Art

Yes. Art

Hi Clay, I've used stretching fluid which has a lot of alcohol in it as a wetting agent when lasting and also when needing something wetter faster. Just like water, you need to be careful of watermarking on light color leathers. Art

Although Goodyear (son of the rubber baron) invented the machines to sew the 1. Welt to the Upper and insole. 2. The Outsole to the Welt. in about 1875, and marketed the machines to the shoe industry very successfully, later Landis, USM and anyone who could manufacture, made them for the shoe industry after the patents ran. By the turn of the century, everyone was making something for the shoe industry, it was a big industry. To make a long story short, they were called the Goodyear welt machine and the Goodyear outsole machine. They are a single thread chain stitch machine. The welt machine sews the welt (usually tacked on) to the lasted upper and that to the holdfast of the insole. The outsole or Sole Stitcher opens a channel on the bottom of the outsole (sewn upside down) and stitches the outsole onto the welt. Don't know who ROS is unless maybe Randall Out Sole. Art

I don't know if I would want to be running 46 thread on that puppy, maybe they meant for side seams? Do they even make a 794S needle in a 16/100, I'm just guessing it uses a 794 system (7x3). Art

They are very very similar. You will occasionally see them used, check the used machine dealers. Art

In the late '90s they switched over to Chinese iron, but left the price the same. Art

Randy, King's is usually Thursday night and Sheridan Leather Outfitters is usually Friday and the Awards "reception" (hasn't been a banquet for years) use to be Saturday, so you can afford to lose the Awards thingy. Art

Look foe the ASE No.9 This is the best harness machine I have used other than my Campbell, and you can do webbing on the No.9 too. You can hand crank it easily although most are motorized. Art

Do you have the Juki Pro 2000 or the Chinese one? Art

Yes, It should be shiny, if not, applyy another coat and let that dry again. Art

That AND reducing presser foot pressure. Veg tan differs and most of it marks in some way or another. You can smooth out those marks and close up the stitch holes with any good slicker, usually bone or polished steel. A fitters hammer (flounder) works great for this, but any polished piece of steel or wood or bone will do. Art

Hi Griz, It sounds like the right stuff, I don't use the stuff in the tube as it thickens up too much. I like glues like Master where you add thinner to bring it back to fairly thin. You have to let contact dry before sticking it together, it shouldn't be gloppy, it should have a shine when it is ready and be a little tacky, 15 minutes usually, stick it together, give it a little hammering and it should be there forever. Art

Hi Randy, where did you get that 80% figure? For various reasons, I would prefer a safety, and yes I am aware that the wheel guns never had one, but they had a significant trigger pull. I assume you were around in 87-88-89 when the transition from the rev to the auto happened, and there were a lot of ADs. Not many of this type though, if any. As with anything, it is usually a training issue, thorough and sufficient training can make the use of anything "safe" or safer at least. Art Art

Ron at A1sewingmachine.com or Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial may have what you need. I don't think anyone has stumped Bob yet. Maybe for a Junker SD-28? Art

You are talking about wool Felt? I know, anything other than wool felt is an oxymoron, but they have synthetic felt now; it doesn't take heat well. Aetna Felt here. Sutherland Felt here. I've always dealt with Aetna. You have to know the density you want. F-1 weighs in at 16 lbs a sq yard, all the way down to F-26 that weighs around 7 or 8 lbs/sq yard. Those are in 1" thicknesses. F1 is very very hard, it doesn't bend at all, the higher numbers are more pliable. Hope that is what you need. Art

Don't use rubber cement, use Master or Duall 88. But I suspect that is not the only problem. The finish might have soaked into the outer layers and not into the welt, then the heating in the truck and the rubber cement might have allowed the two outer layers to expand a little more than the welt. I'm just guessing here. Anyway, use a good contact cement to start, if it happens again, refinish the edge after whatever happens, happens. I doubt the contact cement will squish out. Art

You need a Singer 153W101 or 153E103 as a mate for the 111, you should be able to get a good one for $400 at the most. Then set your sights on the Campbell. It is a great machine, not the least bit of speculation that it made the stitch, kerchunk. You can sew linen with it with wax to lock in your stitches. Get Dan to send you one of his business cards on a piece of 14oz with a penny sewn on top of the card. I've run nylon through it and poly through it without a problem. Don't put wax on the bobbin thread unless you sew all day, every day, just wind the bobbin dry, and run a size smaller in the bobbin for the tightest stitches. I love the bobbins, they don't run out very often. You'll need a motorized bobbin winder that comes with it. If you have special applications, they can supply feet and other apparatus for it, there is even a plexiglass table for flat work. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but with the right attachments, you can sew darned near anything you can get in it. Art

I have never thought of the Glock as the ideal carry weapon, all just my opinion. I was around in '87 when DC switched to Glocks. There were so many ADs that we called it the Glock AD. Guys getting shot in the foot, their LTs getting shot in the foot (don't know if THAT was an AD). The lightness and "play" or "take up" in the trigger before engaging the sear is not one of my favorite things, and keeping your finger outside the trigger guard may help with ADs, but when I want to shoot, I want to shoot. Nobody ever kept their finger off the trigger of a wheel gun when drawn. I would never be leading any kind of action where the guys behind me had Glocks. Adrenalin and the Glock don't go well together. I have never made a holster for a Glock of any kind, and don't see any reason to start, well maybe if they put a thumb safety on it, with that it would be a great gun. Art

Like where are the powder burns? If you have ever discharged a firearm in a vehicle, nobody would say what was that, like it was a small pop, it is deafening. Art

Hi Sim, Is that a 12 K? Art

There is a set of 15 from Ellis Barnes, made of 1018 steel and are a little short. I think they were not marked, but I'll check tonight. Art

Hi Tom, Ron Edmonds retired as I understand it. Both Bob Douglas and Barry King make very good edgers. Also check with Bruce Johnson, he may have a good Gomph or Newark Osborne for sale. Art

First just try the "flounder" end of a fitters hammer and just run it down the stitches after sewing; you will really like how it closes the holes up. The 19 is something that works for me in a certain application, your results may be different. Try just closing up the stitches first. Art

The Singer in the 153W101 and 153W103 are compound feed machines similar to the flatbed 111 except with a cylinder arm and a riser, they will handle 138 without a problem. The 153W102 however is a different animal with a different needle system, you generally don't want one of those, so check carefully. The 31-15 however is one of those gems that Singer made for a long time. It can sew light leather all the way up to a sandwich of 2 4oz liners + 2 4oz tops + a counter made of 6oz sole leather + a 4oz counter cover + a 3 oz welt without a problem; all those pieces are skived a bit but at the most by half, so I would say about 15oz total of leather. I don't like to use over 69 thread in them although I have seen 92 in the top of some. The home machine won't do much in leatherland, and if pushed, not for long. It is not that those little iron Singers can't hack it, but needle size and thread size are a little problem, and the motors just aren't up to the job especially when run slow, they just eventually burn out. Get a machine made for leather and you will be a happier camper. Art

Hi Gary, That is a great machine made by the same factory that makes Mitsubishi machines. It should last forever. My wife likes it so much for sewing quilts, I am thinking of getting her one of her own that she can keep setup for her stuff. The feet are the same as the Singer 111, and there are a ton on different things you can get feet for, among those cording feet for handbags etc. You can find a seller for feet etc here to see what I mean. Art