Art

Hi Duane, No way, never. Design max is 92, will maybe do 138/92. Nice machine though. Art

Tom, Ethyl Acetate is an esterfication of Acetic Acid and Ethyl Alcohol. The proper name is Acetic Acid Ethyl Ester. Since an ester is a combination (through esterfication) of an alcohol and an organic acid, we know the alcohol was Ethyl Alcohol. In the esterfied product, the targeted completion is almost always a range, with the remainder being the alcohol; the more technical the product, the more defined the range and the higher the cost. Esterfication is a complicated process in which a high molar sulfuric or TBATB is used, you can't just mix vinegar and alcohol together and have ethyl acetate. Should be purchased, don't try to make it at home. Art

Thread tension should not affect the stitch length. If it does, then the top/bottom tension combination is too tight and is overcoming the presser foot pressure. Either apply more presser foot pressure, or back off the bobbin tension and readjust the top till it stops pulling the work back when bringing the needle forward for the next stitch. Art

I have been dealing with Siegel for years. They have made a couple of mistakes, one botched tool order, and a skin damaged in packing (hard crease). These were both rectified to my 200% satisfaction, with just a phone call, two perfect skins came in the next order (and I got to keep the one that was bad, and to eliminate any confusion the tools were shipped direct from CSO). I have made a lot of holsters and belts from those "crust" double shoulders Steve mentioned, so don't let the term "crust" make you think they are crap; they cut well, dye well, machine stitch well, and finish looking great. I have not ordered from Steve in over a year because of his shipping policy. In the past, shipping was free if you kept your order above $75, it did not matter of it was on sale or from regular stock. I tend to mix orders, some things from the regular inventory, and some things on the sale lists (weekly specials, year-end, whatever), so when I read the special shipping instructions, they lost a customer. But I watch the specials, and when I see the old shipping policy, I'll order again, because they are a good and honest company. Art

They are good punches, made by C.S. Osborne. Kind of their utility grade, still good tools. They are not a well recognized name, are used, and as such should bring $5 to $10 apiece, depending on size and condition, sometimes less in sizes under 1 inch. Art

Get a few to start out (if you are just starting out) just because of the directions. Get a few of the letter sets, you can always use those, even if you have been doing it awhile. Art

A lot of wire crimpers have a device in the handle to clip these screws to length. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=214&group_ID=796 They are a lot cheaper than the ones I pictured here, usually $12 to $15 at the local hardware, maybe cheaper at the chains and discount stores. Art

There's Ron at Ferdco up in Harrison, Idaho. 1-800-645-0197 Art

Glue the foam to the pan then shape it; use 3M #90 to glue foam to pan. The leather has to move a little on top of the foam so don't glue to foam. You can use 3M #88 or #90 to glue the leather to the bottom of the pan if you must, then you should put rivets in it just to make sure. You need to think of the dude or dudette sitting on that thing and the amount of moving around they will do, I just think over time the leather could work loose, maybe not. I don't do enough of these things to be the expert, I suspect a few others could pitch in? Art

Hi ??? Pres-N-Snap $110 Works http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Upholstery_Tools/Snap_Fastener_Tools/Press-N-Snap_%28Aluminum%29_for_Installing_Fastener/index.html Art

Yes, that should work. Art

Hi Troy, The Sutton 296 is a chain stitch machine used to put soles on shoes I think. I have seen folks very occasionally use these for knife sheaths etc, but a lockstitch machine would be better. Nevertheless, you can get a manual (probably) from http://www.shoesystemsplus.com and common parts and maybe some advice. Shoes, boots and the like are a separate part of leatherworking with their own tools and terminology, so you might not find a wealth of knowledge here. The Crispin Colloquy http://www.thehcc.org/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi might give you a lot more help with your machine. Art

Hi LB, (you have a proper name???) My eyelet setter produces a very tight roll on the post as I suspect most of them do. You need to find washers that have a tight fit to the post. You generally have to buy the washers separate for eyelets, grommets come with washers. Grommets are not specifically made for leather, but instead for fabric, the washers are wide to get greater purchase on the flimsy fabric. Eyelets on the other hand are made for more substantial material like leather where they can pull on just the hole successfully. So basically the roll on the eyelet is just there to keep the eyelet from coming out of the hole, whereas on the grommet the the use of the washer spreads the load to the more flimsy material. Art

Buy only what you need, when you need it. Buy high quality tools and you will only buy them once. First of all the strap cutter, buy the wooden one from Tandy for $19 or less, they had the aluminum ones on sale but they were probably gone. Strap cutters are cheap, so you can buy one for each width you use and just leave them set that way. You should be able to get one (probably the same one) from Springfield Leather (info at top of page). Mallet, Barry King Maul, Ed the Bear Man (on this site). Barry King also. (different animals entirely) Round Knife, Lonnie at Gomph-Hackbarth (under $100) or Paul Zalesack (over $100 but worth it). Awls, Bob Douglas, don't buy from anyone else unless it is Sheridan Leather Outfitters who handle his tools. Edgers, Bob Douglas, Barry King, Ron Edmonds, all extremely fine tools. Round Punches, C.S.Osborne arch punches, but you'll have to sharpen them out of the box. Belt Punches, Weaver are good punches. If you know how to sharpen, pick up used ones (arch punches too) from Proleptic, or get good sharp reconditioned punches from Bob Douglas and Mandy (or Luke) at Sheridan Leather Outfitters. Get the CSO punches (new) from Springfield Leather. Miscellaneous Leather tools and stuff from Springfield Leather or Sheridan Leather, they carry Master glue, which is the same old smelly great formula it always has been. I've tried to give you suppliers nearer to you, but everything I recommend I have used, and everyone I recommend I have dealt with. Other than that, just my opinion. Art

Those machines can sew quite well, but nowadays, you have to find someone who wants one and wants to move it to get any money for them. I used to be an old iron nut, but I have sold everything but the Campbell and a No.9, and started collecting 201, 221, 222, 301 Singers; much easier to move and work on. You might run into some nasty little parts problems with that machine too, but the parts are out there. If you are not absolutely in love with that machine, don't buy it. Art

Hi Eric, For Osborne "arch" punches (most of what I have), I center them up in the lathe and sharpen them up with a hand stone or stones if really bad. I catch the insides (remove the burr) with a sharpening stick which is just an round oilstone on a stick. For non concentric types like yours, I just use and oilstone around the outside edge by hand and again use a round stone for the inside. CSO makes a little conical stone that is good for the insides. Art

Ok, First you glue up. Then you can sand off to establish your finished edge. Use an stitch groover from Tandy or Bob Douglas that puts a groove a fixed distance from the edge. If you don't have a stitch groover, use a compass or dividers to mark the location of the groove and then go back and groove it. Do this on both sides, and you will have two grooves, one on each side, an equal distance from the edge. Now mark the bottom of the groove (one side only, the side you will use your awl on) with an overstitch wheel of the desired stitch per inch to indicate where the stitch holes will be. If you want to be anal about it, shorten up stitch holes a little toward the corners to make one stitch hit right in the corners, or you can just eyeball it when stitching. Now you start stitching, placing your awl in one of the stitch hole marks made by the overstitch wheel and working through to the other side, pulling back and fishing if necessary for the groove on the other side. Then make your stitch and repeat till finished. On a machine it is pretty easy to hit the groove on the other side if you are sewing a 4oz thickness and maybe even 6oz, but if you have a 1/2 inch stack or more and are sewing on a cylinder arm, well good luck holding that thing perfectly perpendicular. For production work on a flat bed, you can level up the table and the bed to sew that perpendicular seam time after time for flat work and a flat seam; but when does most leatherwork meet that criteria? So if you have one piece of work that you do day after day, you can build jigs to do it, but not the average leatherworker's machine that has to do anything and everything. The taller the stack of leather, the more any slight misalignment will affect where the needle point will emerge on the down side of the work with a corresponding decrease in the probability of the needle emerging in the center of the off side stitch groove. Art

Since many different companies make these from different materials, some will hold differently than others. Art

Hi Bum, When hand stitching it is ok as it is easy to place the awl in both grooves. With machine stitching something even moderately thick, it is darned near impossible. Art

No I was referring to grinding the posts on the ligne 20 snaps. The 16s may work better for you. Art

Hi Jason, Ligne 16 are Segma snaps and don't hold as well as Baby Dots. A little judicious grinding on the posts will make them set tighter. Art

Hi Roo, Must be a Commonwealth kind of thing. We (U.S.) have Bayer Bepanthen Cream and Ointment, I figure the cream is the same. Art

Hi Jim, The best nylon thread that was EVER made was named Rice, no longer in production but you can find it in odd colors only, no more White, Black, Brown, or Natural exists except in the hands of stingy leatherworkers. The next best nylon is Linhanyl (pronounced something like Lee-hain-eel in Port). Well bonded, somewhat lubricated, and the stretch is pretty well controlled. Coats nylon is also pretty good, but I find it hard to get, or a better term is not consistently easy to get. You might want to try the Thread Exchange, http://thethreadexchange.com/ where they have a lot of things put up in 2oz spools at about $6 so you don't have to get too invested to try something out. While they primarily ship Linhanyl Nylon, ask for it specifically. They ship quickly; I order on Monday, it is on my doorstep Wednesday. Polyester is a different story, I like Coats DaBond and Eddington poly. Two different looks, the DaBond is tightly laid, and the Eddington is looser (for period gunleather). Both good, strong products. For Linen, I only use Coats Barbour's in my Campbell. Hand stitch with it too. I don't use A&E for anything anymore, nuff said. As a hint, cut up pantyhose legs and put them over the spools to control spool unraveling, loosen up the tension just a little after doing this. You married guys know that women generate thousands of these things and won't miss them EXCEPT when they don't have an extra pair packed away and you steal their current ones, so find out what size she uses and buy a pair and put them in the back of your sock drawer OR you will be making an early morning or late evening run to the Safeway or 7-Eleven. Art

I think Luke was talking about UKRay, who is over on the Welsh border, somewhere between Shrewsbury and Hereford. He is a machine nut, sometimes not torqued properly, but a good guy. Oh by the way, on a 29, it takes about two stitches for the bobbin to run out. The 19 needle should do 69 thread ok, what thread are you using? Art

Hi Charli, There is good advice in reading the Suppliers and How do I do that forums. There is also a good bridle making tutorial out there. Don't buy too many tools all at once, just what you need. We can fill you in on tools once you determine what you want to try to make. Being you are the horsey type, you might already have a pattern for a bridle for your horse. Tools: Box cutter (Utility) knife Ruler/Straight edge Leather to make a strop for knife Rouge or compound for the strop Various hole or belt punches, you will know what you need from your pattern (an existing bridle) Master Glue (contact cement) Master Thinner A glue bottle would be nice, but if you get a small can of Master, it will come with a brush top, and the can is your bottle. Some edge paint A slicker, or some spit and a canvas or denim rag for slicking edges Some edge paint Some Fiebing's Pro Oil Dye is you want it a different color Leather A stitch marking wheel A Stitching Awl Stitching Thread Harness Needles You can opt to buy a stitcher from Steve in lieu of the last four items but there is a big difference in cost. Call Kevin at Springfield Leather and give him this list, he can cut you enough leather to complete your project, you don't have to buy a whole side. Ask Kevin for advice, there is always something I forgot. Tandy has an Aluminum Strap cutter on sale for about $22, that is a good deal, but the wooden one works fine too and Kevin at Springfield might have that too. Art