Go2Tex

Thanks for clearing that up.

I guess I didn't make it clear what I am asking. Is there a difference between bridle leather and rein leather, other than the length and weight that it comes in? Or, is it primarily a marketing name pertaining to the usage, i.e. bridles vs. reins and all the same tannage? If Siegel carries both bridle and rein in both backs and butts, surely there must be some difference! If so, WHAT? Maybe I should just call them and ask. duh. Of course they'll say there is, but can you believe them? Do they even know for sure? Thanks for the comparison of Weaver to Sedgwick. I guess I'll know soon enough if the Weaver bridle leather I ordered is going to work for me. If not, then I guess I'll spring for the Sedgwick and find out for myself. Price is sometimes indicative of quality and if they are asking that much it might just be because people are willing to pay for it. Their Cahin latigo is not bad but not great. The brown is a little limp and the color isn't very deep. The black is pretty nice though. Makes good strings and tie straps. The burgandy is not as good as their old premium. That's for sure. I suspect their bridle will be about the same. I'd try the Hermann Oak bridle but there's no quarantee of quality with them anymore either. It's all pretty much a crap shoot. Wickett & Craig is also raising their prices, I suspect in response to the falling value of the Dollar since it's coming from Canada now. (thank you socialist government monetary policies and enviro-nazi EPA regulation). Maybe they should keep the spew and charge a little less. I'll look for the new product, though.

Thanks for the reply. Siegel Leather of California sells J & E Sedgwick English leathers and offers the rein and bridle in either butts or backs. Since I have not tried it myself, my question is mainly whether or not there is an actual, appreciable difference in the tannage of the two, and not just the cut or thickness. I gather from your answer that there is not. I have on order a side of so-called "English" bridle leather from Weaver, but without any actual experience with the Sedgwick product, I'm wondering if anyone has tried both and could advise if the Sedgwick leather is worth more than double the cost. I suspect the price of the English leather is reflective of the drop in the value of the Dollar vs the Pound and the cost of importation and shipping. Siegel currently prices their Rein back at $321.80 per 16-17 sq ft,(average). Butts are $275 per 11-12 sq ft average. Both are the same thickness, 4-4.5mm. (10-11 oz). Their bridle backs and butts are 3.5-4mm.

Is there any real difference between bridle and rein leather, other than perhaps the thickness available? Does it actually have a different tannage? Is the rein leather just more pliable? And other than Siegel, does anyone know of another supplier of the true, english rein/bridle leather that might be less expensive? How about the best known alternative domestic product of bridle or rein leather?

Nice cutter. Looks very typey, clean, and sharp. Fit and finish is so precise it almost looks machine made. Very nice horn cover and wrap. Could you give some specs? - tree maker, size, swell width, skirt size, final weight.

Yeah, I read that article, and I thought it put a pretty good face on the Mexican tanneries but I had to wonder if it wasn't just a wee bit biased, if it's the same one. The only tannery featured that didn't walk on water was the one from India, I think and it basically said their leather stinks. That article?

Well, as always the information that pours from this forum is just amazing! I am never disappointed in the responses and quality of the information so willingly provided by so many. Thank you all very much. Judging by the mixed reviews, it seems, I have little choice at this point but to buy some and give it a whirl for myself. I will do ya'll the favor of a report on my findings. It is the least I can do, and the proper and fair thing to do for the supplier of this leather, so they have a chance to dispell any misconceptions and bad impressions or, failing that, to confirm them. I hope for their sake and, more importantly for my own and that of my customers, that it is the former. The initial appearance and workability of the leather is one thing, and important, but I am quite concerned to say the least about the comments regarding the durability of it. When looking for a supplier, one needs to be able to count on a consistent product quality, something that seems to be universally unreliable at the present time from almost any of the suppliers. Apparently, there is only one thing one can expect from the leather industry with any degree of certainty, and that is it will be predictably inconsistent!

I'm interested in anyone's opinion or reviews of Thoroughbred Leather. I have not tried it, but am looking for another source for drum dyed brown. They have a walnut brown skirting, that I'd like to try. Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Erasers will remove the cement fairly well, but the cement will seal the leather and prevent oil and dye from penetrating. I get this problem A LOT on my edges where I'm stitching 2 parts together, lining tack, saddle skirts, etc. Of course, the best solution is to not put so much glue on in the first place and be more careful. But, having said that, and done that, there is always that little bit that does ooze out especially when burnishing. I've tried every toxic substance known to Man trying to remove it and probably destroyed a good portion of my brain cells in the process with inconsistent results. Actually, wine seems to destroy them the best..... eh...... But, anyhow, back to the glue. You can find in your local auto parts store a rather expensive product used to remove tar and pitch from your car and it works about the best for removing contact cement.

Yeah, now that's the ticket. Thanks for the input.

No respect. No respect, I tell ya!

No disrespect taken. The way I dish it out sometimes, I guess I'm entitled to a little of the same. But, thanks for the advice on that tincture of benzoin. I'll look for it and give it a try. It must be a bit like Tuff Skin maybe?

Oh yeah, Sonic drive-ins! I avoid the place like the plague. Just the blaring music alone is enough to lock up my brakes and throw the truck into reverse and lay rubber out of the lot. I couldn't tell ya what the food is like. Can't get past the damn music. Sorry, I digress....

Thanks for the nugget and the compliments. I agree with your assessment of the "problem" which, usually isn't a problem. But, it's always nice to have a solution or two up your sleeve besides, "You'll get used to it", or "Well Sir, nobody else is complainin'". Or one reply that would really go over big, "Well Sir, if you were just a better rider...." I'm afraid I'm just not tactful enough to make that one work.

Hey Bruce, yep we wintered well. Can't say as much for our citrus trees. Lost my lime tree. I was growing real partial to those tree ripened limes for my gin tonics and tacos. It's deader than hell now though. I did a seat with the bead and sanded it until it was like velvet. Worked real nice but took a lot of work.

Thanks. Much appreciate the compliments. I'm looking for something a customer could apply to their saddle to give it more grip. I would do as you suggest if I had it available, but it's not local.

I ain't upset. Why would I be upset over a little comic relief? I am known to engage in it myself from time to time.

Thanks for the ideas there, Pard. I'll take it under advisement. Now, anybody else have any serious ideas?

The problem: The western saddle "slick" seat usually becomes very slick with use and some riders complain and seek a more secure seat. Besides sanding or finger carving, has anyone tried anything else with any degree of success? Is there a product, that can be applied to the seat after construction to reduce the slipperiness that does not alter the appearance too much?

Well, I did a bit of experiementation on the baking soda trick and I am happy to report that it did dye the leather brown! It appears that with each additional dunking, it got darker. It does have a more purplish tint to it, as opposed to a redish brown. Oiling darkens it up nicely, similar to the way vinegaroon turns the gray into black. If you are looking for a lighter brown than what you can achieve with dye, this looks like a good alternative to try. A quick dunk will do it. This picture is before oiling. The mixture was about 2 TBSP of soda in a quart jar of water about 3/4 full. It is a bit more soda than saturation, or in other words, more soda than would disolve completely.

I might try airbrushing and seal with a suede waterproof product. But, thanks for tip on the baking soda. It doesn't have to be a perfect match. I'll play around with it and see what it does. Mucho gracias.

Thanks Troy. Depending on the source, the flesh side can be quite unpredictable in appearance. I normally don't request buffing because I've found they can thin it down too much. I never knew how they did it. A belt sander could really ruin a side quick. I would have guessed they used some kind of large orbital buffer. I like your idea of using the hand sander, though. But then, the question remains, how do I darken it up to match a dark brown saddle? How about oil darkening stain? Does it rub off like dye?

Here is the problem. Usually the flesh side of drum dyed leather comes unbuffed, as it would be necessary to re-dye after buffing at the tannery. Apparently it can be requested, but has anyone had this done and to what degree of satisfaction? Would the coloration be as uniform as before buffing and of a suitable appearance for a roughout saddle? Plus, does this re-dye at the tannery hold up to future sanding to buff up the nap, like after oiling, etc. What I would like to avoid somehow is the stark contrast between the roughout parts, (seat and fender), and the rest of the saddle that is dyed a dark brown. I realize it will eventually be that way, but how could I darken it evenly without a lot of hand rubbing and then loss of the roughout nap as occurs with very well used saddles? Am I barking up the wrong tree here, or what? Is it even a possibility or worth the effort? Just use it as is, oil it up and set it out in the sun for a few days?

Again, thank you all very much for the kind words and compliments. It is particularly encouraging in these hard times.

Somehow I knew this was coming.... Maybe we can start a new topic on why it might work for Sweden or maybe why it really doesn't work as well as you think and who actually pays for it. I just want less government, not more, thank you.