Art

Well, you have to live in a community and own the local gun shop/gunsmith/hunting/fishing store. You have no idea how quickly you can become the black sheep of the community. I had a CC permit in MARYLAND for ghod sakes, driven snow was dirtier than I was. Local Leos knew I was ok, let me speed and everything, I always knew when the wife or kids got a ticket, even warnings (almost always warnings). Worst ones were the church folks. They just don't like firearms. You know, it never stopped them from coming into the shop when they needed something for the church or uniforms for the little league. Art

Hi Louis, I suggest you call Steve at Leather Machine Company, he can talk to you and answer all of your questions. The only question here is if you need needle feed, which is about $200 more than walking foot and highly recommended. Steve is tops in customer service and loves to talk so call him; 866-962-9880. Art

Hi Aaron, Contact OTB and talk with Ray Patel, he's the hardware guy. If he can source it (they use a lot of Belgian hardware), I'll take 50 or 100. Art

Pecard's Montana Pitchblend Bee Natural #1 Saddle Oil Fiebing's Aussie Skidmore's (Restoration and Cream are the same thing) If you can't find any of the above (you're really not trying): Dr. Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator at Tandy I don't use Neatsfoot anymore. Art

Hi Eddie, Well technically, another Union Lock. They can also be rebuilt. Once set up, they run pretty reliably in a cantankerous bastard sort of way. It is a one job machine. The Campbell is a more precision machine and is more suited to a small shop than a production line (they run well in production too). I use 6cord/5cord or 5cord/4cord linen in mine and have used Eddington poly without problem. Of course Connie and Dan are your lifeline for parts and advice. The other option is a threaded needle machine ala 441. If you are used to a needle and awl machine, the bottom stitch may not be to your liking, but the top is excellent. It is a lot easier to do thread changes and needle changes on these machines. Art

I think there is quite a difference between a #1 and a #3, however, for smaller items, you may be able to negotiate your way around #3 problems. The #1 hides seem to have an evenness throughout, the grain is tight throughout. If you are making premium strap goods or harness goods, the harness or bridle backs are the best value, but they would be wasted on a holster maker. W&C have one of the best finishing departments in the US, second maybe to Horween. They can do just about anything you are going to need. You need to call Matt, Glenn, or Linda and see how they can put the talent of the finishing dept. to work for you. About price. The following equation applies to some extent. Value = (Quality / Price) X Service Plugging numbers in here really doesn't mean much without comparative or historical context, but the relationship of those levels does. Basically higher quality, higher price, given the same service level. As I've said previously, don't chase price, chase quality and service, and if you think the price is too high, ask the vendor for an adjustment. For some stuff we use W&C, for others we use HO, not for difference in quality, but the tanning is different. For Boy Scouts, we use anything we can get(that can take tooling). The best way to figure this out is to try a #3 side and see how it works for you. Everyone's mileage will vary. Art

Careful, I've had some folks that have had problems with Sailrite feet on the 126. I'd like to hear if anyone has actually used them. One of the advances that should be pursued is the SCR motor/controller. They have very respectable power at almost crawling speeds. More expensive yes, but you wouldn't need the monster wheel. Art

Well no, You are asking dealers to get new castings made and develop a new machine, that may be going a little far. Taking a 126 and hanging a few extra parts on it is a little more reasonable. Artisan tried, it didn't go anywhere, now you want someone else to join this? Like I said, go ahead, put YOUR MONEY in it and then talk, the leather community may support you....or not. The only reason to do something like this is the expectation of reward. Is altruism enough of a reward for this? Not when it has to feed your family. Someone can probably make your dream machine for "less than $500", will he sell enough to make it worthwhile? Who knows. That's why I encourage you to undertake or back this venture. You are the one telling everyone what they should do, so show us. Art

[quote name=Wizcrafts' date='13 May 2010 - 06:19 PM' Well Wiz, If it is such a great idea, why not do it. Lets see you come up with and support a Sailrite clone with monster wheel, 1.5 amp motor, smooth feet, heavier springs, and everything you want for under $500 (your own words). Sounds good, I'll take the first one, or honest to ghod, I'd probably buy the same thing from Sailrite for $649, http://www.allbrands.com/products/abp03447-0758.html because I know they can support it. After you've eaten a few of the returns and go out of business, I'll still be using the Sailrite. The extra margin of profit means the company stays in business, has parts, supports their product. One of the caveats is to never develop anything new out of China, someone will be marketing your product before you get the first one to sell. Even if developed here, there is a very short window of opportunity before someone has knocked it off. BTW, Artisan tried to sell a Sailrite clone a few years back, had it at one of the IFoLG shows. Obviously didn't work for them, never seen it again. When the companies like Allbrands get in the picture, you can't expect many dealers to carry a product like that unless they can add value to the picture, and of course charge for it. Art timestamp='1273789151' post='154364] They are already out there Art. Many sewing machine vendors are selling unmodified portable walking foot machines now for well under $400. The buyers can then purchase a Monster Wheel from SailRite for about $125, plus postage and it adds the punching power and smooth slow speed needed to sew veg-tan projects up to about 3/8" - after grinding the bottom teeth off the pressor feet. My idea was that perhaps some of our dealers could get these machines modified at the factory to sew leather, rather than vinyl. They would have smooth bottom pressor feet (to avoid marking the top of the leather), heavier top tension and pressure bar springs, a slightly heavier take-up lever and a wider, heavier flywheel already installed. Unmodified, these machines now weigh 41 pounds, in the carrying case. Add another 9 pounds for a larger, heavier flywheel (which slows the top speed & increases torque) and you've got a 50 pound mini workhorse, perfect for shows, flea markets and hobby sewers. They are not triple feed, but double feed machines. The outer pressor foot moves in time with the feed dogs. This is still better than a straight stitch machine. Having the heavier springs, flywheels and take-up parts made and pre-installed at the same factory that produces those machines would be cheaper than purchasing a standard mini walker and then purchasing or modifying those additional parts, later on. There was a discussion on this very forum where some members have increased the height of the pressor feet to sew thicker leather with heavier thread than the standard portable machine can manage. Others have discussed how adding a Monster Wheel allowed them to sew thick leather. This could be done at the factory for a lot less cost, making it possible to sell already modified machines suitable for hobbyists and traveling leathercrafters lacking the budget for a full size industrial machine. Just a thought. NB: These suggestions and ramblings are aimed at selling a decent portable machine to a leather crafter who wants to get into sewing, at home or on location, but lacks the budget to move into a full-fledged heavy leather sewing machine. It is a cost-effective alternative to a pull lever portable stitcher and easier to use for long runs. There have been quite a few inquiries made on this forum, over the last few months, for machines capable of sewing up to 3/8" of real leather, easily controllable, at about the $500 price point. Well Wiz, If it is such a great idea, why not do it. Lets see you come up with and support a Sailrite clone with monster wheel, 1.5 amp motor, smooth feet, heavier springs, and everything you want for under $500 (your own words). Sounds good, I'll take the first one, or honest to ghod, I'd probably buy the same thing from Sailrite for $649, http://www.allbrands.com/products/abp03447-0758.html because I know they can support it. After you've eaten a few of the returns and go out of business, I'll still be using the Sailrite. The extra margin of profit means the company stays in business, has parts, supports their product. One of the caveats is to never develop anything new out of China, someone will be marketing your product before you get the first one to sell. Even if developed here, there is a very short window of opportunity before someone has knocked it off. BTW, Artisan tried to sell a Sailrite clone a few years back, had it at one of the IFoLG shows. Obviously didn't work for them, never seen it again. When the companies like Allbrands get in the picture, you can't expect many dealers to carry a product like that unless they can add value to the picture, and of course charge for it. Art [quote name=Wizcrafts' date='13 May 2010 - 06:19 PM' timestamp='1273789151' post='154364] They are already out there Art. Many sewing machine vendors are selling unmodified portable walking foot machines now for well under $400. The buyers can then purchase a Monster Wheel from SailRite for about $125, plus postage and it adds the punching power and smooth slow speed needed to sew veg-tan projects up to about 3/8" - after grinding the bottom teeth off the pressor feet. My idea was that perhaps some of our dealers could get these machines modified at the factory to sew leather, rather than vinyl. They would have smooth bottom pressor feet (to avoid marking the top of the leather), heavier top tension and pressure bar springs, a slightly heavier take-up lever and a wider, heavier flywheel already installed. Unmodified, these machines now weigh 41 pounds, in the carrying case. Add another 9 pounds for a larger, heavier flywheel (which slows the top speed & increases torque) and you've got a 50 pound mini workhorse, perfect for shows, flea markets and hobby sewers. They are not triple feed, but double feed machines. The outer pressor foot moves in time with the feed dogs. This is still better than a straight stitch machine. Having the heavier springs, flywheels and take-up parts made and pre-installed at the same factory that produces those machines would be cheaper than purchasing a standard mini walker and then purchasing or modifying those additional parts, later on. There was a discussion on this very forum where some members have increased the height of the pressor feet to sew thicker leather with heavier thread than the standard portable machine can manage. Others have discussed how adding a Monster Wheel allowed them to sew thick leather. This could be done at the factory for a lot less cost, making it possible to sell already modified machines suitable for hobbyists and traveling leathercrafters lacking the budget for a full size industrial machine. Just a thought. NB: These suggestions and ramblings are aimed at selling a decent portable machine to a leather crafter who wants to get into sewing, at home or on location, but lacks the budget to move into a full-fledged heavy leather sewing machine. It is a cost-effective alternative to a pull lever portable stitcher and easier to use for long runs. There have been quite a few inquiries made on this forum, over the last few months, for machines capable of sewing up to 3/8" of real leather, easily controllable, at about the $500 price point.

You of course want compound feed too. That would be a very popular machine. When I can get the pig to fly, I'll have him bring one right over to you. The three main reasons are: 50 lbs. $500 Plenty of power. Ain't gonna happen. There isn't enough margin (or any), and there isn't enough market. Art

If it's true IWB, then your belt will determine a snug fit if your original proportions are reasonable. Dummy guns are never exact, except for Ruger dummies that are made from real guns. You can always throw an adjustment screw in if it is bothering you. Art

Hi Gregg, I guess the question begs, What are you trying to accomplish? I have been importing for a while so I can answer a lot of your questions, maybe. Tinstafl. Art

Gregg, The ISF (Importer Security Filing) requires the following information on each and every piece of equipment imported. * importer federal identification number – this is probably your company * consignee federal identification number – when the goods deliver to a consignee different than the importer * seller name and address * buyer name and address * ship to party or consignee name and address * manufacturer or supplier name and address * country of origin * commodity tariff number * container stuffing location * consolidator name and address * Standard Carrier Alpha Code (SCAC) and bill of lading number I am not sure if the information is public. However, if you subscribe to any of the importer information services, they can probably get it for you if it is. With a modicum or digging, you can find out anything. Failure to provide anything above is a $5,000 fine, so the importer knows where it came from. Art

Hi Gregg, The importer knows (by US Law) where everything imported originated, who made it and their address. This is as of February this year. Art

Oh well, I tried to attach a file, please send me your email. Art

Hi Chris, Machine thread is usually size 20, so 3 cord is 3/20. Barbour's is part of the Coats dynasty. I tried to attach a file but couldn't, send me your email. Art

Hi D, If you are talking about cordovan shells, the only place I know making them is Horween in Chicago. The stuff everyone sells is the butt leftover after the shell is cut out. Art

Hi D, W&C is supplying a lot of veg tan to LV, call Matt and ask. Art

Hi Doug, I'm not sure I answered your question, give me a machine and I will try to find out for you. I know the major players, and even those buy from other, usually smaller companies out in the boonies, so you actually need to give us the model too. Any dealer can give you what you want to know, they have to report point of manufacture on the customs documents starting in February this year. Art

Hi Doug, An ok view as long as it is you going that direction. Many times on LW, we find folks that haven't sewn before and have LW as their only lifeline. Old farts like me remember 4k computers with NO disk drives, just paper tape and cards (and a tape drive with vacuum tubes in it), and we came from a generation that would tear the heads off a car engine and put a new set of valves in on a Saturday afternoon. Many of the youngsters just were not brought up in that culture, and futzing with a sewing machine that is older than the computer I just mentioned is a little out of their comfort zone, their not stupid, machinery was not in their culture. My wife can tear a sewing machine down and fix it better than I can (on the small ones) because they sewed all the time and made a lot of their clothes. We give sewing machines to our relative's kids (and our own) and she teaches them to use them, nobody is doing that much today, and there are no sewing classes in high school anymore. So telling anyone to buy a new machine with rock solid support on the first purchase is really doing them a favor. They will learn on that new machine, and the dealer (hopefully) will teach them what they need to know. Let them get something like a hobby machine on their second purchase. Art

Masters. And I'm pretty sure Barge and Masters reactivate with heat, well the old Barge did. I have also used Renia Colle de Cologne which I like a lot. It is a German product. why they don't call it Leim aus Köln I don't know. Art

It is a steam wand for taking off wallpaper. Art

Hi Gordon, Lets take the motors first as I am a little fuzzy on your sewing machine questions. Cheering makes some shoe machine equipment, some domestic sewing machines and small motors (180 watt or less) for small sewing machines. I didn't know they made a 400w servo, maybe they do and maybe they don't. Industry in China is quite diversified, few if any manufacturers make all of the products that go into their machines. Machine heads, motors, stands, belts, the little name placards, tools, etc., etc., come from different factories, and in the aforementioned assemblies, sub assemblies and just plain old parts come from different manufactures, most Chinese, some Japanese, some other countries. They will put whoever's name on the product, they really only care about payment. So Cheering may or may not make that motor. As far as sewing machines 100% US, probably none, some part of that assembly is going to be from somewhere else, maybe, even if it is something like a screw or spring. Given that, Luberto, Campbell/Randall, Union make or remanufacture big stitchers here in the US. Art

The internet is also a good place to buy. You probably want to start with a #3 handle and a #11 blade, but there are many other blades for really intricate work. Some blades only fit a #4 handle so you need to ask for a handle to fit such and such a blade. There is an exacto kit that has blades of many different shapes, but they are in no way as sharp as a surgical scalpel. If you have to pay more than about $4-$6 for handle look elsewhere. A #3 handle and 100 #11 blades should be $22 or less. There are usually tons of them on amazon or ebay. Art

Which one? Art