Shooter McGavin

Lobo made a good post a few weeks ago about the whole "one handed reholstering" phenomenon of late. I cant recall which thread it was in, but it made a lot of sense IMO. I do however force dry my holsters as well, using a big cardboard box, an old wire rack for support, and a small forced air portable heater. Works great.

So heres what I eventually came up with. I decided to do a pancake style with belt slots. I wish I would have had 2 mags to take the photo with.

Put together my first belt here recently. It is cowhide outer layer and horsehide inner layer. Both strips were coated with contact cement then rolled with a heavy pin. Then stitched. Edges were contoured and lightly burnished with saddle soap, then oiled somewhat generously with neatsfoot oil and left to sit for 4 days. Today I applied the Fiebings oil dye in black only on the front and edges, leaving the liner in raw horsehide and it looks great. So heres the question. Do I need to apply a sealant or is it OK to use as is? Or is it another one of those things where it's a matter of preference? It will be used to support a holster that I made to go with ( Glock 26 size with thumb break and 30 degree cant ) Thank you in advance. I will post finished photos once you guys learn me on if I have to apply a sealant or not.

Hey if were showing off our 44s here, can I post mine? S&W 629-6 3" ported barrel . Most people only shoot it once. I dont call it a range day unless I've ran 120 rounds through it. Note the .50AE ammo in the background

I've been ordering from Michigan Police Equipment. They never have them in stock but their prices on Rings guns are pretty good and they drop ship right to me in about a week.

I've had my Tippmann Boss for a couple of months yet, have sewn a couple belts, and lots of holsters. I wish I would have installed a stitch counter when it showed up. Anyway, I ordered an extra pack of needles as well. Havent changed one yet. Just wondering how I can tell when its time for a new needle, and also what kind of life everyone typically gets from theirs. Thanks!

haha. I used to make a living building lowrider car suspensions in my garage, until my lungs couldnt take it anymore. I still love metalworking, I just have to do it on a much smaller scale now.

Thanks guys. Yep, 1/8" stamps that are really meant more for marking steel, but I already had them so I figured why not use em The super sheen and satin sheen mix quite well. The super sheen is just too glossy for me on smooth black, and the satin is too dull. I ordered some Angelus 600 and 610, but with how super shiny the 600 is, I'm afraid to even open the 610 lol.

SO I was wrong. I get a very similar texture from using a terra cotta foot scrubber that I found at World Market. How did you get the black dye to lay only where it is? Im still trying to get that part figured out.

I'd say you done good

I think he's using the same thing I use, but I'll wait for his answer before I out myself lol.

Finished this one up today. 8/9 oz Hermann Oak, real shark trim, Fiebings Oil Black, Neatsfoot oil, gum trag'd interior, sealed in and out with a 2:2:1 mix of water:satin sheen:super sheen, shark sealed with full strength super sheen. 22° cant. Thoughts? Critiques? Comments?

The 45's are all around larger.

What do the belt loops look like on those? Flaps folded over from the top and stitched at the base to form a belt tunnel? Thanks you two!

I've got a couple people wanting dual mag carriers for single stack 1911's. Everything I draw up just seems way to big. I'm leaving 1" between the mags, which are riding straight up and down. The stitch lines for the mags are 1.9" apart. The centerline for the belt slots are .9 inches from the outside stitch line for the mag body. I know it will shrink some when I wet form it to the mags, but it just seems bulky. Wondering if anyone can provide some guidance on this. Maybe theres a much simpler, more compact solution. Thanks!

I found some screw covers at Home Depot to use on the eyelet side of the snap that rides against the gun. I have to use a small bit of adhesive to get them to stay but it works to keep the steel off of the gun.

I bought a Boss a few months ago and the first week or so was very frustrating. particle helped walk me through a lot of it and helped keep me sane. My biggest problem was that the top tension adjusters had a tendency to "self adjust". I was able to put a lock nut on the 1st tensioner, the 2nd one doesnt move too much so I just keep an eye on it. I used to tip of a small drill bit to make a mark in each of the tension knobs, and also the stitch spacer knob, so I had a reference point to know how far I was turning them, and also to see if theyre moving. Good luck and enjoy!

Looks nice. Might be worth mentioning that a lot of times, some sort of reinforcement behind the snap is a good idea. Keeps the leather nice and rigid so that it unsnaps the snap, instead of just folding over. I've tried kydex, rawhide, and steel. I think I like the idea of the rawhide best.

Nice work. My elephant holster got no love on a local gun forum. Had about 4 people tell me it looked sloppy. Enjoy the new addition!

0.0231, 0.0258, 0.0283

Only if thats 2 threads per inch, and the holster is for an M1 carbine.

I really doubt you mean 3/16 I use 277 top and bottom in my Boss also. Which is like 0.025" diameter