Eaglestroker

I recently pick up this little snub nose K-frame that has replaced my 4" as an always on me gun. Ashamed and somewhat of a hypocrite when working at the shop late nights I'd tuck it Mexican style walking to my truck as I hadn't had time to make any leather for it. I decided to give this style a try as it seemed it would lend well to a compact package. I already know a few things I would do differently but would like to here some different opinions. I think the 'wings' need to extend further from the gun and possibly be wider. I haven't had a snap come undone but the rig really seems to tug at them and I'm somewhat worried about it trying to tip out as it breaks in.

That looks like EXCELLENT work. Great job!

I always have, with no ill affects. Why stop now?

Nice work Bountyhunter! This is one I made for my grandfather back at Christmas time. And this was my first lined holster. It doesn't look nearly this nice anymore, but it's not quite as bad as Bounthuners is, yet anyways. If I were making another crossdraw I would use the first ones cant with a thumbreak. That is just what I would like to try next.

Never seen one of yours I didn't like Adam. Looks great as always!

John, I always use split pigskins as its very lightweight. The thicker the material the more hassle it is getting the glue to hold. I use contact cement to attach the neoprene pad, then the same to attach the pad, then stitch. I ordered a large quantity of the neoprene and would be happy to send you a small piece to try. After its stitched I go back and trim the excess material close to the stitching. I mark the stitch line and use my awl to mark the bottom corners and top of the arc to locate the pad, which is only slightly smaller than the area. Hope this helps! -Robert

I think username MADMAX22 makes the nicest I have seen, you may ask him what he uses or do a search for some eye candy. I use 8-10 oz as even with the smallest solid chicago screws they won't tighten up on two layers of lighter leather. The pad is personal preference - I just try to cover the shoulder.

The only issue I ever had was black was when I first started out. I don't know what changed but it's never been an issue since I switched from USMC Black ro Profession Oil Black. I tried super sheen once. It made the whole holster bleed and stained my beautiful white stitches. That stuff when in the trash.

I really like the Elephant, the Cape Buffalo, and the thumb break rig. Sure wish I could do detail boning like that! -Robert

Been there, had a thread about that. Recently while field trialing my new over creation I left it sitting a little to long. It was still a nice holster, so I antiqued the finish I usually wear my reminders.

Excellent work!

What do you call that type of lacing on that last sheath? All excellent work my friend, and excellent pictures as well.

Nate, I like it a lot! -Robert

My strap punches are Osborne and I've been happy with them. I do use the oversized punches. Regarding for the buckle I have used an Osborne oblong punch in 7/8" length before, the problem I run into is every belt and buckle are different. I typically just park each end with the punch, cut the straight lines, then punch the holes.

I made it work early the way you are speaking. I recommend the right size punch even though it's a tough pill to swallow. The point of the punch is to reduce time and be consistent, if you waste the time saved by screwing with placement what was the point? I can't speak for oval punches I use round.

Excellent Work!!

Do you have anymore pictures of that first piece? Excellent work as always!

CT, I got this tip from a wise old Hawaiin man telling me about 1907 slings one morning. Wet the leather. I still only use W&C Leather but jotted that note down to myself.