George B

Thanks a bunch guys. I was doing real well, no big mistakes and everything was coming along well. Then I read the posts here and everything went to hell fast. Second guessed my stitch line on a holster, shouldn't have done that. Didn't fit the pistol at all. I should not have done that, but, after searching through my dummy guns I found one that fit it perfectly. Still had to make another but at least I can eventually sell the first one. Then I made a double layer carry belt. Spent hours tooling assembling. De-glazed then dipped. The dye job came out blotchy and almost non existent in spots. Bit my tongue and mustered up the strength not to let it fly across the shop, set aside and let it dry. Next day went out wiped it down carfully with denatured alchohol and dyed it a darker brown by hand (insert sigh of relief here). I won't mention some of the other little boo-boos I made last week as they were all correctable, just took additional time. I learned three good lessons from all this... 1. Do not question or second guess my original stitch lines. 2. Dye my pieces first, before I stamp or tool. 3. Never read anything about any one else's screw ups EVER again! Somehow it rubs off on me.

Hi All, Started using Dot Dura stainless steel snaps about a month ago, needed better snaps. Today, went to set a snap on the holster I am finishing and had a problem...setter was just pushing the post right out the back. Looking at the setter (Craft tool), I see where the snaps have gouged out an indentation in the flat top of the crown and not allowing the post to curl over. I would have to say it is because the stainless steel is harder than the metal used to make the setter. Called Tandy, no big surprise, they didn't know what the problem was. Ordered two more so I can get some work done and decided to see if there is a better snap setting tool out there. I am using a modified 1/2 ton arbor press that has been drilled to accept the shank of the tool. My two questions are... 1. Do I need a special setter for stainless steel line 24 snaps? 2. Does anyone know of a better, more durable, shank style snap setter? Thanks, George

Thank you so very much for posting this. I had a customer who wanted an ankle holster for his .32 cal derringer, your tutorial made it easier than I thought. Turned out great! Now I can start making my own patterns and designs. George

Looks real good Frank! My favorite thing to make is western and cowboy, unfortunately I mostly get concealed carry. Keep up the great work.

I have to agree about the stitch line, it needs to be closer to the weapon to insure a tighter fit. You may also want to raise the belt slots a little higher. Not sure because I have not worn your holster, but it may have a tendency of wanting to pull out from the body at the grip. Revolvers have been the hardest for me to make pancakes for. So many different widths can make getting a close stitch difficult. Here is a pic of the last one I did for a Ruger Blackhawk.

I just ordered replacement snaps today. Wanted stainless so went to Dot snaps online. They have durable snaps with machine thread screws 3/16" 3/8" and 5/8" long post. Only problem is min. order is $50. I have also used perfectfit.com The type of snap is found in a lot of marine fastner companies. I think the thread is 8-32 on the ones I ordered.

Found these guys looking for clips in stainless steel. Had a customer with a nickel allergy. Quantity discounts available but they are not the cheapest around, however, I have found almost every style and size clip I have needed and shipping is low and fast. www.theclip.com

Hi Paul, I have been using W&C drum dyed for 3 years and have had mostly great results with it. Just this morning I dip dyed 3 carry belts in black. Ran out of useable leather in drum dyed black but had a side of W&C natural. OMG what a mess! The gloves had holes in 2 fingers and now I'm sportin' a couple of black dyed fingers. I ordered 3 sides right after, one medium brown and 2 in black, it is so much easier and saves a bunch of time. Plus I get to go to town without any fingers lookin' like I didn't wash well.

I started do some holster work a few months ago using horse butts and been starting to have a big problem with inconsistent weights and or thickness. Just after the first of the year I had some orders using horse butt, normally I will use a 7 to 9 oz. single layer, mostly for Avenger style holsters. Ordering was hard enough, it took six phone calls to different suppliers with only two having anything in stock. Ordered three butts from each of the suppliers, one 5-7 oz. and two 7-9 oz. for a total of six butts. The cost per butt had gone from roughly $12 to $22-$25 a butt. Okay, I was getting good money for the orders so cost was not too much of a problem. Then I received the butts. Only two of the butts measured out to the correct weight, a 7-9 and a 5-7. The rest were way under. Most were lucky to hit 5 oz. at the thickest part I could find and one tops out a whopping 4 oz. Needless to say I have broken even or lost MY Butt on each of the orders. Most had to be dual layer and the additional work that had to be done killed any profit I was hoping to see. The thinnest butt I have not used for anything, about the only thing I'll use it for are bullet loops or hammer thongs. Anyone else had this problem? Is there a supplier out there right now that sends the weights you purchase? Thanks, George

Thanks everyone. Customer picked it up and was very happy, ordered another for a Star and it just happens that I have a good pattern in the style he wants. It took more time with this one but I'll make it back with the new one. Sometimes things do work out okay. And Dwight, I would have to think anyone carrying a single action is crazier than I am. I'm running like all get out.

Customer asked for a pancake CCW holster for his Ruger Blackhawk. Definitely the strangest request yet. Originally it had straps for a thumb break safety and then customer called and wanted to remove them. Not a problem, but I would have shaped the holster a little different if I had known he would change his mind. The most important thing I learned? Next time charge more for this oddball stuff that will require extra time to burn a prototype. Sorry the pic is not great but it already put me behind in schedule.

I have been using the Tandy in 1/8" and 1/4" they work well. The only things I don't like are the dome head screws would rather have flat. And that they cost more. Other than that they have a good finish and I've never had one strip out.

Rings has two levels of quantity pricing, dealer is $1000 min. order and distributor is $2000. After the opening order you can order as little as one item at the same price. Call John at Rings and he will email you the cost sheets.

Great looking holster Particle. I know what you mean about too many firsts, but you pulled it off quite well.

The customer and I both called and talked with Coonan and after a few discussions they made me a veru basic dummy gun. Now I just need the time on it with my dremmel to do all the detail work. The customer sent me one his mags and I made some wood dummies. I am currently working with Coonan on a non functioning pistol to make ccw holsters.

Been a while since I posted pics of recent work off the bench, but, this one was a fun one so I thought I would. Customer in Utah wanted something to take his Coonan out to the desert with so we came up with something old school. Holster and leg strap are modeled off of the 1912 Expeditionary War style, belt and mag pouches are mine. Holster is Wickett & Craig 8-10 oz. russet skirting leather with a 3 oz. lining. Belt is dual layer 8 oz of the same. Mag pouches are 5 oz. russet with 5 oz. flap reinforcements. Brass Sam Browne studs on all. Thanks for looking.

Hi Piddler, Seems these days there a lot of sources for Blue guns on line, with similar sale prices. I found myself spending way too much time searching through them comparing prices, shipping and delivery times. Time I could have been spending on the work bench making money. I also got tired of telling internet customers I could not help them due to the lack of dummy gun. I opted to save up enough for a min. dealer order from Ring's, read the forums for recommended lists and then placed my order. Some I make money on, some not so. But, I did learn some things. No one out there selling Ring's Blue Guns is getting rich doing it. I think retail on most handguns is $50, the most common sale price on line is $39. So, that leaves shipping costs and delivery time. In the past I have found both free and paid shipping can take up to a month with some on line sellers. Probably due to drop shipping. I have found very few that had both a competitive price and fast delivery, but there are some out there. One I have used in the past was Alternate Force and they were pretty good. I have also seen RMB mentioned here in the forums with positive comments and recommendations. I guess what I am trying to say, is that depending on fast you need the dummy can be more important than a few dollars. And, is the time you are spending searching for the perfect price costing you money in time away from the bench. These are just my own observations.

I had the same problem with the thread from Weaver. It was okay at the start of the spool and then about 1/2 to 1/3 left it started kinking so bad it would pop out of the tension guides. Customer service at Weaver told me it was due to the black dye used in thread. Well, it did it with white also. So much for Weaver's tech support. I figured it was the direction of winding on the thread or the spools and ordered some to replace it with the correct direction from the thread exchange, I think out of Nashville. Now I can use the entire spool without issues. I had to check the manual for my machine to find the correct winding. The thread they were selling me from Weavers was not the correct thread for my machine. I called the Thread Exchange and the person was very helpful. Hope this can help.

Have both sewn and stapled, both ways worked equally well but the staples were quicker to do for me. I started using the same method as Bianchi, sewing it into the main body of the belt. It bothered me that if there was an issue with the keeper, it would be more difficult to replace. I now use the floating keeper.

Welcome aboard Brother Marine and Semper Fi. Thank you for your service and I hope you find your time here enjoyable. Tons of great information and help from the members are to be found in the forums and I hope you do well in everything you do. Where did they station you this time? Happy New Year! George

I use PC-7 epoxy paste, mix it, put it on, let it cure for 24 hours then sand it down to what you want. Dries harder than the blue gun plastic and will last forever, maybe. Have to wait a few days to see if forever is coming after the end of the Mayan calander doomsday prophecy.

Welcome and some nice work. Originally from Galesburg but know Peoria well.

Had the same problem with my first one, drove me crazy. Took one apart and had the same problem, it was useless for a pattern. Ended up making one out of posterboard using a couple of french curves. Now that I've done a few it's much easier. The first one I made was horrible, but it taught me a whole bunch and now hangs on my wall of shame with notes attached on it of what not to do. I still pull it down and use it as a guide every time I make one. Biggest mistake was not watching my stitchline on the main body of the belt in correspondence with where the billets were going. When I sewed on the billets the needle in my stitcher found a whole bunch of them, cut the thread and looked terrible.

Never really thought about it much, but it is definitely time to dust off the old dust mask. Thanks!

Have to agree with Cyberthrasher, some customers are just easier to deal with than others. A couple of my worst have turned into my best advertisement tool. I have decided not to take some projects due to extremely bad attitudes and some I just felt I would never have been able please. And yes, a couple I took on that still haunt me today. I have no PITA charge, just a yes or no.