Art

Hi (name????) The 111 is a pretty versatile machine. Most will run 138 and some will run 207 top and 138 bottom. You will need a 180/24 needle for 207, a 160/23 or a 160/22 will work for 138, and I have gone as low as 120/19 on 138/138 but have sacrificed a needle to the outside the box gods. It all depends on the look you want. I would recommend Coats Dabond poly for a lot of outdoor use and sunshine, otherwise Linhanyl nylon, both usually available. At 346 and above, you start running into the White, Black, Brown only thing, from 92 to 277 there are a few colors, 69 and down plenty. Buy from The Thread Exchange, http://www.thethreadexchange.com their prices are fair and they have good stock and delivery. Art

Call Bret at www.brettunsvillage.com, he has a maker that will make custom size arch punches I think. Art

What? The guy wants a custom holster and wants a discount? He shows it to all his buddies because of the great deal he got, and maybe he points out the flub and maybe not. They'll be coming in wanting a good deal on one of your top notch holsters, or even worse, think you are a ham handed maker because of the obvious flaw you let out. Either way doesn't help. Just my opinion. Art

Ones that were shipped to New Jersey and Northeastern Pennsylvania never seemed to work well. However they thread somewhat like a 4 so I think, can't remember the 58 too well. Here is the location of the manual for the 4, 62, and 70. http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/29-4.pdf http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/29K62.pdf http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/29K70.pdf We have a guy WizCrafts, we call him Wiz for short who simply loves the 29s, and if he isn't out playing a pedal steel guitar gig and is still alive, will probably answer you in length if you can't get set straight by the manuals. I love sewing machines except the 29s and 30s. From my limited experience, they don't seem to like anything but 46 or 69 thread and are cantankerous at best, even changing the thread color seems to set them off. We also have dealer, Bob Kovar who's son Bobby is the bees knees on the 29s. If totally flummoxed, take or send it to Bob in Toledo. Good luck, Art

Hi Jackie, Welcome to Leatherworker.net. Please, visit us often as your help and expertise are valuable to us. For those who don't know Ohio Travel Bag, they are a go to vendor for quality hardware. I find their stuff to be quite a few levels above most of the items coming from China. I believe a lot of their suppliers are European as the casting and plating, fit and finish of their products emotes U.S. or European quality. The staff at OTB are pros in their field. I don't know many of them that don't have five years there, most of them are ten or fifteen year hardware addicts. Ray knows most of the hardware made on this planet, and where it is. He is THE man for finding something. I have probably just covered the surface of products and services from OTB, so Jackie, please go to the suppliers forum and give us the full scoop on OTB. Art

The reason for all this trivial ephemera, and the use of the word ligne instead of line for these old measurements is that ligne = 1/40 inch and Line = 1/4 barleycorn or about 1/12 inch (3 barleycorns per inch), a good reason for the metric system, but I have left instructions that they are to put a English caliper, a yardstick, and a set of Whitworth tools in my coffin in case I run into an Austin Healey on the other side. Art

Hi again Ken, If the Fortuna is cheap, it is a handy puppy to have. Shoeschool did a video on the Fortuna that you might want to view. Skivers have a bunch of adjustments, but once you understand them it ain't rocket science, however you might need a part or 2 like a steel feed wheel for veg tan, the stone wheel works ok on chrome tan. There is a lot you can do with that machine and a few feet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRh7Z5my2iQ&feature=related Art

A fine man who gave more than he took. Rest in Peace Phil, you will be missed. Art

Hi Ken, Campbell Bosworth makes the Keystone splitter that is, for all intent and purposes, an 84. It is a great machine, very high quality, you pretty much get what you pay for. The Heritage I'm not too sure about. I have a few of their tools and they are very functional, I just don't have their splitter. The Heritage foot operated punches/setters are a little wobbly, but that can be fixed. The Chinese versions of the Fortuna are also pretty good, but the directions are a bit wonky. I don't know if you need a grain of salt or a grain of Valium when reading them. Art

Smitty, What weight of leather do you sew, and what type of projects? There is no one machine that does everything. There are many threads in the Leather Sewing Machines forum that address your question. Read the pinned topics in the forum and call the sewing machine dealers at the top of the page and ask some questions. There is just tons of material here. Art

Knut, Healthy dairy cows are generally slaughtered and used in processed meat products when their dairy production declines. By processed products I mean things like soups, stews, canned meats, sausages, meatballs, etc., etc. The primal and sub primal cuts from any bovine over about 1.5 - 2 years is generally ungraded and cuts too black for fresh commercial (food store) presentation. Like you say, it is often tough, so they process it. However, beef that dies from "natural" causes is generally taken to a rendering plant which is the only imaginable outcome other than burial, if the skins can be harvested, processing into usable leather is probably the best possible outcome. I would imagine more of the hides are chrome processed into "distressed" product than may be advertised. Art

Campbell Bosworth -- http://campbell-bosworth.com/ http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/896?osCsid=6funrp8ns28q5o8mgjeut4ef76 http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1034?osCsid=6funrp8ns28q5o8mgjeut4ef76 http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1035?osCsid=6funrp8ns28q5o8mgjeut4ef76 Springfield Leather -- http://springfieldleather.com/store/content/36/Ask-Kevin/ http://springfieldleather.com/store/product/7842/Oil%2CSewing-Machine%2C32oz/ http://springfieldleather.com/store/product/7846/Oil%2CSewing-Machine%2C4oz/ Art

Hi Donna, 69 thread can be used with 100/16 all the way through 130/21 92 thread can be used with 120/19 up through 140/22 These are by all means just guidelines, your a application may require something different. I have found that you can go pretty small as long as you don't start fraying thread or have excessive needle breakage. Slowing down will help with the needle breakage. For example, I use a 120/19 needle with 138 nylon thread without fraying and if I don't push it good needle life. This is way outside the recommended range but gives me the look I want. Look is much more important with leatherwork than textiles. Going too big on the other hand can cause problems with desired stitch length and possible skipped stitches. Art

Glove snaps are the ones with the little paper clip like wires in the receiver part that holds onto the stud, they are even smaller than segma snaps (Ligne 16). Art

The Ligne 16 Segma Snaps are a little different, a male stud on top goes into a hole, sorry it is the only way to put it. They don't hold as well as the Ligne 20 and 24. Art

With those dollar constraints, you need to hit the used market for a Singer 111, 153, Pfaff 45 series or something like that. Talk to Nick Pittman at Nick-o-Sew 1-800-526-4256/(731)-779-9963, he refurbs that kind of stuff. You will need a slow motor (with reducer if possible) for it to be usable. Art

It may be the person doing the sewing. It is easy to try and pull the work while you are trying to put in a gusset or when stepping up or down in thickness. If you pull too hard, you will deflect the needle enough to strike the needle plate. Art

You don't know how easy you have it. Try measuring and then doing the math in fractions of an inch in your head. Makes you do it twice sometimes, but after a while it is second nature. We'll never go metric, it's just an English/American kind of thing. As for those 7.62NATO and 5.56NATO rounds or Ghod forbid 12.7x99mm NATO, when the manure hits the windmill, give me some .308, .223, or .50cal. Art

Hi Jason, Ligne 24 and 20 are the standard snaps, they are different in diameter. Ligne 20 snaps usually have a 3/16 post and are for 5oz to 7oz leather. Ligne 24 are bigger and usually have a 5/16 post and are for 8oz to 10oz leather. Those are general guidelines, you may be able to put a 24 on 5/6oz by setting harder, you just have to try them. Art

Hi Russ, I am pretty sure Artisan is the only one who has a 12 inch "441", and hasn't been producing them for a year yet. I would recommend that you get a 16" 441 clone. If you ever break a bobbin shaft on a 12", (and that happens) you will play hell getting a part. The 16" 441 parts are basically everywhere, because thousands of those machines have been built over the years and it is a stock part. Artisan has a 4000 machine that is a true 441 clone. So does Cobra, called a Class 4. The 441 clone machines are almost always on back order, the Chinese factories require cash in full upon order so in these times it makes cash flow a little difficult for the dealers. You just have to find one you can trust. PM me if you need more info. Art

AAAh, a Navy man. Art

No. Ligne 24 are also known as Durable Dot Snaps Ligne 20 are often called Baby Dot Snaps Ligne 16 are called Segma Snaps Then there are wire snaps which are called Glove snaps There are a bunch of others especially in the canvas trade. Art

The arch punches are excellent, however, they will generally have to be sharpened. Almost all CSO edged tools are that way. For a sharp punch, get a vintage one from Bob Douglas or Sheridan Leather Outfitters. For new punches, Weaver punches are good. Art

I always say No to toolkits/collections. It is better to buy quality tools over time, and only the ones you need for a project. Most of the tools at Tandy are lower quality than tools from independent makers. You won't buy a much better maul than the Bear man or Barry King makes. Paul Zalesack and Barry King make excellent swivel knives also, much better than Tandy. You can get excellent vintage tools from Bob Douglas, or from Sheridan Leather Outfitters. Barry King, Bob Beard, Lonnie Height, and others make excellent stamping tools. There are several excellent knifemakers that I can recommend, or a vintage knife from Bob is and option, but to start, the well polished utility knife and/or what I call a clicker knife will do the job. You are better off spending your money on several tools to do projects that are good quality than a whole kit of stuff you might not use a lot. A 15 piece set of very good 1018 stamping tools from Gomph-Hackbarth will do everything pretty much for about $165. Buy special stamps from Tandy to try them out, and if you use them a lot, get better ones. Try and go to a vendor show where you can put hand and tool to leather. There are always plenty of recommendations here, usually you get sound advice. Don't be afraid to ask. Art

You may have the belt too tight. Art