Art

If you are talking one or two dies at a time, no problem. You don't have a problem with air. You shouldn't have any problems with it, have fun. They are nice machines, but then Tippmann had always been quality and simplicity. Art

The 18 is a flat bed, the 223r is a cylinder arm. Upholstery is more flat work, but the 223R-1 is a nice machine, a bit more expensive than the 18. The 223 R-1 has a safety clutch, not sure about the 223R. The class 18 will be set-up for leatherwork, the 223 probably not. Art

Hi Tom, Ok, it has a couple of problems, none insurmountable. 1. The top platen doesn't move as on hydraulic clickers which swing out of the way for setups. If die placement is critical look to a hydraulic. 2. It uses a LOT of air. I think they sell an air recovery valve for it which you might want if you have a small compressor. 3. They are HEAVY for such a small package; don't even think that less than three hefty dudes are going to move it, it is awkward. It has good points. 1. It works. 2. You can get an air recovery system for it. 3. It disassembles into not too many heavy parts that makes it possible for one man to move it. A couple of folks bought the 25 ton when they first came out and that was practically the only way to move it, and some of those parts were HEAVY. Art

Interesting machine, I have seen one or two, a little reminiscent of a scaled down 7 class. Drop feed machine uses a 214x1 needle so 328 for leather. It will sew a little under 1/2 inch. Newer models have reverse. I am not sure about feet (availability). It does not have needle feed. If price is very right you might want to pull the trigger, however you can get a brand new machine with needle feed for $1400 to $1600, and without needle feed for $1200. Don't even think of buying without sewing it off. Art

A post or cylinder arm would add considerably to the machine cost in that class of machine. Since you assemble a lot of bags inside out, a special machine may not be necessary. The needle feed on the Class 18 can help in feeding difficult materials, the Class 17 doesn't have that. Art

Hi Mike, That machine looks to be a Highlead GC20698. This is a great machine from probably the top factory in China. They make a lot of the Mitsubishi machines for them. The GC20698 is a little overkill for the upholstery/canvas trade as most shops use the GC0618-1sc machine from Highlead, Singer 111w, 211w, Consew 255RB, Juki LU-563 and others which are a tad smaller and don't have that big arm on them. I am not so sure the GC20698 is fully automatic lube, I suspect maybe just the bobbin, but it is a while since I have seen one. If you have the money, go for it, it is a very good machine. Art

That's why I said to leave the brush top on the can of thinner, it stays clean. I now use the bottles I got from Kevin at SLC. Even though you can adjust the brush so only the tip is in the glue, I still switch the brush back to thinner when I am done for the day. The whole idea is to keep enough thinner in the glue. Art

Sure, from 1oz up to about 20oz. Art

Hi Diamond, OTB Catalog P210, Page 56, Top. Used for dress collars on BDSM gear. http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/FlipBook/hardware%20catalog%20p210/index.html Art

My son Paul is there right now. He says it is packed and a great show. Art

I'd pay a couple hundred more and get the Class 18, they use 111 foot sets which come in styles for hundreds of applications, and are fairly inexpensive. I have an 18 and it is great. Wife likes it too for quilting. Art

With bigger companies, one part of the company handles finances, and warehousing/shipping (sometimes called fulfillment) is handled by another. Even when I pick up leather, I get the invoice in the mail. Good folks at W&C, good product, good company. Art

Thinner is specific to the cement, for master use master, for barge use barge. Art

Hi Mike, I'm just not sure. A few folks here have tried to get in touch with Tony of late with little if any success. He might just be on vacation or something; January and February are the pits in the sewing machine business. Generally, Classics are both motor and crank, you just have to pull a pin out of a pulley shaft in the back to change over. I have an ASE No.9, which is quite similar, and the going price for a good one of those (used) is as high as $3,800. For that price, I would add a thousand or so and get a Campbell. Both machines will do harness all day, all night, they can do other work too. Ron at Ferdco might know what Tony is up to. Art

Forget the tube. Contact cement needs to be fresh; by that I mean it needs enough solvent (thinner) in it. If it is not thinned enough, it becomes this uncontrollable goo, stringy etc. I recommend a can of contact cement and a can of thinner. Take the cap/brush that comes with it and put it on the thinner. When you want to use it, put the brush in the glue and apply the glue with it. You might have to put a little thinner in the glue to start with. Then when you are finished put the brush back in the thinner can. The next time you use the glue, you will carry a little thinner from the can on the brush into the glue, keeping it "fresh". You can get a glue bottle from Springfield Leather and put the glue in it, then every week or so, put 1/2 to 1 oz of thinner in the glue bottle and shake it up. Also, use Master All Purpose cement not Barge, the new Barge formula is not quite as good as the old formula. The Master has a Lion on it and is made by Petronia. Don't get the other Master which is made by Testor for models. Art

Do the math, that's $11 each; kinda pricey? They are all needed tools, no dogs you will never use. Get a good swivel knife and some geometrics from Barry and you will be able to do a lot of work. Art

Especially after you tap it with a shoemakers hammer. Art

Basic 15 set in 1018 steel About $165 Gomph-Hackbarth Tools 10754 N. Martineau Rd Elfrida, AZ 85610 Phone: 520-642-3891 Fax: 520-642-3891

I use seam tape. I get it from Rochford Supply. No mess. Art

Steven, I don't see a lot of hatred on these boards. I do however see a lot of frustration with your customer service. You keep stepping on your crank every time you post. When you said garment horsehide is was easy to source, you should have given the name of several suppliers. Vendors should kiss the behind of every customer, past, present, and maybe future, because helping these folks will help your business and ultimately rebuild your reputation. Now, to the folks on the board. When you buy something that is on sale, expect that it will NOT be the higher quality of the stuff that is not. Vendors have sold the primo stuff, and the stuff that is on sale is "the rest"; sometimes great quality, sometimes not. I used to buy shoulders from Siegel, some on sale way below what I usually paid. I could get a holster or more out of them, sometimes not. I used the rest for liners for D&S, worked great. I used to tell the order takers to put what I told them on the pick list and invoice. If I wanted clear, blemish free leather, I told them to put it on there, and they did. I always got what I asked for, but I didn't do that on sale stock. But Steven, lighten up (and shut up), the folks on this board are not causing your problems, they are venting. Listen (read) and do NOT respond. If you take action by reason of their words, you will learn a lot and will have accomplished more. Art

Hi FB, I though you said you had to be able to sew 3/4 inch veg tan. If so, the only things in your list that will do that are the Cub and the Boss. Ferdco has a 1010 on their list for $1500 that might work and a No.9 would also work. They might have a 6/6 on the swap board also. The CB 2500 will NOT sew 3/4 inch. Art

Hi Ryan, Good to see you back. The post you are answering is about three years old, he has probably selected something by now. Art

Once you go Maroon, you won't be singing that hand stitching tune. Oh gawd, did I just say that? Art

You really need the Cobra class 3 or 4. Cylinder arm is much better for holsters, the flat bed just gets in the way. Also, 277 and 346 threads are not possible with the class 18. I have made a holster for my cell phone out of 9oz on my 18, I would say that is getting up to the max (without adjustment) on the 18, worked fine though, it is a great machine. On a lot of holsters, sewing up next to something like the pouch is a lot easier on a Class 3 or 4 with a single foot and the pouch hanging over the end of the cylinder arm. Art

If the tech is 65 and been in the business for a long time, he will know that you never get a patcher to 100% no matter how long you piddle with it. If I can get 6spi consistently, I know I can get 7-10 and that is as good as it will get, or I would ever need. However, look at it this way, if you have a working machine for $400, plus the $200 you bought it for, that ain't bad. Given all the drawbacks to that type of machine, only it will do what it does, well maybe a McKay chain stitch, but they generally use bigger thread. If you are a one man shop with machinery, you need to take some interest in being a mechanic. Also develop a relationship with a local machine dealer (a regular old home sewing dealer with a repair shop) who can order parts for you from superior or consew (their parts department has a new name now). Steve or Bob can probably help you with that too. Art