw this holster http://pixelperfect.smugmug.com/photos/686440154_kyR5W-L.jpg
It's very well done! About that "extra piece of leather" at the upper part of it, seems you added it *after* the wet forming? I am thinking of making a holster very similar to this one, but with some similar "extra part" with leather carving, and I guess it will be ruined if I put it the...
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Vinagroon Questions
Skald replied to Vikefan's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
A stupid question here: If I use vinegroon to dye leather, should I make the carving/tooling before or after the dye process? I have some doubts the tooling will remain "intact" after sinking into first the dye liquid, and then baking soda solution to neutralize the vinegroon. -
vinegroon??
Skald replied to Tkleather1's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
I'll make another dog collar some day soon, I'll just have to put up some wallpaper in the living room first. Then I'll try to "paint" with vinegroon, if it proves not successful, I'll just soak it completely and paint the areas I intended to have in another color with acrylic colors. I suppose they are able to cover those small pars with a satisfying result, as I have found them to have quite good covering abilities. Anyway, I'll try to remember to let you know how the result was, might be good for others to know as well. -
vinegroon??
Skald replied to Tkleather1's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Is it possible to successfully "paint" with this vinegroon mixture? Or is it more of a "soak to dye" method? I have had some problems to get things for hard use keep it's dye over time. Never tried vinegroon at all, and I wonder if I can apply it on details like with ordinary dye? -
I have done it in two different ways, depending on purpose. I applied several layers of dye, and let it dry well between the layers. Then I took a soft cloth, and virtually rubbed the h*ll out of it, that removed the excess dye quite well. Then I have either "sealed" it with Resolene, or used a traditional Swedish leather treatment called "Ekololja". With the leather treatment thing, I have also applied it several times, rubbing it quite a lot. And it seems that the rest of they dye that was supposed to "go" did go with that treatment. Then, some dye always seem to rub off during the first period when it's new. But it if keeps going away, and the color gets paler and paler, something is wrong. Either the leather doesn't respond well to the dye, or you have to treat it some way after dyeing.
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I am about to try out two new projects, one is a kind of small wallet, and the other thing is a kind of replica leather helmet. The wallet I have in mind, should be similar to this one: http://www.koyono.com/Slimmy-Slim-Wallet-Alternative-p/m17546.htm Does anyone have an idea of what kind of leather this is? I tried some two different kinds I have, one was obviously too thick, and the other one was too soft, or how to put it (it didn't keep it's shape, and folded outwards when stuffed into a pocket). The first type was cowhide, the other one was reindeer (no, I am no sami). Anyway, it should be a quite thin kind of leather, but at the same time quite stiff it seems. The other thing is an "on demand" thing, namely a viking helmet. It's for display only (in a tattoo studio), and won't (hopefully) see any swordfight or prevent any arrows from piercing someone's head. It should be somewhat similar to this one: http://leatherhelms.com/mod/pga/files/img_1011.jpg, but a little different model. I guess it should be some sort of a little" harder" leather? Then wet-formed and then left to dry. I am supposed to attach some panels with leather carving to it (once it's dry and finished I guess), to make it a notable display piece. In any case, I am quite clear about the manufacturing process, but I don't know what leather to use here either. The thing is, I will most likely order leather for both these projects from Tandy in England (as it is way cheaper than here in Sweden), so I would be REALLY glad, if someone could offer me some advice - and preferably refer to specific product names on the Tandy Leather Factory we page, so that I know that I get the right stuff - and don't have to place another order as soon as it arrives. If someone has any suggestions for another retailer with similar (or better, of course) prices that ship abroad, that's of course welcome too. I ordered quite a lot of leather from Tandy a while ago, and was very pleased with both the products and the service, that's why I think f them first and foremost. I am finally starting to get the hold of things now, and it's mostly thanks to all of you boys and girls, that have patiently answered all my stupid n00b questions here, and I hope you can help me this time as well. You are the best, honestly.
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Not a bad idea. I'll visit a shoe guy next time I go to town, he might have something to sell me from "under desk". I know that there are some restrictions here on stuff that's not so healthy and environmental friendly, sadly enough that's most often the stuff that works best as well (in most things). Only "professionals" are allowed to buy those products considered to be for industrial use or whatever.
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Thank you, that straightens out a lot. I haven't really tried the packing tape thing, I'm the kind of guy who tool first, and then cut the exact shape, at least this far. Isn't the tape likely to sort of "loose its grip", when the leather gets wet? Casey Jordan: I hear you are not familiar with Sweden. To be honest, I don't think soviet Russia had any worse supply on those a little more "odd" products. In best case, you can find some of the brands you got in some mail order business, for like three times of the prices over there, then add Swedish postage which isn't much lower than ordering from abroad. Yes, I am a cheapskate, but I am also poor hahahaha... dirtclod: Thanks for that, I'll try to spot them. It's rare to find a forum as helpful as this one, and I am really glad I found it, and hope I can return the favor some day.
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I am about to buy cement, specifically two sorts: One for stamping etc. i.e. "glue" it to a plexi glass (to avoid deformation), so that I can't detach it from the surface afterwards. And one for permanent bounding. I get all confused when I try to look at what is for what purpose. I'll buy it from eBay, and even though many of them (most) does not ship abroad (due to restrictions for flammable liquids etc.), some still do. I can't find any of this in Scandinavia, at least not the bounding kind, and prices here in general are horrific. I have understood that Barge's cement is among the better ones, and I thought I should get these two cements of that brand. But, it seems to be like half a dozen different cement compounds for the same purpose, so I hope someone could help me point out what I should have, so I don't end up with to quarts for the same purpose in the end. If possible, I would love to see pictures of the two different sorts I need, as even the name seems to be quite the same (just the color of the label seems different).
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Just Collars...dog Collars
Skald replied to buffalobill plus Ed D's topic in Collars, Cuffs, Leashes and Leads
Thank you a lot! You just saved my life, or at least helped me making things a lot better. Hehe, yeah. My girlfriend hired a basement apartment in a Turkish family's house some year ago, and the bathroom was all "bling", with such golden rings on all drawers, as towel hangers and so forth. Too bad they hated dogs, otherwise you would have an order coming. -
Just Collars...dog Collars
Skald replied to buffalobill plus Ed D's topic in Collars, Cuffs, Leashes and Leads
Nice indeed. Even though I find the "ring" thing for fastening the leech a little too "turkish bathroom" for my personal taste. Especially the one with the red exotic looking inlay, is really nice. As someone already pointed out. The one with golden studs is pretty awesome too. Looking at the holes you made for the prongs, they look rather oblong than round, how did you make them? I have seen others like this too. I can't find any oblong hole punch that small. All I find is round ones. -
Does this glue have any sort of brand name, or product type name? Does it stiff leather up? Most cements claim they don't, and as I will use kind of thick leather, it would be good if it didn't stiff it up all too much. I am used to dealing with not so healthy fumes from casting brass and so forth, so ventilation awareness isn't a problem really, but thank you for pointing that out.
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Looks really nice. The cement in question is probably the kind that for example Tandy sells under the name "Tanners Bond Contact Cement", right? Fiebing's has a "Leathercraft cement" too, and I usually find Fiebing's stuff to be among the best. So I'll probably stick to that I guess.
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Overkill is my middle name. What sort of cement (preferably brand name) would you suggest for this use? I have understood that there are like two different kinds, one that can be torn apart pretty easy, and one that really makes it stick together. I'll of course stitch the two layers together, but I think of the middle in between the stitches so to say.
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I am about to make some dog collars, the wide model (about 2"), with a double prong roller buckle. I have solved most parts for the design, however not the holes for the prongs or what you call them over there. At first I thought about using some eyelets/grommets for the holes, but I get the feel that it's a thing that won't last and stand the pressure in the extent. I could of course just punch some simple hole and be glad with it, but this is meant to be made of two layers of leather, and even though I'll cement them together, I fear that they'll split sooner or later, and that the prongs might be prone to stick in between the two layers of leather instead of going through as they should. So, they question is: How do I do it? I think about just lowering some stitch line around the hole, and simply stitch around it, some mm outside the hole, to avoid the two layers to split, is that a good idea? I think I have seen horse gear made that way. Any opinions?
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Thanks to all of you for your ideas and suggestions, much appreciated. Actually, when I and my father was looking through some Swedish mailorder companies for leather supplies, and compared their prices to the ones abroad, we could clearly see that there would certainly be room for "competition". Sweden should really have some decent alternative too, ordering from abroad shouldn't be necessary, just to avoid paying more than double the price. My father is already running a business quite closely connected to this, so maybe I could encourage him to take a close look at this opportunity.
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Never thought of that possibility really, this requires some further investigation. I have some friends in Belgium and Germany, that might prove helpful. Anybody tried of the hides from Belgium or Germany? If they are any good for carving etc. that is.
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I am also looking out for a place to buy leather, and first and foremost from USA. The reason is the horrible prices here in Sweden, you'll have to pay more than double the prices you have there, for the exact same type of hides (Herman Oak for example). Then there's postage too, and it's not much cheaper to pay for postage inside Sweden, than it is to order from abroad. Sick, really. I know. So, does anyone have any recommendations about what company/companies I should order from, that handles international orders well? I am thinking about ordering from Springfield Leather right now, I have heard nothing but kind words about them. I'll probably order like +25 sq. feet of leather, maybe even double that for a starter, depending on the conditions. I would want some standard cheapest possible shipping alternative, as delivery time is less important than price for me at the moment. I really would like to get a trustworthy and smooth working source to buy leather from, as I'll most likely start to order quite regularly ahead. Some retailers seems to have a problem to deliver internationally due to tax and custom issues, but again - some doesn't make an issue about that.
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Checkbook Cover
Skald replied to Studio-N's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Looks very different, in a good way. How did you get that metallic "shine" all over it? Is it the gold frost highlighter thing? Would look nice for making something for various gadget cases etc. Does the finish stick on well, or does it tend to rub off? Did you use something to seal/finish it with some final layer? The lacing looks really nice too, great work. -
Thanks, I'll look up those numbers. And yes, I have tried out the background tool a little, and I am somewhat "perfectionist", so I first used extra care in trying to overlap the stamping marks just like 0,5-1 mm, and then looked it through really close, and carefully stamped down any tendency to uneven surface/borders from the first stamping session. I almost covered the whole area again, but not striking as hard as the first time. I begin to realize that it's "a part of the job", I just wanted to make sure I wasn't stupid, and doing something completely unnecessary.
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rickeyfro: It looks like there are shapes there I haven't really even seen before, I will be sure to look it up, and just hope he ships internationally too. I would easily pay more for quality tools if they do the job accordingly. Thanks. pete: Hmm, I think I understand what you mean. So the only solution is really to punch, punch and punch with the intended background tool, to both lower the surface and get it textured? I feel a bit sorry for some people, when I think of leather armors and similar things that I have seen - that's quite some work they have done then! But on the other hand, I guess there's no way around when it comes to more traditional handicraft. It's not that I am too lazy for using background tool instead of a larger matting tool, if that's the way the work is done to get a good result, I guess that's what I should stick to. tina: Åter tack, bilden blir en fin hjälp för jämförelse.