Steven Kelley

Change the needle? Crap, I'm still using the same needle Bob sent with my CB4500 in July. I think I've run about 300 holsters through it since then. Maybe I need to change mine too.

+1 Bob will take care of you.

I'm definitely no machine expert, but I did notice how the thread was running through the thread guides twice as well. I have no idea if that would cause the thread to over tension and create an issue, but it would be worth a try to rethread. On my Cowboy 4500, I thread through the first thread guide, over the top of the tensioner, then down to the second tension disc (not around and up to the thread guide again). It wraps 1.5 times counter clockwise around the second tension disc (without going through the thread guide first), then goes through the thread guide, through the spring, and up to the take up arm. That's how Bob does it on his video.

If I get a request for a holster that I don't have a mold for, and there is a mold available, I will purchase it without charging the customer anything extra. With the price of materials and the mold, I don't lose money on the holster. I've gotten a lot of repeat business from customers that I've done this for. I've also received referrals from them. So I think it's a good move in a business sense. For magazines, I usually only purchase 1, even if they order a double mag carrier. I can mold the doubles with one mag, just doing one side at a time. It's a little more work, but it saves the cost of 2 mags. I'm sure I have a few molds that I'll never use again, but it helps build a good reputation, and if the customer posts their experience on a few forums, you'll likely get a few orders from it.

I don't use it either. The leather I use is pretty smooth on the flesh side. There are no strands or loose flesh at all, so putting gum trag on there really wouldn't make it any smoother. Where are you buying your leather? I bought some at Tandy once that was very "fleshy". Since going to Wickett & Craig, I've had nothing but good smoothe leather to work with. I'm kind of against coating my holsters with a bunch of unnecessary stuff.

I use Chris' burnishers as well. Excellent product!! I dropped and broke one, while Chris was on hiatus from spinning, so I bought one from Weavers to try. It was horrible. The steel shaft in Chris' burnishers make all the difference. You can tighten them into a drill press and they spin perfectly true. The one from Weaver's does not have such a shaft. It's 100% wood. Those cannot be properly tightened into the chuck of a drill press. You just compress the wood. It's loose, wobbles, and is just not even in the same league. Excellent product Chris!

I've used some WC black drum dyed veg tan, and it performs equally with the non-dyed. It cuts, molds, and stiffens the same as non-dyed. The only issues I've had with it is that the back side doesn't have a uniform color. Because of this, I have to redye the holster, which kind of negates the benefits of buying it dyed from the tannery.

I make one of that style. The way I make it, the straps are part of the front half of the holster. They wrap over the top and around the belt, snapping back onto themselves in the center. The loops aren't a separate piece. It's really a pretty simple design. If making for a 1.5" belt, just make an extension on each side of the holster slightly wider than the belt. The front half of the holster will have the loops. I'm not looking at my pattern, but if I remember correctly, the measurements are about 4-5/16" from snap center to snap center. There is a t-nut sandwiched between the 2 layers to fasten the snap stud to. Here is a pic.

One thing you can do to lower the ride height is increase the cant angle. Keeping a gap between the rear wing and grip limits how low the holster can ride. By increasing the cant angle, you increase that gap. When one of my customers requests a lower ride height, I usually go with a 25° cant. That allows the holster to be lowered in relation to the belt about 3/4", while keeping enough gap for a full grip. Obviously, if the customer isn't open to the increased angle, that can't be done. Usually though, once they wear the holster with additional angle, they like it. 25° on an IWB holster is really a good angle for concealment and ease of draw.

My Cowboy 4500 was ready to go right out of the box. Just mounted the head to the stand, put on the belt, and started sewing. It hasn't missed a beat and I've used it every day for about 6 months. I think the Cowboy 3500 would be right in your price range. I got all the accessories with mine, but honestly don't use any of them. I only use the standard plate and harness feet. They work fine for everything I do, which is only holsters. I played with the holster plate and left/right toe feet, but I like the standard harness feet and plate the best. If it were me, I would just buy the CB3500 for $1895 without any of the additional accessories.

I agree with the above comments. For me, it cuts easier, edges easier, has a much smoother surface on both sides, and you get some really nice "grain" features on most pieces. One thing I've noticed is that you have to let it soak in water a lot longer before forming. I usually let cowhide soak about 5 - 10 seconds and it's totally saturated. Horsehide I let soak for several minutes, and it still doesn't saturate like cowhide.

I order from Zack White as well. I've tried other suppliers, but the quality from Zack White is the best I've found. I contacted Horween's about ordering direct, and they sent pricing. They sell by the pound, and it appears that each piece would be quite a bit higher in cost ordering direct, than ordering from Zack White. $12.50 per piece, when order more than 10, is pretty good. I can usually get 2-3 holsters from each piece, and some smaller pieces like reinforcement pieces and belt loops.

I'm currently using a CB4500 to sew all my items, and love it. My holster business has grown to the point where I'm going to add a second machine after the new year. This machine will serve two purposes. First, it will allow my helper (wife) and I to both stitch at the same time when needed. Most likely setting up each machine with a different color of thread, to eliminate or reduce the amount of times I have to thread the machine with a different color of thread. The second reason for another machine is to eliminate any downtime if I have some sort of machine failure (broken feet, motor, etc.) All the other equipment I use can be acquired locally, but not a stitching machine. I just want to have a second machine as a safety factor to protect my ability to get orders out quickly. I think my volume has gotten to the point where it's justified, at least to me. So I've been going back and forth in my mind about machine selection. Since I already have one machine, the first thought was just get a second one just like it. Then, all the accessories would fit either. But then I keep thinking that I should get a needle and awl machine, like a Campbell or Landis 3. I know the stitching of the Campbell is tighter and looks the same front and back. Since I've never used one, and I'm sure there would be a learning curve, I just can't decide what the best course of action is. So, for those of you who have used both types of machine, what are your thoughts on this? Am I better off having 2 identical machines, or having a Needle & Awl machine that will give me a better stitch? If I did get one, I'm pretty sure it would be a Campbell, and I would make a trip to Yoakum to be shown how to use it. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Bought my CB4500 from Bob in July. I've used it every day and have had no problems at all with it. It's a very good machine. I'm actually going to buy a 2nd machine after the New Year, and it will most likely be another Cowboy. Bob has always been very fast to answer any question I have, no matter how dumb the question is. I had no experience at all with a sewing machine before buying this, and it was very easy to learn to use. I highly recommend Cowboy an Toledo Bob.

From the research I did before my purchase, they are basically the same machine. I purchased the Cowboy 4500 because Bob had them in stock and I needed one quickly. It arrived completely adjusted and ready to sew. Took about an hour to assemble on the stand and start sewing with it. I have not had any issues with the machine at all, and haven't even had to adjust anything. It's been used every day for the last 4 months and hasn't missed a beat. I have had some "operator error" issues, but those are on me and not the machine. I can only recommend what I have experience with, and that's the Cowboy. Bob's service before and after the sale has been outstanding. So based on that, I would recommend the Cowboy. Others have had similar experiences with the Cobra, and I'm sure they will document that here as well.

It was a combination of horsehide and me just going too fast. The horsehide I'm using is quite "hard" and very slick. The presser feet and feed dog don't put any impression in it, so they really don't get a good grip to move the leather. When I go too fast, I just throw the machine in reverse and hit the pedal, while I'm holding onto the leather. The leather was slipping under the presser foot. When I slowed down I had no issues. Also, I've never had this problem on cowhide, which is a lot softer. So it was not a machine problem.

Best one I've used is from www.leatherburnishers.com.

That's about how long it took to get my Cowboy 4500 when I ordered it in July. Ten days from order date until I was sewing with it. The only way I could be happier with it is if Bob gave me another one, for free. Just kiddin' Bob!

I purchased a Cowboy 4500 from Bob in July. Very happy with the machine and Bob's service.

I've been using Johnson's Paste Wax with nice results as well. Rub it in, let dry, then buff. I have a buffing wheel setup in my drill press. Run at a fairly slow speed it does a good job of polishing the leather without being too harsh. I really like the look this combo gives. Thanks for sharing it! Much more "natural" look IMHO than I can get with Resolene or Angelus 600.

I've been using Resolene and Angelus 600 acrylic, unhappily, for quite a while. They are both a bit of a pain to apply without streaks or bubbles. I've used a brush, a sponge, an airbrush, and for the past couple of months have just been dipping. Regardless of application method, they require a lot of attention after application to make sure the finish looks good. Definitely not apply and forget, at least not for me. After reading several posts by Katsass about the 50/50 mix of Mop & Glow and water, I decided to give it a try. I will say that application is about as fool proof and simple as it can be. I just put it in a normal spray bottle. Spray a light coat on, let it sit a few seconds, then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. No bubbles, no streaks, no tackiness........... I apply 2 to 3 coats this way, letting each dry before the next. The final finish isn't glossy like when using Resolene. It's has more of a matte luster appearance. I really like it. I think the leather looks more natural, and it's 100% easier in the application and "baby sitting" department. I can't comment on durability, but I've read somewhere that Katsass has been using it for 40+ years, so I'm sure if it wasn't durable he would have noticed by now.

I bought the 4500 with all the accessories. I've played with the holster plate, but end up using the standard feed dog, plate, and presser feet. I occasionally use the right toe presser foot. I would say you need the right toe presser foot (toe away from roller feed guide) and the roller feed guide, along with the standard feed dog, plate, and double toe presser foot. You should be able to do virtually anything with holsters and belts with that.

You can also send Bob a PM on this forum. I posted a question about my CB4500 and backstitching a few weeks ago. Within 30 minutes of posting the question, my phone rang, and it was Bob calling to help me with my issue. My issue turned out to be operator error, not an equipment problem. He has always been very helpful with my many questions.

I bought a Cowboy from Bob at Toledo Industrial Sewing in July. VERY happy with the machine and the service Bob provides. The machine was setup to sew when shipped. I just unloaded it, mounted the head on the stand, and started to sew. No adjustment needed at all. I've also heard good things about Steve at Cobra.

Excellent point. The hide I posted a pic of above was split to 6/7oz.