Art

Missouri and Pennsylvania and Illinois for vegetable tanned. There might be some chrome tanners in Texas. Art

Well, you told him $100, you told him to fix the needle bar so that should add and hour. So with parts, you should get out of there for around $200. So offer them that. The patcher was a staple of the shoe repair industry up through the 1960s and declined as glues, synthetics, and cheap offshore shoes (that cost less to replace than to repair) took over the U.S. market. I don't know if I would want someone who was younger than 55 working on a seriously sick patcher. As Ann has said, Steve and Tony are serious mechanics. They have a wealth of experience. While not the mainstay of that business, they can fix pretty much anything that wanders in there, and have fixed a few machines from other distributors just because they are nice folks. Art

Hi Ben, I too have found the Organ needles a little bendy, I have not used enough of them to know if I like it or not, heck, for the most part a needle is a needle. I do prefer the Groz for the Pfaff and the Singer 31s (134D), and either Schmetz or Groz for everything else. The Groz are a tad more expensive. Other than that, I can't say I give them a lot of thought. Art

Hi Ben, I use TRI or Diamond points and haven't seen these listed, only fabric systems. I also haven't seen any studies on them. I use mostly Schmetz and Groz needles, and didn't find the Ti coating in the catalog. Things change rather slowly in the sewing business, Ti coatings have been around for decades and they are just coming into use for needles. Art

Wickett and Craig 1-800-TANNERY http://www.wickett-craig.com/ Art

So how much id Bob selling it for? Art

Also on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120469330549&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Art

It is Acrylic Paint. This is what you see on many factory edges, it can be applied by machine. Fiebing's Edge Kote is one of those, and works fairly well. The stuff they use in factories is quite a bit thicker. Any of them are best applied with a piece of wool felt. Paints can be applied over anything, but they lay on top and are susceptible to chipping. Putting paint on a well burnished edge may be covering up a good thing. Dyeing a burnished edge will work as well or better than paint. Make sure when dying the edge that you don't use any sealer like Gum Trag or beeswax to burnish, or the dye won't penetrate. Painting just makes life easier for the factories, it might not wear well a year down the road. If you are using the same color edge, you can dye it after sanding and edging without too much problem, but contrasting color is harder to control during application and many folks wait till after burnishing to apply a contrasting dye. I kind of rambled on there, hope I answered your question. Art

http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/FlipBook/hardware%20catalog%20p210/index.html

Dye first then burnish, you can use the gum trag to lay down the fibers right before burnishing; you can paint the edges as a final step if that is what you need, but you don't have to. Gum Trag is also good to paste finish the flesh side of the leather, or even as a top coat. Art

Hi Casey, This is a popular machine with shoemakers, used for closing uppers and can do some decorative work on 9oz and down. The bottom roller feed and the top roller presser are both driven, top by belt and bottom by shaft; some folks take the top belt off if they don't want it driven or break it. Top and bottom shafts are linked by cog belt. I love the art deco locomotive head. It is not a Heavy leather machine most often threaded with 46 or 69. The only machine remarkably better is the Pfaff 491, but you will pay more for one of those. Needle system is 128x6 I think, size 14 - 18. Art

Yes, you can get 25/64 eyelets and 18/64 button barrels from OTB, page 14 or so. If you want more than that, you need to go the Chicago screw route. Art

Hi, I generally use my machines with wheel presser for chrome tan leathers. When I use them on veg tan, the wheel marks get smoothed out when I close the stitch holes with a slicker or bouncer, or shoemakers hammer (that you don't ever hit anything but leather with), a little water before closing the holes can help a lot. For heavier veg or chrome, I generally use one of the compound feed machines; they too can leave marks on veg depending on the leather and the presser foot pressure. Avoid the marks as much as you can, and then learn how to handle them when you can't avoid it. If the wheel is pretty aggressive, you can polish it down a bit, and of course you need smooth feet and sometimes dogs on a compound feed machine. Art

Try call Steve Hansen @ 435-680-2650, he had one for sale for $2000. Art

I'm going to get real basic here. There MUST be a solid surface to start with, smack it with a hammer and nothing bounces. Add to that a hard surface that won't destroy the punch but is still hard like a poundo board or one of them black punch boards that Tandy sells. This should make everything work. If it doesn't, take it back and get your money back; then buy a sharp punch at: http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/tools/tools.html#strappunches I know it's $60, but you won't buy another one unless you want a different size. Second option, call Mandy at Sheridan Leather Outfitters and get a good used punch, tell her what price range you are in and see what she can do. Art

Hi George, Dover immediately brings to mind a big supplier out of Dover Mass, just outside Boston. Tennessee Saddles sounds ok and someone Mentioned Tennessee Saddle Company. If you use that then you can also use TenSadCo or something like that as a trademark. Art

Get in touch with Steve, 1-866-962-9880. Price won't be much better, but it will be done right. He has patcher clones that use that configuration, and a facility to make tops. Art

Hi again Ellen, You might want to try using an airbrush. It takes a little practice, but a lot of the "impeccable" finishes are often sprayed. You can cut back your dye with Denatured Alcohol and it can reduce the uneven application, you just do more applications to get the required density. Art

Hi, Assuming you have your edges finished and everything, you are pretty much done. You can spray on and rub in some Bag Kote inside and out or Tan Kote if you want a little more shine. Let it dry overnight, then a little Leather Balm with Atom Wax and buff it up if you want some protection and gloss. If you want to protect it from water some, use Pecard's in place of Bag Kote. Art

Hi Ellen, Sounds like you have very particular requirements for your leather. Wickett and Craig can probably meet your needs as they have quite a finishing facility at their tannery in Pennsylvania. Don't go looking for sale prices when you have higher standards as the premium hides are never on sale. I have seen backs that they produce for Louis Vitton that would, I hope, meet your expectations. You really need to tell them what you need and not flinch at the price. Get in contact with Matt Bressler at W&C and see what they can do for you. 1-800-Tannery. Art

Hi Duane, There is a -7 model Ls 341N that will sew 138 and maybe 207. In the "other world" thread system, #40 is about "our" TKT 33 and #8 is about "our" TKT 92, and #5 is TKT 138. Art

I got the demo at Sheridan and then had some time to sit and play with it. The quality and design are up to usual Luberto "built like a tank" standard. Finish is good, no shortcuts were evident. I have only one problem with it. The motive power is a crank on the side of the machine (where a traditional balance wheel would be). I just have a problem with cranking that thing and feeding the work. That's not saying I wouldn't get used to it after a while, it cranks away from you unlike most balance wheels, which is a good thing. I have no problems working my No.9 with the wheel on the front, but the crank on the side might take some time to appreciate? It is a little more fluid than the Boss, and I would have a hard time deciding between the Cub and a Cast Iron (original) Boss. With the prices the way they are today, You should seriously consider a powered short arm 441 clone, unless portability is a factor. Art

I don't know, the crater where the garage was can be quite impressive to the girls. Art

It is a Singer 97, hopefully a model 6 or above, for harness it was de bomb in it's day. It still is a fantastic machine. A pain in the keaster to move or ship, and not fun to find parts. I gave up on old iron when I couldn't lift them anymore. Art

Bob, If you can still get the 15 piece 1018 Hackbarth for $156, you will be able to accomplish a whole bunch with that. Fill in with some geometrics from Lonnie, Barry, Bob, and you will be set. Except for the 15, buy as you need. Where in Va? Art