Art

There are just too many things here to formulate a reply without writing a book. The steel as used in meat cutting and food preparation has morphed over time. In the last 30 years, I have seen things made of steel that have an abrasive surface (sometimes even diamond) that are called steels. These "things" actually remove metal. You don't see them in meat cutting, but many chefs allow them in their kitchens because they will "sharpen" a useless knife to the point where it can be passably used for fifteen minutes or so. These are the chefs who also try to save money by foregoing a regularly scheduled sharpening service. A proper steel is a rod of 1040 to 1050 with a good heat treat and a draw to HRc 50-55. This design is used to straighten the edge (make it stand up) that has been slightly rolled, more like bent over a little. This allows the meat cutter to use knives with 35-40 degree included angles (very sharp) to keep them sharp from the start. You can't wait till the knife is dull to use the steel as once the edge is gone it has to be sharpened, there is just no other way except maybe to limp along with one of those abrasive steels. If there is a mismatch between the hardness of the steel and the knife, it makes little to no difference as you are just standing up the edge. A 62 HRc knife can be steeled by a 40 HRc steel and vice versa without any noticeable difference. Butchering knives have to be hard to stand up to bones and other hard things like chainmail gloves. If you have ever seen how knives and other tools and implements are handled in a restaurant, you will understand that the blades need to be hard. All these Chef shows on TV make people think the Chef goes to work with his roll of beautiful knives. If that ever happened, those knives went home that night and were never brought to the kitchen (except maybe the one at home) again. Mundial, Dexter-Russell, and Forschner are the three knives I recommend and have never had complaints (there is so much crap out there that a Forschner looks like the knife gods might have dropped it from knife nirvana). They sharpen well (professionally) they are hard, and they last. Dexter-Russell still makes the best steels Number 1412B or Number 1458B, which are both 14 inch and go for around $30 at FSW. Knives have been the subject of voodoo forever. Some knifemakers will tell you all this exotic crap about their knives and how they are made, and how the steel was passed down from the gods by meteor, but folks who make them because they like to will tell you, buy steel, cut (or grind) out what don't look like a knife, heat treat, and make it pretty. There is some science to it, and many ways to mess it up, but it ain't rocket science, and if you screw-up enough of them, you learn how not to. Butchers and Chefs in general know little about knives other than when they are sharp, when they ain't, and what NSF means. I wouldn't be asking them about knives and construction, only on use. Get real info from a knifemaker or a sharpener. Art

That looks like a round (or conical) point needle, very possibly a 135x17 (DPx17). The point isn't the greatest for sewing leather, and it is better to use a 135x16 Tri needle and have the machine timed for that. This is how leather machine dealers set them up. You should be able to get needles from Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial or Gregg O'Neill at Keystone Sewing. You may or may not have to retime the hook a little for the shorter needle. Where are you located, and who did you purchase from? Art

Sorry, I read the numbers wrong. On your machine you should be able to just press the backup lever. However what TYPE of needle? Leather point, round point, ball point, diamond point, Tri point? Give us the exact needle nomenclature from the pack, e.g. 135x16 Tri Art

First, what thread, needle size, and type are you using. When stitching in reverse, are you letting the needle go down then up 3/16 inch, stopping and shifting into reverse and continuing stitching? The balance (hand) wheel always goes from the top towards you. Never move the wheel away (from the top) from you, NEVER, EVER. Art

Good to hear Ron, is the 800W motor standard, or an upgrade? If standard, you probably don't need the speed reducer on the 2700. Like I said, work with your dealer to get what you want. Art

Cheryl, I didn't see a lot of that here. The gist of most of the content is you don't NEED a head knife or round knife if you can't afford it. Some who CAN afford one simply got used to using a utility knife or a clicker knife, and basically do excellent work with them. If anyone can afford a head knife, I can; I've got a whole drawer full of them, well two or three drawers actually. Still, most of my work (at least small or thin stuff) is done with a clicker knife or a scalpel, and I will admit two very small head knives that were experimental ones by Bill are used a lot. I haven't seen many jokers here, except maybe a humorous story that has some final point. I do remember stories of Someone who talked in parables quite often. I read back looking for someone scoffing at questions and treating real answers with disdain, but reading with a critical eye, couldn't find any. I did find acceptable answers among the songs of praise for everyone's favorite knife, although it was a loooong read. If the OP stuck with the thread, the answer is there, but please remember that this IS a somewhat social network, and personalities are like night and day, serious, not so serious, serious as a heart attack, and one flew over the cuckoo's nest. Try to remember that if you really need an answer, say "guys, I really need an answer", and usually someone who gave a lighthearted reply will come back with a serious answer or solution. If one of the mods see this happening, they will answer if nobody else does, or find someone who knows but might not have been listening. Leatherworker.net is a community, we all try to help. Art

One little problem I have with the Techsew packages is the lack of a speed reducer. When slowing a machine way down, the speed reducer increases the motor speed three times which gives more torque, which not only makes control easier, but allows for more power to go through multiple layers of leather. The brushless motors that come with these are a little puny in the low end torque department, and with no speed reducer are more so. Brushless motors are pretty much digital and are a PIA to adjust speed on. I prefer the brush motors that just have a knob to crank for speed control. If you are into the needle positioner thing, a speed reducer may not be necessary as one stitch at a time is pretty easily accomplished. I have a big Highlead 441 that I run with a Ho Hsing i90 without a speed reducer. I use the 550W, the 750W doesn't seem necessary. Of course there are a dictionary of parameters to set on the needle positioning motors, but not any real problem, and you can count on the dealer for help there. You should really twist the dealer's arm to get you what you want. Selecting dealers is pretty easy, based on where you live. Where are you located? Art

Pay attention closely to any knife, especially those of questionable lineage. There are some toold that have been sharpened by someone with a trademaster (cheap) grinder who knows not a lot about knives/steel/heat treat. It is very easy to overheat or burn a spot on an edge and ruin the knife. I could do that then buff the evidence away. I won't or if I did (haven't killed an edge in decades), I will disassemble the knife and heat treat it, then sharpen. If you find a knife that's a little iffy, buy it for practice, and id you want to heat treat it, come on here and I will tell you how. There are a few of us on here that can help. JLS said: Oh, I don't go back quite all the way to the 70's (just a kid) - so nowadays 'round these parts we say 4140 and D2 for steel. CSO is still using 1065 and 1075. I have D2 and BG-42 in addition a lot of tool and bearing steel in the shop, but there are a lot of knives that get great mileage out of steels of less than 1% carbon and no chrome at all. Art.

You need to put in a year of study and experimentation to get enough knowledge to modify lasts, especially for changing the style of shoe. There is a company that makes lasts for theatrical footwear who might have something you want, so try to get a catalog and see if you can modify what you have to do the job. Note, you can go down in heel size but not up without raising the toe, otherwise face meets floor might be in the wearer's future. There is not much spread in the last statement without problems with comfort standing and walking. To do any of this you really need measurements, then get the last that closely resembles them, ant THEN buildup or take off to make them perfect (well almost). The fit of the shoe to the foot is what bespoke shoemaking and bootmaking is all about, without that, you might as well send the customer to Payless or Shoebarn. Women have been accustomed to shoes that don't quite fit them for most of their adult lives, as long as they look good, they will endure the pain. Men are a little different in that once they find something they like, they will wear them out and even get them repaired. Women only repair them when they break. What I am getting at is that the bespoke shoe must be comfortable besides looking good. Lasts are made to the general size and fit of a particular style. Companies like Jones & Vining make many different lasts in a particular style and size. There are six or more measurements that define a foot, and an outline of the foot; and they all depend on one another to make the last useable. You can add to the last, or grind off some if the dimensions are a bit off, but extreme changes will require you to make test shoes to see how your mods worked (or in many cases didn't). As far as mods, grind off or build up. Grinding is pretty straightforward. Building up consists of contact cement, leather, a hammer, and a knife. Build your own shoes till you figure it out. Art

The only thing that cuts leather any better than a round knife is a band saw with a knife blade in it. The problem is you never have the knife blade in the band saw when you need it, and changing it is like taking the Tom Cat to the vet. My first ever round knife was a Tandy purchase, back in the late '70s when Tandy was great. I bought a model 70 CSO because the person told me to and that it was the one knife I could use for everything, and he showed me how he used his, right there in the store. Well, if He had one, then I needed one too. I took it home and found to my dismay that it wasn't sharp, in today's terms, they would probably let you on an airplane with it. Well, I sharpened it, and being a knifemaker, I put one hell of an edge on it. I grabbed an 8 oz piece of leather and started making a sheath for it. It cut fine for an inch or two, then got harder and harder to push along the line that I had drawn. I mean damn, this is getting to be real work, and I did have my Wheaties that morning. I managed to grit my teeth and finish the cut, but I, this knife and my belt grinder were going to have a serious talk. It turns out that I had cleanly cut the leather, AND had cleanly cut out the 3/8 HDPE cutting board I was using to protect the bench which was showing a serious template for a head knife on the plywood top. I don't think I have ever done that kind of damage with a box cutter or a scalpel, or a clicker knife. The other thing here is that that old CSO took the stress of being in the HDPE and not snapping on the curve. I don't think one of the modern head knives would handle that situation as well. CSO knife, probably 1075 steel, and heat till the magnet drops off and quench in oil. Simple but it works. Art

The major advantage the round knife provides is the ability to see exactly where you are cutting, it seldom blocks the light and has a lot of control. I guess there is the second type of round knife, and I like it for thinner leather, that is the rotary cutter, not too easy to get bloody sharp though, bloody yes, sharp not easy. Art

Horween will mark their leather, but I've never seen it from HO or W&C, ditto Baker or JRJ. Like Jeff said, If you like what you got, then mores the better. Art

The Cowboy CB3200 is a machine in the middle. It won't sew thin stuff like the CowBoy CB 227R and won't sew harness traces and tugs like the Cowboy CB 3500 or CB 4500, but with the big needle system of the 441, it will sew everything you want and will do it pretty well. Good selection, you will have a ball with it. Art

Spool of thread has two ends, spool end and the machine end. Grab spool end of thread in your left hand and machine end in your right hand. Turn the thread in your right hand counterclockwise looking at the machine end. If the thread in between your hands tightens, it is left hand or V thread. If the thread in between your hands loosens, it is Z or right handed thread. Order thread by V and a dash and then the size, e.g. V-92 for left hand 92 commercial thread. Don't order ANYTHING on special. Most important, order by telephone, not on a website, and if they screw it up, send it back. Art

With machinery, the quest for the maximum material that it will process usually stops when you bend something (like a roller). On production equipment, testing to failure should be undertaken (notice choice of word) by the manufacturer. Seldom will something tested to failure be included in the product warranty. Art

Since you are in Ft. Worth, you might want to travel up to Wichita Falls on October 2 and 3 for the Boot and Saddlemakers Trade Show. Cobra and Cowboy are usually well represented there. This is a good time to test them out and get EXACTLY what you want. You might even be able to take one home, saving on the shipping. They hold the show at the MPEC complex. Art P.S. There is also Campbell Randall down in South Texas, a little bit of a drive and a more expensive machine, but made in the U.S.A. and the Campbell is one of the best machines out there. They also carry some of the more useful Adler and Seiko machines in addition to the Union Lock.

Oh, but the grin on your face when you hit the checkout counter and realize how you are getting home. Art

For saddle or harness work, the head knife is probably the knife of choice. I learned to use one (actually two) from a lady saddlemaker in Cody, Wy. My go to head knives are replicas of the two I learned on, made by Bill Buchman, though I have gravitated toward another BB knife that is an odd duck head knife.. I haven't made saddles or bridles of or any horsey gear in many years, although fetish gear does follow in that vein. If you are going to use that type of knife, you most definitely have to learn how to sharpen and strop, or get a buffer. So that's a problem for a novice, or even someone doing work on thinner leather; the head knife works fine, but other options are just as good, with nothing near the skill level. The utility knife, aka box cutter is a very useful knife that can be bough in varieties from $2 to $20. Pick one with good solid lockup on the blade. Speaking of blades, Irwin Blue Bi-metal blades are the best, the last longer and strop to deadly sharp. The next most useful is the clicker knife, especially for intricate patterns on thinner leather; 4 oz in my estimation is thinner leather. These have sharpenable and replaceable blades that can be stropped and even sharpened. I like the model with the blue handle as opposed to the wood handle. Terry Knipschield makes a curved detail knife that also works very well. You can get addicted to these things. There is something primal about these things. I have a LOT of knives, way too many to use, in fact, if I started using them now, I wouldn't have to sharpen anything for a year and a half at least. I have several Bob Dozier knives that are my son's go to head knives. These are great knives made of D2 and I love them too, when I can find them. Best head knives in my opinion: Bill Buchman Bob Dozier Terry Knipschield (I don't have one of his head knives, but his smaller stuff is amazing, I'll buy one some day and let everyone know) Best value for money: Utility knife, Irwin Blue Blades, and a strop or buffer Scalpels (this is a whole nother subject but of value) Art

This item has been sold.

After dyeing and a good buffing to remove residual dyestuffs, Pecard's, or Montana Pitchblend. I am not into sealing-up any outdoors leather with acrylics. Art

A little self help might be in order here. Tannery Row IS Horween. Just call them and order what you want, then get in line and wait like the rest of us. You will receive better quality leather than you will get from any other supplier, but seldom right away. Sourcing is always a little tricky, it is a whole lot easier to have something in stock to use as there is little "just in time" supply ethic in leatherworking. Of course, money is an obstacle for some, and tieing-up three grand in leather may not be an option; for those there is Tandy and other suppliers. Some providers, like Springfield Leather, will cut leather for small users, cost per Square Foot will be higher (9.99 to 11.99 per sq ft for B grade HO) than buying a whole hide. Another option is to find a local leatherworker who will sell to you. Don't expect reasonable prices, but pay for the convenience and smile. Art

I may have some interest also. How many are in good condition? What styles? What size ranges per style? Heel size ranges per style? Many many questions to give them any value. How many pairs do you have? Are they in Pairs? Are they useable, they're firewood if they're not. I will be in Gatlinburg later this month, if it is not too far, I could take a day and come and give them a look. Does he have a price in mind? I need to know before I burn the gas to get to you, if I have to bring a truck, that thing eats gas. Let me know. Art

If it is a working gun, then there is not much you can do to the scabbard to protect the finish. On horseback, it will wear in the scabbard, on foot it will wear in the scabbard. If you don't want any wear, keep it in a gun locker at home. That being said, any lining and outer leather that will breathe is ok. Don't put acrylic finish on anything. Working an in shape horse will make him sweat, working an out of shape horse will make him sweat squared; and of course it does rain. If properly designed, the barrel will dip down and drag along the bottom of the scabbard when the gun is drawn. Think of being on horseback or having it on your back; you pull up on the butt of the rifle and the muzzle rotates down. A little extra clearance will help clear a high front sight. Shearling will work, and you can shear it even more in the required areas. Well clipped shearling (the real wool stuff) is pretty dense and somewhat resistant to hang-ups. Another liner I like is calf. I get that from using calf as boot lining. Good enough for my foot, good enough for my gun. My ccw is a Series '70 Gold Cup National Match. I love that gun and will never trade for one of it's multi stack brethren. It got some wear on that beautiful finish after carrying a few years, and I reblued the slide. Simple fix. Either the blue job I did was great, or the new holster I made with the calf lining is treating her better. 20 years on that blue job and still holding. Simple maintenance will take care of any salt and acid problems from use. Clean after use even if not fired and keep in a cotton or wool sleeve instead of the scabbard. Art

Do not hesitate to thin contact cement. You can get it pretty thin without effecting it. I have never poured Master from a can that didn't require thinning. I have tried to pour Master from a gallon can, but to do it the gallon required thinning. The new (sort of) Master Maxbond is really Renia Colle de Cologne I think and also needs a little thinning. I don't trust the new Barge formula and threw the can out, then switched to Master/Renia and haven't had problems. Maxbond and Colle de Cologne are also safe to have around pregnant women so that is a plus when I teach classes. To apply, put on a thin coat on both sides to be joined, let dry 10-15 minutes then look at them. If the glue is shiny, then you are good to go, put them together, and don't even think of repositioning them, won't happen. You can hammer the sides to set them. If the glue is not shiny or dull, then you need another coat of glue until they dry shiny. The main thought here is you apply glue 'till you have enough. Even if the glue is extremely thin, you can always apply more 'till you have enough. Forget tubes of glue. Remember the Barge tubes? The stuff in those was never thin enough and after spending ghod knows how long on a shelf at Tandy, well you get the idea. Art

Let me be clearer. Servo motors can be brush type or brushless. The brush type are in my opinion better. They have better low speed torque, and have only one control or setting and that is for the maximum speed of the motor. Brushless motors also have a setting for this, but it is far more complicated than the brush type that have basically a knob for adjustment. On this forum, we often have requests for directions for setting the speed on brushless servo motors. We never have a request for setting the maximum speed on a brush type servo motor, no need, it is a simple knob, clockwise for faster, ccw for slower. Art