Art

Lift presser foot and let needle go into previous hole having put the presser foot down, complete the stitch. Do as many as you want that way. Art

Hi Johanna, You know, the same thing happened the other night when I ordered the Super Bacon Beef and Cheddar with a double order of Curly Fries; were they maybe trying to tell me something about my cholesterol? Art

The Dogs yapping Jingle Bells. It was funny the first couple of times, and that should have been the last time it was played, but Noooooooooooooo, when it first came out, it was on every station two or more times an hour. Now I just can't stand to hear it more than once a Christmas. Christmas songs by dead people are ok, Frank Sinatra, Bing Crosby, Burl Ives. Music (no singing) by Mannheim Steamroller and others is good. Art

I think it was Chocola, haven't seen it in a while. Art

Bob and Wiz have given good instructions and advice here, you might want to send the head off to a good mechanic if you are still having trouble, PREFERABLY a Singer (not modern) mechanic. Why an old singer mechanic? Because they know that Singer screws had positively the wackiest thread system in creation (ok the world, I have no idea what the Klingons use). Good old Singer mechanics have screw collections salvaged from old junkers etc. I have an old Singer screw chart somewhere, but I suppose someone knows where one is on the Internet, if so please post it here. I have heard stories of Singer thread gauges, but have never seen one. If you have a 29 (or 30), get it running and keep it, there are just some things only it will do, and if you have a repair business, a 29 or a post or both are pretty much must have things (unless you LIKE hand work). If you have to take it to a mechanic, first thing to do is contact the local shoe repair guy and see if he knows who to take it to. Art

Hi Hil, Welcome to LW. Where in Maryland? Art

I guess you can paint that with the same brush? Product Name CRC 3045 POWER LUBE WITH P.T.F.E (AEROSOL) 3. COMPOSITION/ INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS Ingredient Formula CAS No. Content 2-METHYLPENTANE C6-H14 107-83-5 30-40% PETROLEUM HYDROTREATED HEAVY PARAFFINIC Not Available 64742-54-7 23-33% ACETONE C3-H6-O 67-64-1 20-30% LIQUEFIED PETROLEUM GAS (LPG) C3H8/C3H6/C4H10 68476-85-7 10-30% N-HEXANE C6-H14 110-54-3 <10% DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL METHYL ETHER C7-H16-O3 34590-94-8 <10% ZINC DITHIOPHOSPHATE Not Available 19210-06-1 <10% METHYL SALICYLATE C8-H8-O3 119-36-8 <5% POLYTETRAFLUOROETHYLENE (TEFLON) (C2-F4)x 9002-84-0 Not Available Art

Nice spider, I would try leaving his butt alone. We used to have a small copperhead problem, then we got Barney, a fairly good sized black racer. Barney bit Paul once because Paul stepped on him, other than that he lives in the basement and patrols the property, we have no more copperheads or any other snakes for that matter, Barny said they were very tasty. Art

TR is "Tannery Run" which is a grading system that can mean anything to anybody. There used to be a method to that madness like 2 A, 2 B, and 1 C or something like that. Now it really means however they come off the pallet, you have to ask, then tell them you will hold them to it. Art

Lets see.... Catalog of Federal Domestic Assistance Council of Fashion Designers of America Cowboy Fast Draw Association California Funeral Directors Association Chicago Furniture Designers Association Colorado Funeral Directors Association Connecticut Funeral Directors Association Carboxyfluorescein Diacetate Assuming Cowboy Fast Draw, I have never seen a pattern published. The best I can think is to get one and learn from there. I've done a couple many years ago, but all I did was make a high rider with TG exposed and lined with tin, the holster was canted rearward a bit and was cut very low in front for bbl clearance. The gun rode so high and loose in the holster that it wouldn't be of any other use than fast draw, the cylinder had to be able to turn freely in the holster. This was in the late '80s. If you can find a pattern, I would appreciate seeing what they are doing now. Art

In today's world I wouldn't guarantee that. Read the label, but I suspect they are mostly mineral oil, it just works. They can't adulterate it too badly or they might affect the non-compressibility aspect. Nonetheless, regular old light mineral oil will work just fine too. It is just easier to find hydraulic fluid at TSC or John Deere or the Auto parts store. If there is a choice between light and heavy, choose lite. Art

Properties of hydraulic fluid (mineral oil) * Viscosity for film maintenance * Low temperature fluidity * Thermal and oxidative stability * Hydrolytic stability / water tolerance * Cleanliness and filterability * Demulsibility * Antiwear characteristics * Corrosion control I doubt you will get much of that from WD-40. The one thing you do get from WD-40 is solvents. Go ahead and give WD-40 a call, 1-888-324-7596, ask if it is good for oiling your sewing machine, if they give it the OK, then make your choice. I still say mineral oil. Art

Hi Bruce, I am a proponent of Ballistol for cleaning and protecting my guns and gear. I use it a lot on black powder guns for cleaning and protecting from rust, especially after cleaning in water. I get much less buildup in the lockwork than I did with WD-40. In fact, Ballistol has pretty much replaced WD-40 in my shop. I use other high tech lubes for hard working guns like auto handguns and longguns. I do not use Ballistol as a lubricant. I have used the high tech lubes on the sewing machines (why not) but I can't give you a thumbs up or down as to effectiveness, at least nothing went wrong. Lilly and the Dritz stainless work just fine in the machines, I buy it in gallons from Campbell-Bosworth (the Lilly not the Dritz). I am pretty sure the Lilly is really a Randall formulation. I can't see where Hydraulic oil is any better or worse as long as they don't doctor it up too much, and a little high tech additive is not going to hurt a bronze or roller bearing. If I was running a room full of high speed machines two or three shifts a day, I might be on a quest for something special, but then I would be oiling every shift anyway unless they have automatic oilers, regular mineral oil sewing machine lubes should do just fine. Art

No No please. 3 in 1 is not great either. Any oil with a carrier that evaporates is just not good, it deposits when the carrier evaporates and builds up over time to GUNK. Standard sewing machine oil is light mineral oil. I don't know what the stainless sewing machine oil is, but it works fine also. You can get that at most sewing stores etc., commonly under the name Dritz. There are also a few extreme condition and high-tech oils that will work very well, but unless your machine is in an unheated shed in Minot North Dakota, it might be a waste. Hydraulic Oil is also a highly refined mineral oil that I have seen mixed 50-50 with standard sewing machine oil (Lilly) for a custom solution by a prominent dealer. The Dritz stuff is clear and stays clear and works fine, it usually comes in a little spout bottle that lasts over a year in daily use. A drop on each oil point every shift is the standard use. Mineral oil will turn golden over time. Art

Campbell-Bosworth has them, I think they are $5. Art

MSC or McMaster Art

That would be "European Shoulder Bag" to you JL. (Progressive commercial reference) The design looks like it was done by a woman, it is practical and stylish and very well executed. The only thing I can critique is the raw edges, try folding them over or treat them someway, still only a minor nit-picking point. Please, lets see more designs. Art

Weaver had been selling their tack line for some time. We sell it in the tack shops I am connected with. There are several reasons. First, I could not custom make the volume we sell at our shops. Second, even if I could make their tack line, I could never compete and pay the product liability insurance that comes with the Weaver (we also sell Jeffries) name. Hell, they aren't going to sue me when they do something stupid, their lawyers are going after Weaver. Weaver is filling a niche that I simply can't, and I make a decent markup on it. And Weaver only sells to brick and mortar (well boards and nails in our case) tack shops. Some of our customers can barely afford to board their animals, much less pay high prices (it seems to them) for custom tack, the Weaver line sells very well. I generally don't buy uncut leather from Weaver. I feel there might be too much temptation for them to cherry pick the leather for their own use. For my own use, I use Belgian, English, and German hardware, Weaver (and Tandy who they cooperate with on buying) tend to provide Chinese stuff. The quality is OK but not great on Weaver hardware. So, don't shun Weaver because they sort of compete with you, use them, order some of their product and mark it up, that's what you are supposed to do. You will still get custom work, but you will also make money on the customer who really doesn't want custom tack, why have them walk out the door and spend nothing? Art

Hi PR, It sure should have a bobbin case. That model came in a large and small bobbin version and they BOTH had bobbin cases. I have seen the case and hook together sold for $150 for the small and $175 for the large. I have seen bobbin cases out of China for around $40, but have never used one. Art

the 220 is a High Speed garment machine, drop feed only, self oiler, no reverse, probably setup to run like a scalded cat. In working trim and good shape, worth around $200. Not what you want to sew anything but garment weight leather. The Singer 280-30 is a huge long arm machine and might be up to some light leather. Art

Retiming is not terribly difficult. There is a video on the subject. Calling Steve will get you the fastest fix as sometimes only a few steps are necessary, seldom do you knock the whole machine out of time. Once you understand the relationship of the point of the hook or shuttle to the needle, setting timing is easy. Timing the feed to the needle and hook is a little more difficult, but that very seldom goes out. When your machine is running properly, you need to observe the relationship of the shuttle and needle, do this with stitch length at zero. Art

Hi Mike, The biggest difference is Steve Tayrien, worth every penny. Some of the sewing parts are different. Some of the internal parts are different too. There is a part that breaks on the Artisan, that doesn't break on the Cobra. It doesn't seem to be as easy to knock the Cobras out of time, there's a reason for that. Call Steve and ask him. Art

I did not attend the show. I usually attend the IFoLG show and the Kimmel Boot and Saddlemakers show. But that two week hiatus between the shows makes that impossible. You need to coordinate the show dates better. I can't imagine the vendors having to wander around for three weeks with motels and all just to make these shows. There is no way I can go to next years shows and travel back to the east coast between them. Art

Masters, both the rubber and the all purpose, also the thinner, but since you are in Europe, go to a shoe maker or repair and find out where to get Renia Colle de Cologne, it is a good all purpose cement. The other Renia products are more compound shoe (rubber plastic pvc whatever) repair and or orthotic buildup. They make accelerators for their products also. Any shoe supply will know what it is. Art

It looks like a 169, a bartack machine older than most of us. I don't know if you would even be able to find parts for it. I would honestly make them pay me to take it away. Art