Art

Hi Tim, Being it is 9:00 am Monday in LA, I assume you are calling Artisan. My first question IS: Is the shaft turning at all or is the handwheel just spinning on the shaft. You may have to take some covers off or look up into the machine to determine that. I suspect you have a jam-up of thread in the shuttle race, that can lock things up like a ..... well you know. I hope it is just the wheel spinning on the shaft and the shuttle is bound up, otherwise something severe might have happened. You will have to remove the shuttle to at least look for something jamming it. Grab the video that come with the machine, it will show you how to remove the shuttle, and more importantly, how to put it back in. Art

Ray, They also made the Singer 153 in Kilbowie, so you should also look for 153K102 and 153K103. Art

Hi Ray, There's always the Highlead GC22618. Beautiful machine, you can get it either with the big bobbin or the small. Small has a little less diameter on the cylinder, but then less bobbin thread means more refills. If you can find a used one in good shape. http://www.highlead.com.cn/hailing_english/admin/product/product_show.asp?productID=product_10030 I don't know if you can get that gear reduction motor that Bob and Steve sell on your side of the pond, but at 300 watts, it would be good match. I also am not sure if servo motors will work on 50Hz. Art

Hi again, Now having said that, I sometimes run a #19/120 with 138 thread top and bobbin. It works and gives me the closed up stitch I am looking for, but I do bend and or break needles, probably because the needles are a little bendy for the tensions I run, I should be running a 22/140, or a 23/160 with 138. I do this for a particular look, not all the time. So you can get by with more or less, and it really depends on the particular machine and it's setup. Good Luck, Art

Hi Charlene, I think it means a #17 needle which is a 105 metric, normally 17/105 in the jargon. This is for 46 and 69 thread and not much bigger. For 207 thread you need 24/180 or 24.5/190. That size needle and thread combination is about "one toke over the line" for that machine, you can try it, but go slow on scrap as the machine will like it or it won't. I would run 135 is the bobbin and 207 on top as that hook really isn't made for 207. The big needles might be a tight clearance for the hook so try the 24 to start. Art

Hi Ray, That is a good machine for what you are doing, the only thing better is the cylinder arm version. My wife does a lot of quilting work with mine, using 46 bonded nylon thread. I have smooth feet on mine and they are not a problem for her. That machine uses Singer 111 feet, of which there are hundreds of varieties to do many different sewing functions. The Superior catalog has a lot of them, although there are many on eBay also. The cylinder arm version of the 618 is a bit on the expensive side, so an alternative would be a used Singer 153W102 (or 103), again that also uses 111 feet, downside, no reverse (really, turn the work around) and probably the motor from hell. A step down, without needle feed is the 797 from Highlead (and Cobra Class 17) and the Brother 797, the Juki 141, the Nakajima 180L, 181L and 280L and the Consew 205RB. If you find any of those, they will probably have wup-ass motors on them and of course check for heavy heavy use (trimmers run these things heavy). I think Steve and Bob both carry the gear reduction 300 watt motor for these which is a simple swap out. As with anything leather related, you will have to provision anything you get for leather, slow and smooth (motor dogs and feet). You need to be buddies with someone who has a sewing business to get access to the Superior catalog, they can order for you, there is probably a different company that does the same thing on your side. Art

Hi Charlene, I know if Steve has been working with you these things have already been checked? Needle in the right way? Needle not too big for thread also check needle system, 794? The shuttle (bobbin) should be going back and forth when the machine runs and it should not move when the machine is not running. Some of the 3000 machines will break the shuttle shaft right at the connection to the lower crank. Check shuttle point to make sure it didn't break on something. And last but not least. make sure the motor is running in the right direction, the handwheel should be turning toward you. Art

Hmmmm, That would be turning down a pretty good deal, you could turn around and sell them (the clones) and buy a Cyclone, Campbell, Randall, Union, Landis 16 and 1, and have enough left over to build a shop to put them in. Make deals with your head, not your heart. Art

Different animal the needle and awl machine (as opposed to the threaded needle machine). Nicer stitch top AND bottom, will sew linen without a problem (in fact they like it) and poly as well. They require a little more maintenance and have a little longer learning curve. I haven't seen many equipped with a servo motor but I guess it is possible (with the speed reducer provided, slow is clipping along pretty good). Good, helpful folks at Campbell to deal with. You see these machines in production shops and factories now, but in earlier years, most saddle shops had one, mine was in the Olsen Nolte Saddle Shop in San Francisco in the '40s and probably a lot of years before that. The Campbell, it's bigger brother the Cyclone, the Randall, the Landis, and the Union are very much alive and stroking today, still laying down a great stitch. Those who have them know what they've got and are usually very happy with them. Art

Hi Mike, About 5 Large or thereabouts. Art

Hi Jim, Just ask for a "low shank" walking foot accessory, they should be at most stores. Art

Shaft Tugs (Traces) on draft harness are at least that thick. Art

It is a clone of the Singer 111/211, a great machine and there were many of these made over the years. I see them a lot in canvas shops and trim shops (car upholstery), they pretty much run 92/92 thread as a max. You can get all sorts of feet for that machine, just look for 111 feet. Parts are plentiful. Where do you get your ring posts from? All the hardware looks good and the workmanship and finish on the leather is excellent. Art

Unlike some, I can do things concurrently. Art

That's great, I get them and never can part with them. Heard from his yet? Art

Wiz, This isn't a charity site for ghod sakes. I do like the covering on the box. Art

Jason, That is why they put a speed reducer of some kind and a variable speed (servo) motor on industrial type leather machines. You have received good advice here, but it isn't apparently what you want to hear. Like I said before, a Singer 31-15 will be the place to start although one of the Cobras (Class 17, 18, or 5550) would be better. An old Pfaff 545 or 645 would work too, but Pfaffs can have parts problems (availability and cost). If you don't understand leather sewing machines, then you need a dealer to hold your hand. You might pay a little more, but at least you would have something you can use, probably forever. Lose the Craigs List mentality, machines set up for leather rarely come up there. There are plenty of used machines to fit the bill, they just need a little work and some parts to get them set up for leather. However, it takes a few years of farting with old iron to get the experience you need to do that. Art

Get a Singer 31-15. They have an industrial motor (usually) but are a tailor's machine. A gear reduction variable speed motor is just the ticket for that machine. In lieu of that a Cobra Class 55 will also do the trick. You would probably have to buy it new but it would come set up and ready to sew. A new Cobra 5550 would set you back $1000, the used (and probably older than you) Singer 31-15 would be well under $500, and add $165 for a gear reduction motor if needed. Parts for either are not a problem. Art

Hi Gesa, That particular stone is finer grade on the other side. Also, your belt grinder rotates away or towards you? Away I suspect, which is opposite from what they are normally provided over here. Your setup is for a professional, felt wheels are quite aggressive and build heat quickly, especially at high rpm. For the less experienced, a sewn cotton wheel might be better. Because of the profile of the Blanchard Knives, an unsupported belt (called a loose belt) is more appropriate, nevertheless, the platen support can work too, with a flat stone for the flat side. Art

Juki DNU-1541S Cobra Class 18 Adler 267 Adler 867 Pfaff 1245 Consew 206 Singer 211 To name a few, but whatever you get, it should be setup and provisioned for the work you will be doing by a brick and mortar seller who will be there for you when you need them. Art

I agree. Call Nick Pittman and see if you can work some kind of trade. Even if you get a used machine in good shape, you will be ahead. The 5550 is a really good machine, a trade shouldn't be a problem. You need a good machine, new or used, that uses 111 feet. Art

Hi Gregg, I really put that out there so guys would know what it is if they run into one at a good price. In fact, buy two if they are cheap, there are still parts available. The 280 was a great machine and is still strokin' in quite a few trim shops. Art

This isn't doing you a lot of good now, but the 5550 is really a fabric machine. It is fine for doing boot tops and stuff like that using 46 or at the most 69 thread. The machine you need is something in the Singer 111 class, like the 618 that Highlead makes (Cobra class 18 is made by Highlead) or a Nakajima 280L. Machines of the 111 class take all sorts of feet like cording, piping, zipper, etc. pretty much everything needed for the trimming trade. If you can work a trade with someone, and even have to add a few bucks, you will be a happier camper. Try Cobra or Nick-o-Sew. Art

Hi Ben, I have used PeasandCorn.com which is the "mother" company. They are good people. Art

Hi Shannon, Superstar makes the GB5 and GB6 series machines that are clones of the Singer 7 class to a large extent. Also the GA5 machines are like a cylinder arm 7 class. The Superstar machines are branded over here under many names. Check with Bob Kovar at Toledo and Nick Pittman at Nick-o-Sew for these machines. Also Ron at Raphael in Canada markets them under Techsew (I think). All three of the above are decent folks, have established storefront businesses, and will be there when you need them. Art