Cumberland Highpower

We're making a small run of some antique type tooling. I find some of the rawhide pieces used are pretty thick. I may end up doubling up if I end up using 5/6. I looked over the link. I was surprised to see horse rawhide as well as goat. Up to this point I've never used a single piece of rawhide on anything, but have worked a very substantial amount of tanned leathers. So I can say I both "know" and "dont know" what I'm doing with confidence! LOL

What's the thickest/heaviest weight Rawhide out there? Bovine or something similar. Been looking for some really heavy sides/double shoulders but can't seem to find anything over 5/6oz....Would like to find something heavier. Any leads/ideas?

When my "work van" with a 3.6 Pentastar went out of warranty 10 years ago I started using 10w30/40. Was cheaper to buy as a generic than 5W-20. I've seen no negativity over the years and have 350k on it. No apparent decrease in fuel economy or hard starting in cold either. In a general sense it makes no difference in most applications.

I'm a huge fan of Ballistol and use it almost everywhere, but more sparingly on sewing machines. On sewing machinery I find it a mixed bag and use it for select points.

10w spindle oil is what I'd use on that machine. Many machine makers call for it. In truth you can use almost any oil including motor oil. In the past I often just used a 30w straight oil on many machines and worked great, especially older machines that I received with a bit of pre-wear. Thicker oil does tend to quiet down a worn machine a bit. Some machines actually call for a heavy oil, such as the famed Adler 205. It's Esso K68, that's essentially a first cousin to bar and chain oil. Lilly white is popular here. I find it a bit light, but many also use it for thread lube so could double up. Topic for endless debate here.

I'd probably go medium brown with a couple drops of black to darken just a shade. Dont' get carried away with the black. There might be a little light darkening at play there as well. (Comes of a bit of an oxymoron!). I've always found brown dyes to need a little work to get an even shade. Coats have to be even and given a little time to penetrate, and you may need to work in any excess that doesn't absorb just right to avoid darker spots. Use "oil dye" the kind labeled nowadays as PRO dye. Feibing's has an in house chemist, if you call, he'll call you back and tell you what to blend more precisely.

There's an outfit in Italy that made tons of those. Sold by just about everyone. I don't remember the Italian maker unfortunately. If you need parts just call Randall/Campbell, they sold the same thing w their label on it. Probably could tell you the exact maker unless it's some kind of a "trade secret." I think FIPI made those Hudsons. They might not be in business any longer, I don't know. FIPI machines were pretty similar to Atoms. Manufacturers Supplies might be able to help with the manual. They sent me a PDF for an Atom a few years back.

Probably not a bad idea to delete. I never went so far, mainly not trusting it. Seems to be a few of these online as well outside of this forum.

Are these patterns for real or are they a Trojan Horse? I clicked on one out of curiosity and I got a popup wanting me to "click allow" to prove I'm human....Sounds awfully suspect to me?

There's one that keeps hitting me up. Sent at least 3 different solicitations and follow ups....Pretty much the same MO as yours. I just say, yeah thanks I already got in touch, paid for the item and received it. Works great!

When I was a teenager, I made a slicker from a $2 motor/arbor. Took a chain saw and cut a slice off of a piece of firewood, drilled a hole and turned it down on the arbor itself. (Clamped a block of wood to table and used a chisel just like you would on a woodlathe). The wood turned out to be cherry. Held up pretty good. Still have it sitting around somewhere.

I always suspected Bianchi used suede as a liner for another reason. Bianchi bought ALLOT of leather shoulders. (Good price, good yield, not many defects). Shoulder+suede=pretty substantial holster. Suede made it have a finished look at the same time.

It looks like you already unseized your machine? I recently bought a Seiko from Japan that was seized up. It hadn't been used since the year it was made, 1986! Locked up tight, just like you used superglue instead of oil. I used a few drops of PB Blaster (Penetrating oil) on each joint, bearing and oil hole and then sat it up on blocks above a gas freestanding heater in my shop. I left it there a few hours, until it was pretty warm (not hot, just warm enough you'd want to not keep your hand on it for more than a couple seconds). I took it down and everything moved a little. After a couple extra drops, it spun freely. I don't know if you'd really need the heat, but I found it helped allot with the polymerized oil. Looks like a great buy for $20 Euro. I always liked pre Durkopp Adler machines. Really great build quality.

Controlling Multiple Motors with One VFD | Rockwell Automation | US Here's a little primer on the basics With the really cheap VFD's on Amazon/Alibaba and what not, that are pretty small, you'd probably be handicapped right out of the bubble wrap. I don't use a VFD for anything, although I am warming up to the idea. I've got one disc grinder I need to set up that is too far from my 3ph lines. A vfd would be cheaper than wiring/conduit, and it's within 20' of my 220v.

It's kind of novel. I wonder if you can find a ready made one somewhere like that? Maybe with an extension cord already built in? a cord of 20' or so would be a plus, must hobby leather shops here in the US don't have 220v outlets as a standard thing so they maybe just wire up one. If you have lots of 3ph machines, you'd be better off with a rotary phase converter and just wire your shop for 3ph. That's what I have. I can run every piece of machinery in there at once. I have 2 converters, both surplus units from DuPont that cost $200. One is supposed to be a spare, but after 15 years I still don't need it. Some machines can't work properly on a single VFD, for example a machine that has multiple seriously mismatched motor hp ratings or has motors that start and stop independently of each other.