George B

Howdy All, I started building holsters about 3 months ago, before that it was western saddles. Holsters came about unexpectly and since has keep me busy, but I have to learn each style as it is requested. Mostly by trial and error and help of the members here in the forums. So far I have been able to do what is needed...however, I now have an order for a shoulder holster and a second I just recieved from a local gun dealer today and I can find very little information on how to start. I made one from the Al Stohlman-Tandy pattern, it was bulky, and after wearing it around the shop all afternoon with the pistol in it, it was just painfull as well. Is there anywhere a beginner at these can find basic info? Books? DVDs? Finished my first IWB for a Makarov and mag carrier custer was very happy. Thanks to all those that posted information and pics, especially to Lobo if he happens to read this. Thanks

The forming is tight enough that even with full clip it does not move when handled roughly, but that is a concern I will address in my next one. I used 9-10 oz. skirting leather and the form for the trigger guard will not depress or if so very little when lots of pressure is applied, but once again it is something I will look at with my next. Thanks for the advice.

In need of advice for improvement. I realize I need more leather above and below the belt slots to reduce stretch and breakage but what else do you think I need to do? This was made for a Springfield XD 40 cal 3.5" barrel.

Howdy all, here goes... Ordered a Montana Silversmiths 3 piece silver buckle set for a friend who wanted a nice dress belt. Everything is done but when I went to assemble the belt the tongue on the buckle wants to stick almost straight up and past the buckle over a 1/4 inch. At first I thought it was something I was doing wrong, but, after looking at everything it looks correct. What the heck do I do to get it to lay correctly and flat against the buckle? The last one I got from Tandy went on without a hitch, but the tongue came straight out from the tongue post that was even with the buckle. This one, the metal the tongue attatches to is 1/2 inch below the actual buckle. As always, any help will be greatly appreciated. George

Thank you all for your advice. I will specialize, for the review only, in western and wild bunch shooting holsters, belts and accessories, because in the end it is what I enjoy doing and fits right in with saddles. I ordered my dummy guns from blueguns at Rings, boy are they nice people to deal with. Also called Ruger about actual guns that they used to sell for holster makers, unfortunately they no longer do that, but once again they were just great to deal with. Duncans Outdoor, never did return my call, probably too big for a little ol' business like mine. Once again, thanks to everyone who gave me input, George

Hi again All, First let me say, "thank you, to all the members who have given me and others info and advice". Nobody pays you to do it and it takes time. I have a local gun reviewer with a popular online site I visited for awhile yesterday afternoon. He looked over the holsters and belts I had made for a local gun store, that need to be delivered this week. He asked me what I specialized in. So far it has been a mix, western, high ride, sporting and hunting, so I could not give him an answer. My question is this...He wants a holster and belt to review that will show what I would specialize in, what would be the one that compensates me the best for my efforts? I enjoy carving and western the most, but is there enough market out there to keep me busy and profitable? He stated that the last custom holster and belt maker he reviewed has since hired an additional seven people to keep up with orders, and this is from Alaska. I started out building saddles, have been doing holsters and belts about 3 months to pay the bills since saddles have dropped off locally. I'm looking to get rich, not in ,my line of work, but I do want to be successful and pay the bills. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated. George

I copied and pasted the post Posted 01 October 2010 - 07:15 AM Rylas, on 30 September 2010 - 03:13 PM, said: Hi guys, I've been trying to make a lined ipod case but I just can't wrap my head around the best way to line it and have it look good (or even work good). I've tried cutting the pigskin to size and gluing it only to realize that it creates ugly folds in the bottom when I actually fold it up to stitch. I've also tried cutting an oversized piece and trimming it after stitching, but it leaves ugly edges even if I dye them. Any tips to make this work better? Thanks! That's an easy one, . . . lay your vegetable tanned leather face down on the work table. Do the same with your pigskin lining. Now cover the back sides of each with Weldwood contact cement, available at any local lumber and most hardware stores. When it is dry, . . . about an hour or so, . . . can be done sooner if you are very careful in using a heat gun, . . . lay the veggie tan glued side on top of the pig skin glued side, . . . cover with a pillow case or something to protect the face of the veggie tan leather, . . . roll it with a rolling pin. You now have basically one thickness of leather to work with, . . . make your ipod case from it. We do this all the time making holsters. May God bless, Dwight

Thanks, I tried the rolling pin after allowing to set for about 20 mins using Barge's all-purpose cement, a method I read on another thread and it turned out great. I also did the bend for the buckle before applying the pigskin and all turned out well. This forum is like the "Library of Congress" on leatherwork! My hat off to all those who take time to contribute and post tutorials, you have saved my rear a few times. George

Hi all, quick question. Do I curl the gun belt when gluing on the pigskin? I do with holsters, and just wondered if I do the same thing with belts to keep the skin from bunching up when used. Thanks, George

I asked that question a couple of years ago in school and was informed by the teacher that he had never come across one. Being right handed it has not been a big problem, except for around the fork and the sweep of the seat at the cantle when forming the ground seat, then I could definitely use one. I have looked and found nothing in a left handed skiver. Tandy and weaver both have what tandy calls a "super skiver", more like a cheese slicer, that can be used with either hand, I'm okay with it left handed but not with finish work. I see a lot of people using them so my lack of ability with it must be due to lack of practice.

More holkters and belts completed, getting the hang of it so far. I call this one the "Wild Duke", yes I know it's not the customary half-breed, that's coming. Fit for most M1911s with or without adjustable sights. Veg tanned liner with SS roller buckle. Brown, stamped, and lined gunbelt for heavy use. 2-1/2" wide, with SS buckle This was made for a S&W Highway patrolman, woman's rig as per request, I call it the "Crazy Jane"

Hi Katass, yeppers, that gives me a better idea of where the trigger guard will be. When I did the modified pattern I thought the area around the rear sight looked a little funny, but now I see by the pic it is right. Thank you very much, it was very helpfull. George

Howdy all, I need to make a quick draw holster for a S&W Model 28 with a 4" barrel. I have a pattern from the Tandy Busacero book but it has a finger slot for the trigger. I do not have acces to the weapon and could use a little advice on how to modify the pattern I have. Anyone with experience with this?

Well, I've learned enough about holsters and belts to become a danger and a menace with a side of leather. It's been trial and error trying to perfect my work and I have more orders coming in. Let's just say I sometimes am spinning my wheels and wasting money doing it my way. It just aint workin'! So here's my question...what dvd intructional material is the best? I've had schooling and experience with saddles now for over a year. Winter has been rough so the riders are not out yet and the economy hasn't helped. But, I've been recieving more orders for holsters and belts, some western, some not, and well, gotta feed the family. I've heard about the Dusty Johnson DVD, but have also read where it did not explain some saftey straps and I need someting that gives me a lot of info. Heard of george Hurst, but cannot find any links to his videos. And, I've seen info on the Bianchi DVD set. At this point, if the Bianchi is the best I don't mind spending the money, but as of late I've bought some how to books and patterns that left alot to be desired and burn a whole bunch of leather and time. If you have any of the dvds listed let me know what you think. I did this one last week and have one oiled up in russet drying, getting ready to start another in black and have a buscadero I'm working on

Thanks for the info. I'll go to both sites and see what I can get. I had the good luck to just repair a 40 year old "George Lawrence" holster and belt. Learned a lot and made a pattern. Oh, and the customer could not even tell the rig had been repaired, I'm getting better every job.

Got talked into doing 3 of these for a friend with black dogs, now I've done 2 more for his nephew. Just done and oiled awaiting drying. Not the greatest, but hey, they're free.

Three new holsters I just made, this makes about 5 or 6 total. Studied the info on here for my first skirt holster and it turned out okay. Thanks all! Gov .45 5 inch barrel The Black Bart skirt holster for a Heritage 22 cal. rough rider fixed sights The Cimarron for a Ruger Single-six 22 cal. adjustable sights

Hey everyone, In the past I've made saddles, unfortunately or fortunately, the economy dropped off and sales and repairs have lagged to say the least. I had a customer call about making a holster and cartridge belt, hadn't done one yet so i went ahead and made him one for his 45-70 GOV. pistol. He loves it, but, I took it around to some local gun dealers and now I have orders for six holsters and belts. Some of them are cowboy rigs for wanna be cowboys with a hankering for quick draws, I haven't a clue on where to start. Can anyone recommend a book or tutorial on low slung quick draw rigs? I need to start making them soon so any info would be greatly appreciated. The first one is for a heritage single six with the shorter barrel.

Hi All, another question for all the leather Gurus out there. I have a customer that wants a Bronc halter. I have patterns and such for a regular halter but cannot find what makes it a "Bronc halter". The only difference I can see from looking around is the size of the nose band. What am I missing? She wants me to bid on a number of them for her local riding club as trophies. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Made this for a local customer. First one I've made, and boy do I like making holsters. Instant grattification compared to the time it takes to make a saddle. Monster rigg for a monster pistol. Magnum Research 25-70 Gov. I built the belt oversized to make it more comfortable to wear out hunting. I'll punch holes and cut off excess after sizing to fit owner. Please let me know what I should do different next time.

Hi All, I have my first paying customer for a holster and cartridge belt for a Magnum Research 45-70. I completed the holster and all is fine there, however, the belt has me thinking and re-thinking the design. The cartidges are 2-1/2' long and the belt must hold at least 5 of them as well as all the weight of the monster pistol. I understand how to do the cartridge loops and the belt itself will be 3" wide, I plan on using a double belt for a smooth surface around the waist and having the buckle on the outside of the inner leather to keep the buckle from rubbing and digging. Is there anything I am missing here? Any, and I mean, any, suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Decided to do something a lil' different on some stirrups and do some weaving with lace on the ouside. The first pair turned out as one would expect...like a first pair. However, i learned a lot from them and the second pair came out almost flawless.

I like that! Could make a good logo as well. Thanks

Hi All, looking for advice on changing the name of my custom western saddle business. As of now it is "Popping Rock Saddlery" and I find the name hard to remember and difficult to get across to customers I talk to. Here's the dilema... I live in a little town named Dover, Tennessee. I would like to rename my shop "Dover TN. Saddlery" or "Dover TN. Saddles" but I do not want potential customers to think I am Dover English saddles or a dealer. But, it would be much easier for customers to remember and gives a clear impression of where I am located. Any input or opinion would be welcome.