steve mason

Thanks for the help. Steve

Howdy; I tryed to put an avatar photo on today with no luck, any idea how to resize a photo so that it could be used? with my limited computer skills I could not figure out how to do it. here is the photo I am trying to use.

howdy Bob; The maker is Bob Jolly, he did make some nice knifes over the years, I believe that he still makes a few round knifes, although he mostly is making hunting type knife nowadays. I do not have his contact info but if you Call Stan Groff Saddley in High River, Ab he can get you the contact info, Stan and Bob are very good friends. Stan quite often has a knife or two from Bob for sale in his shop. Steveh; These are a different knife that Bob is talking about. The Linemans (spelling) were usually marked LBL if I remember right, (I am in the house not the shop so I can't look at the knife to see for sure what the markings are) they were also very nice round knifes. Some of the best round knifes I have seen and use are knifes by Bill Buschman, I could dig up his contact info if you are interested. Steve

I have also been wanting to try this for quite a while. I have been looking for the right deal on a rope making machine for a number of years now. If anyone could send me in the right direction to find one I would appreciate it much. A few years back I made a saddle for a guy who had a rope making machine and had made a few twisted reatas, we had plans to make a couple together but then he moved on so we never got the chance. I've been wanting to build one ever since. I would also like to braid one someday.

howdy; I quite often have a look at the saddles for sale on ebay, usually just a bunch of junk on there, but some times there are some good looking rigs, and sometimes some very interesting rigs on there also. I always like to see photos of other makers saddles, there is always something that I can learn from the photos and it is just kind a fun to see all types of well made saddles. Here are a few of the saddles listed on ebay today that I found interesting, including one that I made. (I have no interest or connection in selling any of these saddles) It seems like not all the links are working, so I put the ebay item # up also. Not sure why the links don't work, but this is not the first time I've been outsmarted by this damn computer. ray hunt saddle item # 180194453083 This is one of the saddles that I made while working for Harwood. We were under contact to build these saddles in our shop which Ray hunt took to his clinics and sold them there. These saddles were made to Dales specifications, using his methods and patterns. Building these saddles was an opportunity of a lifetime. I will be forever grateful for the learning experience. big bend/Scott brown item # 250197160776 here is a very interesting mother hubbard style saddle by Scott brown scott brown basket stamped item # 250197153279 A nice clean basket stamped rig from Scott brown. nevada saddle co. item # 110204945658 A neat rig from Matt Plumlee, I would like to try the flat plate ring riggin sometime, I always use 777's on my plate riggins, but I like the look of the ring, I do wonder a little about side soring a horse with the big rings a little though. mother hubbard item # 250196434996 another mother hubbard saddle made by E.J. Strummer. I have not seem many mother hubbard saddles with a swell fork before. this maker is from alberta, I don't recall hearing his name before, anyone else hear of him?

nice rawhide work on that headstall. overall the only critique is about the cinch on your horse, for the horses sake try a mohair cinch instead of plastic, he will thank you for it.

I was pretty sure that qoute came from Augustus McCrae.

"Nos Hoc Capio Sus Greg" Me don't understand???

Sorry, I can't help you with how to build this saddle. But I would like to offer some advise that was given to me years ago buy a very talented and experienced saddle maker. you will be building this saddle with your name stamp on it (which carries with it your reputation), therefore you should only use trees and materials that are up to your high standards, not the customers standards. If you build this rig on this gimmick tree, and it does not work out, all the customer will remember is that you made the saddle and it does not work, she will have forgotten that it was her tree that was the original problem. Everything I make has my name on it, so I will not build anything using poor quality materials. Just last week a potential customer came to my shop and asked if I would build him a saddle on a tree he owned, it was made by one of so call high end production makers. In comparison to the true custom trees that I use this tree was junk. I explained what works better with the trees I use compared to his tree and told him that I would not build or put my name on his tree. He did not order a saddle and I don't think he will from me. I would rather lose an order than lose the integrity of my saddles and my name. just my 2 cents

Darc; Yep, the basic strap pattern is based on the photos of chucks straps, but the carving pattern is mine. Lately I just feel like I need a tune up with my carving, I have been building to many ruff outs the last few years so I have not had a lot of opportunity to carve. A couple of my orders coming up have quite a bit of carving on them and I want to get back in tune with flower carving before I start them, so all input is appreciated from anyone. I am thinking I need a sit down with a good carver. To bad about you being in town, you were about 10 minutes from my shop. Where you out to see chuck?

Howdy; After looking through the TCAA catalogs, I was inspired to make a pair of dove wing spur straps. I wouldn't mind some critiquing of the strap pattern or the carving so don't be shy, you won't offend me. thanks Much Steve

I am not sure if they still have it, since it has been a number of years ago I last got some. but the last I got was from montana leathers in billings.

the best stuff I have found for patterns is "wacky carpet" or "crazy carpet" it is thick enough that it cuts well with a round knife, is rigid enough that you can trace the pattern forever and the edges will stay true. They are also fairly cheap. just google "wacky carpet"

Darc; I think you are right, the knowledge has to be passed on. I think each situation will be different. It seems this subject has quite a few variables to consider. I was talking to another saddle maker this morning about this, he bought up the point of what does the student charge for his saddles. If we teach him how to build a saddle, will he then turn around and undercut us on price with the saddles he makes. Just another thing to add to this complex isssue. ps; you build a good enough saddle to teach someone. there are guys who can't hold knife compared to you that have written books and made videos on building saddles. Don't undersell yourself, you do good work.

This is a tough question, I think it depends on the situation, I have and do share knowledge with other makers often. Where we both learn a something from each other, kind of like taking a page out of each others books. In those situations there is no need to charge a fee since I am getting something in return much more valuable than money, Knowledge. Where and when to charge in another story, is the person just wanting to get a few pieces of advice, if so I don't think I would feel the need to charge. But if the person wants to see and learn the whole process of building a tree (or saddle) or even just wants to learn a specific process of the build, I think the price must be more than your day rate as you are selling this person much more than just your time, you are also selling your own knowledge, experience and your trade etc. Something that you have spent years to learn shouldn't be given away for free. I guess another thing to consider is if you even want to give away or sell your knowledge at all, in some cases I have been taught a particular process from another maker, then do I have the right to give that knowledge away to someone, in those cases I'm not sure if it is mine to give away. In my own case I have been very fortunate to have been mentored and to have worked for some very talented makers, in some of these cases I developed a friendship with the maker first, then I was offered help with my saddles from them. In another case I worked in a shop for virtually no pay for a year so I could learn, and in another situation I was hired to build saddles for them and was able to learn in the process. So,,, I still don't know what to charge, I guess it depends on what your relationship is with the individual, their own ability, and what their expectations are, if they just want a little advise or if they want to learn every detailed step of the process, if that's the case then the fee would have to be figured out. I do know that if someone wants to learn every detailed step of how I build something that the fee will be more than just my day rate, they will also have to pay for my knowledge also. What that is worth I don't know. But one thing I do know is that teaching will better your own skills, since when you teach you have to make a conscious effort to think about every step of the process and verbalize it. We can get in the routine of building and we might miss some of the steps because it is a routine job that doesn't require much thought since we have do it many times. I recall what some other saddle makers have done in these situations, One maker charges you the full price of the saddle and you can build it with him, another charges around $10000 and he will teach you the steps from top to bottom as you build the saddle with him. I don't remember if these are the exact prices but they are close. I would like to hear all of your opinions on this topic, as I have recently had someone ask for help with their saddles, (someone form this board) I have not had the time to help this person out yet due to schedule conflicts. But when it does come time to help him him out I do not know as yet what to charge or if I need to charge, so I would like to hear your opinions on selling more than just your time, selling your knowledge. After all you have to pay to go to college or a trade school, why should you not have to pay to go to a saddle or tree school. thanks much Steve

howdy; I am lining skirts on a saddle today and it got me to thinking. I have been shown many ways to place your skirts on your sheepskin, back to butt, back to neck, bar pads to middle, bar pads out, some say it does not matter other say it does not matter all. I am curious what all you opinions are. So, what way do you all place your skirts on the sheepskin and why? Like photo A,B,C,D or another way altogether. thanks much A; B; C; D;

Howdy; First off I have to say, in my opinion, if you are building a saddle that will be cowboyed out of and you do not drill the strings, you are NOT building a saddle for a cowboy, send it to the show ring. Screwed in strings will always fail, every repair man has seen it many times. Many, many saddles over the years have had string holes drilled without sacrificing any integrity to the tree. we have all seen many repairs of old saddles where the strings are drilled through the laces a lot of the times, and the tree is still sound. I guess my advise is don't sweat it, drilling the front strings will often go through the laces, it has been done that way for over a hundred years with a very high success rate. I don't mean to sound to harsh with this, I just strongly believe that Drilling is the way to go. From what I under stand rawhide will fail if there is a cut in it, but if there is a hole in it, the hide loses no strength. Please correct me if I am wrong. ps; when we were building saddle's saddles for Dale there was no concern on his part about drilling though the laces, it is just a fact that if you are drillin sometimes you will go through the laces.

Greg; I think if I am to make an inventory that large I might need some help, maybe you can come back and give me a hand, kinda like making scabbards for you years back. Like you said, you won't be here for more than a day or two since it shouldn't take us that long. By the way do you know how to make a collar cause I sure don't? Don101; the shop was started in 1900 by my great grandfathers brother, in 1902 my great grandfather took over the business, my grandfather took over the business many years later(after ww2), over the years it turned more into a western wear store than a harness and saddle shop. Although the shop always had at least a repairman working there. then my family sold the business in the early 90's. it closed for good last winter. It was located in High River, Alberta.

Howdy; I got the idea to post this photo from another site. This is a photo of my great grandfathers brother in 1901, My great grandfather was working for him at the time, and took over the business in 1902. Take a look at all the inventory there, saddles, collars, harness and all were made by them.

Greg; That saddle is absolutly top shelf. Good work, your lines are balanced, the aligator is awsome, and one great job with the carving. I like how you did the inskirt riggin(I may have to pick your brain a little on that some day) Good wook

thanks for the tutorial, it is fun to see how many ways you can skin the same cat. some nice examples of carving there. Here is my interpretation of the oak leaf.

SOLD

Howdy; I have a Rod Nikkel tree that is for sale. the price is $550 in canadian dollars, I will pay shipping to canada or the US the tree is a "High Country", it has a 16 1/2" seat, 4"X 12 1/2" cantle, 4 1/4" handhole width, with 93* bars, the horn is 3 1/2" high with a 2 3/4" cap. If you any questions feel free to contact me, I can send you the detailed tree specs if you would like.

Howdy; A couple photos of some new gear I have just made up, an apron split rope bag, and a pair of cuffs.

Howdy Darc; good work, nice carve job and great lines with those square skirts. I am very impressed.