George B

Welcome from a fellow Tennessean.

Welcome. Dover, tn here.

Always enjoy looking at your work, well done!

I buy from Ring's when I need something and normally the wait is the same for everyone else. However, I needed a couple of dummy mags real fast a couple of weeks ago. When I called I didn't get John or Carl, seems there was a new guy taking orders. He told me the mags were not in stock at the moment, I explained my situation and he said he would mold them for me and get them out the next morning. I received them 3 days later. Can't remember his name and not sure it wasn't a fluke, but it worked out fast. You will also pay retail, but you can request USPS Priority Mail and save a little.

Beautiful!

Varies on the weight for me. I live close enough to Penn. that it runs About $40-45 for two to three sides of 8-9 oz. I'll stick with W&C until something I like better comes along. I ordered 3 sides of HO a while back, two a grades and a b grade all had enough wrinkles over the entire side to make it impossible to make anything that didn't look like bull hide. Tried using it on a belt and it creased everywhere there was a wrinkle on it. Never had that happen with W&C. That said, W&C has had it's drawbacks over the years.

They look great! The finish and colors work really well on them.

Fortunately he is not a kydex or plastic kind of person, the boy likes his leather. Light dye touch up then a coat or two of Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax. Let it dry up and buff like hell.

Thanks everyone for the nice comments. Yep, he's lefty. I don't think he will ever use it on duty but right now when he goes into the woods he uses the typical plastic Glock holster and I figured this would be a little more secure. George

I burnish or use pro edge dressing on every edge of the reinforcement throat I will not be able to get to once they are stitched together. Color of the edge varies, natural, brown or black. I seem to determine the color of the edges by which color thread I use. Then after attaching the reinforcement throat, while still flat, I do the sanding and edges of the top and bottom up to the body stitch lines. Dampen, fold over and stitch the holster together. Sand and dress or burnish the body edges, dunk and form. Any edge touch up will be done after drying.

First attempt at a duty style holster for my Nephew. Goes into the academy in January and figured it would make a nice Christmas gift. Made for a Glock G23. 9 oz. drum dyed W&C skirting leather. Extra sight path for the new sights.

I think maybe you are mistaking the strainer for the ground seat. I have used a couple of Rawlide trees and have always put the leather ground seat in. The leather ground seat is what allows you to get the shape, rise and feel of the seat. Adding, skiving and doing so until the seat feels the way you want. The preformed plastic seat (strainer) should allow you to do away with the installation of the strainer and strainer bars. But as stated earlier, if the seat feels good to your bottom and has the rise you want, you can do without the leather ground seat. The only problem I have seen with those trees used without a leather ground seat is that they tend to cave in around the stirrup slots and can look sunken in after a while.

Thanks Dwight I'll give it a shot. In regards to the horizontal rigs, I'm of a similar mind as Dwight on why I don't make them. Take the example of the rookie detective that hugged a fellow detective at her first anniversary party. Gave him a big old hug from behind and his weapon went off. Right through her heart. Made a couple early in my leather work and saw the errors of my ways. Same goes for the rigs with the barrel pointed upward at an angle. The person behind you at the Quickie-mart is the one in danger from either a chest shot or a head shot. That's the person I'm thinking of when I say "NO". "Never point your weapon at anything you don't want to lose". Heard that once and keep it in mind every time I'm asked to do a horizontal rig. Let the big companies like Galco, who have the money, fight the court battles.

Thanks Dwight, makes a lot more sense now. I do believe this is my last shoulder rig with an angle. I don't do horizontals and every one of these "special request" rigs has taken more time then they are worth. This one has made me a believer, vertical or nada. Thanks again and all the best, George

I have been trying for a couple of days now to get a working pattern for a shoulder holster barrel down at a 45 degree angle. Can anyone tell me where to attach the back strap piece at the barrel end that would allow the angle without the aid of a belt strap? I made a couple of prototypes raising the attachment at the barrel end closer to horizontal level with the one at the rear sight. And although it gave some angle it looked damn awful. I know I am over-thinking this and hopefully someone with more common sense can help. The pistol is a Beretta Storm full size. I just hate contacting the customer for more time because I'm too dumb to figure this out. Any help would be appreciated. George

Hey Shooter it looks outstanding! They are a beast of a pistol. Used the dark brown in the same dye and it ran me and a customer out of the shop. Opened it up wide to get the stink out. Coverage wasn't even, seemed like it wanted to go in great in spots and some not so much. Used mine up making some holsters I called "distressed brown" and sold them at the gun shows. Of course I took them outside to dye.

A pic of the item would help. But, I keep 7 or 8 sides of leather under my bench most times and store them loosely rolled keeping the heavier sides on the bottom. I go through the sides fairly quickly so it has not been an issue. English bridle can be a different story and tends to wrinkle the finish side if kept rolled.

Looks very nice, keep up the good work.

Check http://www.theclip.com/store/home.php Not sure what you are paying but they do have quantity pricing. I have bought in small quantities as needed and have been very satisfied with the quality, selection and speed of delivery.

I've had a couple with the same problem. In both cases the customer was good enough about it to bring me the 1911 and make a new one. Fully formed and detailed Avengers and belt slots, I have to have the 1911 or the exact dummy gun to guaranty fit. There are way too many variations on 1911s for a detailed one size fits all holster. In my humble opinion. Since starting gun shows I now make Avengers with a tension screw and belt slots with a little more forgiveness in stitch line and barrel length. For a detailed holster I do require the actual 1911. Has cut down a little on that model sales but with a lot less stress and customer complaints. I can deal with that. On the flip side, I always sell out of the "generic" 1911 holsters at each show. You attempted to correct the problem for your buyer, that's all you can do in my opinion.

I just cut a piece of waterproof or emery 220 grit sandpaper about 2 to 3 inches by the same wide. Roll it up tight and allow it to expand once in the slot. Back and forth for the length and in and out in the tops and bottoms. Sometimes finish with 320 grit. Works for me better than a dremmel.

The holster Dwight found is a holster that I have made a few times now and as an snap loop or standard pancake works just fine. I have not made an IWB with the same cant but it probably is just a matter of adjusting the pattern for use with clips. And you may want to consider degree of the angle, as others have said the amount of grip and where it will end up when worn. When used outside the ears will curve and form with the body and allow more grip but I'm not sure that you will still get that when used IWB. If I can be of any help pm me.

Lefty Avengers, pancakes and belt loop holsters I just flip the pattern. I always mark left and right on the pattern after making. Both the main body and the throat. Other than machine stitching going the opposite direction there should be no difference in the finished holster other than one is left and one is right. Others will do it differently but so far it has never failed me.

The only obstacle I see would be the rail at the bottom. It is fairly pronounced and if molding you would need to extend the forming of the rail. I have made for the sr40c using the full size, by forming the bottom after forming the upper area of the pistol. If it is not going to be tightly formed you could probably get away with it.