Anne Bonnys Locker

$300!!??!! If I could get that sort of money for the collection of 15's and clones I have here I could retire! They are great machines to learn the basics of sewing on and you can even do garment weight leather on them but not suitable for holsters. A good 15 clone (and in some ways they are better than the original Singer) is a good machine to buy for $20 to muck around with and take up your jeans. I would have about a dozen Singer 15's (from the -1 to k88) as well as another dozen Japanese clones. Recently I imported a current Chinese built 15 and most of the words I have to say about it are not included in the dictionary.

Hi Betty, The main thread on selecting a machine concentrates on types and for what you are doing the style of machine appears more than adequate but in general topics you will see that everyone raises the issue of support. Your main mission in life now should be to find out what sort of backup this supplier provides.

A couple of people have asked about decals for various machines and I came across this on another board: http://www.keelersales.com/servlet/Categories?category=Decals Hope it helps some of you with those unfinished projects. I have sent him an email asking to do a general decal set for industrial machines but it might prompt him into action if he gets a few more ;D

Every now and then I find a bit of dirt/rust/old thread between the tension disks but I suspect Eric may have hit the nail on the head with his last line.

You can run 1000 needles in a 97-10 I believe and there have been offering them for sale here. There is always a way around needle availability.

If you can talk him down to 500 you have a great machine that can do lots of great stuff. Always remember that every serious leather shop has a bunch of different machines that are capable of different things.

The only similar thing I have seen was a chain stitch bag closer.

Buying a machine is difficult because no one machine is perfect for everything. Buy the one that suits your budget and is doing what you need at about 2/3 of its capacity. If you can stretch the budget to a 441 then go for it.

The 16 series is more or less a long bed version of the 15 class that over time was developed into a whole range of light industrial machines. Most use the standard 15 class shuttle hook and bobbin case. The 16k28 uses the long beak shuttle as found in the 17/18 class (also Seiko TE/TF) and has a wheel feed. As is typical the 16 class continues in production alongside the 31 and they had similar capabilities!

The second could be a 16k28. It is hard read the badge but It certainly looks like a 16. Just to make ordering thread even more fun is that the Chinese use a different system again.

Threaded wrong, wrong, bent or blunt needle, wrong needle orientation, crap thread, cleanliness and such account for most of the issues brought to me. I don't have time to be ripping machines apart and I would rather see the owners learn more about how and why their machine works.

I have thread made in China and branded for me. At the moment I import $US1000 worth of High Tenacity Polyester - equivalent to Serafil - every six months or so.in 40 ticket (#69) in black, Raw White and a medium dark brown. I would stick to the Serafil type thread but the market here is dominated by bonded nylon so the bonded polyester will be less of a change for them.

Bonded polyester is not quite as strong but is less abrasive than bonded nylon and has better UV resistance so it may be 5% weaker than Nylon but will be 5% stronger in 2 years time.

That sort of application is probably best done with a needle and awl machine. Is this a one off or ongoing work?

I know that everybody appears to love bonded nylon but bonded polyester has much better lubrication properties. Would be interested to hear what comments you all have as I am about to order $US10k worth of bonded poly.

You know that as soon as you get rid of it you will desperately need it! Rule number one - never sell a machine even if you only use it once a month!

A proper sail sewing machine uses a three step zig-zag and this is usually associated with cam operated machines so they are even limited in their main market!

You meet the nicest people on here! I posted them off this morning.

$1000 for a second hand machine that the seller has already fibbed about (reverse) or about $1500 for a new machine with reverse and servo motor from a reputable dealer? All of the dealers hare have great reputations for backup and service - it is their interest to look after customers - and you can be sure that free advice will still be there long after the warranty runs out because they want to sell you your next machine as you move up. All you need do is look through these pages to see how much free advice they give to other peoples customers.

The situation in Australia is that there are very few mechanics who will touch industrials. The older guys who could strip and rebuild a 132k6 blindfolded have mostly retired and very few of the new generation are good for much more than swapping PC Boards in domestic machines. I am not a sewing machine mechanic and never claim to be but I have a long list of people asking me to look at machines because the closest person is 200km away. People like me because I give them a list of things to do and check before I will even look at the machine. Servicing machines is not really something that I want to do and it gives me great pleasure when people do some basic work and realise that there is an easy solution.

Did you buy this machine new or as a working second hand machine? If so then get your money back as I have my doubts the seller has ever tested it. This situation is "Typical" of most GB2972 patchers I have seen in the last two years. It could be something as simple as the needle being adjusted too close to the shuttle but more likely it is a combination of poor tolerances. Open up the back inspection plate and stick your finger in to see if there are metal shavings in the casing. Talk to one of the dealers here about a good second hand machine. Ronnie has some fine machines made in Taiwan.

This is a domestic machine that at most can handle #69 thread and was designed for low speed running.

Rule No1. If a machine is working fine then it needs no servicing beyond cleaning, oiling and checking the screws are tight. I see too many problems caused by "mechanics" who have no idea. I cannot claim to be an expert as I am learning as I go but you will know when your machine is not right by the sounds it makes and how it behaves. Rule No2. refer rule No1

There is a very long pinned thread by Wiz all about sewing machines for leather. Most of the machines you have asked about have been talked about ad-nauseum on this board so many of us consider that it is only fair that people do a little bit of research rather than just ask everyone to cover it again. There is a hell of a lot of good information here if you are prepared to spend some time looking for it.

I thought you were trying to sell that beast!