Cumberland Highpower

I kinda like the sound of this one. I haven't seen one in person, but sounds like it could be a good model for a little modification? The name Consew makes it sound 50 years newer!

I had 2 of those in the Classic version. They were ok/decent machines, but slow. I broke more needles on them than anything else. What do you mean jump foot with a spring?

Well, I have Seikos, Consews, Adlers, Brothers and a Nakajima that all take the 135x needle system. Half of those are triple feed. A jump foot can have the same external "footprint" of a triple feed inner and outer foot set, yet have over twice the actual surface area of either individual foot to spread pressure out on the work. If I had needle feed and a jump foot, I could just use a needle plate with a slot and eliminate the feed dog. It's just something I'd like to have. Not a necessity. Why not? Looks like the 44-9 isn't a needle feed after all. just looked it up.

Thanks for the replies men Looks like the 44-9 is pretty close. I'm dreaming of something like a downscaled Ferdinand 900B that takes a 135x16 needle. Could be cyl or post bed.

Is anyone familiar of a mid size machine that can take a 135x16/17 needle with a jump foot and needle feed? I'm thinking I'd like to have one for some really small fine work (don't want a wheel presser). Just a jump foot (a real jump foot) and needle feed only.

Yeah that was a pretty stupid part design in an otherwise fantastic machine. At least it was a good chance to tweak the feed dog height and centering.......

Well what's the harm in replying to a 10 yr old post? lol Is there a difference between the old and new boxy looking 335 in foot lift? I always just assumed it was the same machine more or less, just bloated and boxy w/bobbin winder to look more modern and sophisticated.

Northmount I got it resolved. I took about 3 hours today and looked it over/worked on it. The feed dog attaches to a plate that's dovetailed into another. The dovetail was adjustable for wear, but the screws (I thought I saw) that held the adjustable gib were on the backside. No access from anywhere outside of the machine. I had to remove the hook, and both of the feed dog motion shafts to get to the screws. I was a little surprised at the design, the adjustable gib was different from what's depicted in the manual/parts book that came with that machine.

LIK is probably right on value, at least here in the States. In Canada, it could be worth more? I've seen them sell in working condition anywhere from $200 to 2k. Amish are willing to pay top dollar, everyone else, not really. They're also not OSHA approved because they don't have a lockout or 2 hand safety switch like a modern clicker. There is an outfit that refits them to air, but they are slow and the conversion is too expensive if you're not Amish. lIK is also right about the double clicking issue and getting stuck. If you use one allot you'll become accustomed to it and learn to work around it. Might be what you need. I would not recommend one if you do much clicking though. I once bought a Reece Model A for $30 at an auction and on the way home I decided I didn't want it in my shop...Swung by the local scrap yard and offloaded it for $70!

A servo is probably a good thing if you're just starting out. I have clutch motors on most of my machines, and have even removed servos to re-install clutch motors. BUT that also is a factor of what I'm doing with them and I have allot of experience. I do have a couple servos and put one on a Seiko LSC. They're ISM and made in Taiwan. They're fantastic for the price. I wanted the needle positioner feature mostly. I bought one from the UK, college sewing I think? came in 220v. I'd recommend that option. If I remember right they were like $230? I really can't see letting a motor influence the machine you buy though? It's kinda like saying you're choosing between a Fiat and a Mercedes, but you're going to buy the Fiat because it comes with snow tires. You can change a motor just as easy as tires, lol

That's what it looks like. A wooden prop for the machine head. Some tables have these as a permanent fixture, some just a hole you stick that wood thing into. Just something for the head to lay against when you tip it back. Looks like that's what you have anyway. Maybe your table isn't outfitted for one?

Of those 2 I'd buy the Pfaff if it's not Chinese. 1245's are pretty good machines and would do anything you want. If you were to shop for a different machine I'd buy a Seiko LSC-8 or Pfaff 335 or something similar. (There are some made for binding, don't buy one of those) and use a flat bed table with it.

That looks great.

On my Consew 277r I noticed the feed dog mechanism is feeling loose. The dog and screw are new and tight w/locktite, but what it's bolted to is starting to feel sloppy. I took the covers off the end of the arm and looked it over. I cannot see any type of adjustment to take up the slop right away. I "think" i can see some screws on the back side of the slide plate but I cant really tell if that's what I'm looking at or not. The parts look pretty substantial, based on the size and hardness I can't imagine enough wear forming to cause the slop. Is there a way to adjust this out? Japanese machine, probably mid 1990s