Art

You need to tell Ryan he needs a new shipping company. I get machines delivered coast to coast for $250 with lift gate residential delivery. They run it right up to the house on a pallet jack. Diesel prices have went DOWN not up. Art

Seiwa 2 and 6 prong #3 for 8 spi with .030" or maybe .035" thread, Irons from GoodsJapan, thread from Maine Thread. The irons go in and out of stock a lot so have them email you when they are in stock. They are well made and heat treated, as with all this kind of iron, polishing on a cloth wheel with compound will help immensely with insertion and extraction of the iron. You can also polish them with a Dremel or Foredom. Art

.040" is about 1mm, .035" is about .9mm, and .030" is around .76mm. .040" is pretty big, .035 is still large, but seems to fit a lot of the stitching punches out there, but so does .030. It really depends on the size of the hole, the type of hole (diamond or /) and the spacing. Generally, if the size isn't way out of line, you can make it work. Art

I use their waxed polycord. Good thread. Remember, it is waxed, so it will not take dye, so sewing is the final step, and you need to match (or contrast) the color to your project. I usually use it to sew in welts to insoles, so I can use any color. Art

Wild Bill, Look here for Snow Proof. Here for Mink Oil Liquid. Mink Oil Paste is a little more "natural". Art

Kelsey, Hide House Napa has a wide variety of colors. Most of the really bright colors are in chrome tanned leather that will have a softer hand and may be in the 2oz to 3oz thickness. An old trick to heavy-up the leather is to find a suitably thick (thin) piece of veg tan to use as a glued-up backing. You can use another skin grain inside or grain out, either way works, but you get you get a really nice piece if you put both grain sides out which has the stiffness of the backup leather and the look you want from the flimsy piece. This is also done with things like reptile skins (even alligator and especially snakes) as sometimes you can darned near see through them. Art

If you have tried both machines, go with your gut. See if Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial can work you some kind of deal on the feet you need. Buy whatever you need in a package, it is most always cheaper. Art

First thing (every mechanic knows this but it is so simple we just don't mention it) you must do is find all of the broken needle. After that, follow Wiz's advice. Art

Back in the "old" days, you would see flat washers on the top screw (under the wedge) on probably 50% of machines, even Jukis. A good setup would require some adjustment to align the wedge for zero length. Some manufacturers try to get the wedge right, and many machines require zero shimming, but machines are made of stamped and cast parts with error margins that can (but usually don't) add up in the same direction and cause the kind of things you may be experiencing. I have two Highleads that do not have this problem, but the next one may require a little help. Remember that a 441 is kind of the "mack truck" of sewing machines, The clearances and tolerances in the "mack truck" are a lot larger than in a Ford F-150. What I am getting at is that if you set the machine up to specifications, the tolerances can still add-up to some slop. The dealer will have a competent mechanic who works on the same series of machines every day who will know what to look for and know how to compensate. This is why you will hear folks here tell newbies to buy from a dealer. If you have some mechanical aptitude, there is nothing in a 441 that even approaches rocket science. A service manual (different than a users manual) is the greatest help. Art

ECCO is more a tanner of "designer" leathers, a lot of it going to the shoe industry, but also a lot of garment. They don't do traditional vegetable tanning, but are more into the chrome tanned fashion side of the industry. You find their products in fabric shops in NYC that cater to designers, with pretty high prices. As I don't use it, I didn't give it much attention. I don't think you will find any of their products at the local Tandy. I don't think ECCO corresponds to any of our "traditional" tanneries. From what I have seen, they make some really thin products that are really suited to high end fashion clothing. Art

Gentlemen and Lady, First to Splitrail: I am sorry this topic has degenerated the way that it has. 25b had a good suggestion that you visit Campbell-Randal as they know more about leather machinery than the rest of us put together. Speak with Dan Naegle. Second to Ferg: Sorry you got caught up in this for simply trying to offer a suggestion. To the other two: This will stop now, I'm giving you both a pass on this as I am chalking this up to the proximity of the full moon, and assuming there is some hangover from same. I am not the nicy-nice moderator of our esteemed (and overworked) group. I don't want any crud about this, just stop it now. Everyone have a nice day. Art Moderator

You need to look at fabric rivets, you will have to go about $.40 (forty cents) a piece unless you want to buy in large quantities. Art

I don't use neatsfoot anymore, like I haven't for decades. Application of oils or conditioners really depends on the condition of the leather to start with. Most of the time, oil/conditioner is not necessary for a hide that hasn't been spirit dyed or spent a long time in storage. Like a friend who is a dermatologist told me, "If it is too moist, put astringent (read alcohol for leather) on it, if it is too dry, put moisturizer (read oil/conditioner for leather) on it; but whatever you do, treat it quickly or it might go away on it's own". So, I use Fiebing's spirit dyes on most things except Black, which I get tannery dyed. I use one coat of Pecard's or Montana Pitchblend paste and let it soak in for a day, or overnight. After that, I might use Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax or Carnauba Cream and buff that up to a shine. Most of the Tannery Dyed leathers have enough oil in them and just the wax is enough. For the life of the leather, you don't oil or condition till you need it. The people who make the oil/conditioner want you to oil after every use, any guesses as to why? For example; a saddle that is used every day, rain or shine, should be looked at every six months for safety and then, even if it doesn't look brand new anymore should be ignored until it gets to the one year mark, then oil or condition it and reset the timer. If your leather lives in the tack room, then it might be years before it needs oil. Better too little oil than too much. Art

Try Jerry van Amberg. Call him, if he doesn't have what you want, he knows who will. Art

After you cut the lace and before you braid, apply a light to medium coat of Pecard's to help in the braiding process. Art

I've found (through conversation) that the Aquilim takes a little longer to dry, like 2x. On another topic, who sells Flexofil, Stopgap, or other cork bottom filler here in the States? Art

The traditional skiving knife is not beveled on one side. In use, the bevel is usually toward the leather, however, usage varies with the individual and if you have one beveled on both sides, you have a right and a left. Many of mine have handles of leather and electrical tape, in America, an industry standard. Art

Unless the skin in really, really, dry, use Pecard's before lacing. If the hide is really dry, treat with Pecard's and let it set for a day or two. Then still grease it lightly before lacing. The Pecard's helps with the lacing, and the strands usually "take up" the Pecard's so the final product isn't greasy. Art

Welcome aboard. You will find a broad spectrum of current leatherworking knowledge here, and folks are willing to provide support. There is a wealth info about leather, tools, machines, and practices in the 66k available posts, but use google to search them as it is a little more comprehensive search engine e.g. on google: site:leatherworker.net edger will get you a ton of info on edgers from the site. We're here breakfast, lunch, dinner, and all the times in between, 24/7. So if you get stuck, give us a holler. Art

You might want to try Hide House, they are my goto for this kind of leather. They are a bit pricey sometimes, but not always, and the products are excellent. Art

Barnsley ended-up in a fire. Really, C.S.Osborne and Vergez-Blanchard are about all that is left of the "Classic" toolmakers. Nevertheless, there are still good tools around used, and Bruce Johnson seems to ferret them out (that's a pun, he is a Vet). I've never had a problem with a tool I bought from Bruce. Other custom makers seem to specialize somewhat like edgers or knives, and Jeremiah Watt, makes very good tools in a wide range. I have several of these and they are all well made. He doesn't make everything, so you will find an overstitch wheel, but not pricking or stitching punches. I think the question here is how many leatherworkers does it take to support a factory, and that is what is driving the factories out of the market. Art

J. Weiner has some, but so do many others. Art

Barnsley all over again? Art

It is really a matter of cost. When you buy the stuff in 55 gal drums, the cost differential can be enough to sway a decision. Manufacturers already have fume extraction in place, so using the unhealthier product isn't a problem for them. Orthotics practitioners use the newer product because it fits into their practice. Long open times are a plus, and if the adhesive manufacturer is really serious, a blazingly fast accelerator is available. The formulations that use Toluene and MEK (old formulations) are somewhat similar to those that use Ethyl Acetate and other hydrocarbons (newer formulations), but development, testing and production probably cost a blue-blood fortune. It is not surprising that the new formulations were done in Europe long ago, as California type regulations are more the norm. I used Master for years before stumbling onto a can of Master Max Bond ("new" Renia formulation), which I have used since. I use Renia now and have learned how to use it, so I will "stick" with it (pun intended). Art

I don't know what the orange does. I usually spray it on diluted with a little water, scrub it if necessary and wipe off with a damp/wet rag. Some of the stuff I've worked on, you have to go over it more than once. I know someone who took after a saddle with a pressure washer, I don't recommend that. Art