Cumberland Highpower

I don't know what you're planning to make or what leathers you'll be working with.... If it' something like soft leathers or thin stock for wallets, etc. Maybe a small die, a 4 ton is probably ok. I had a 10 ton and a 15 ton clicker and found them coming up short on cutting force. I have 25 metric ton machines nowadays and they'll cut most anything. Even now though, I come up a little short of power if it's a really large die with lots of cutting surface and the stock is hard/stiff.

Most of mine are from International in GA. I always got the best prices and good quality from them. I've heard some say they had problems with International. For myself, I've never had any issue. BUT I'm always very meticulous with the patterns and made notes for the die maker, that could be why? They'd be good for low cost simpler dies. Weaver makes excellent dies. If you're looking for the best workmanship on a steel rule die, they're where you want to go. Downside with Weaver is that they're x2 the price of everyone else. Did I say x2? Maybe I meant x3!

hmm.

I'm going over a pair of United Carr M245 motorized snap setting machines. Doing the usual, cleaning, adjusting, etc and thought to replace the drive belts. My usual cheat method is to just remove a flat belt when I come to one and replace it with a heavy cogged v belt and changing the pulley on the motor to a V type while leaving the larger driven one flat. This time around I may have hit a bump in the road. Best I can tell, the driven pulley doesn't have any way around it for a standard belt. I can't really get a good look in there, but best I can tell I'd have to disassemble the machines to get a v belt in? Anyone replace a belt in a M245 type before? Any tricks or advice before I take everything apart? They currently have flat belts w/lacing.

You don't really need thinner for the pro dye. I've dip dyed browns for years in 5gal buckets....And had the same problem at the begining. The first thing to address is having your dye at room temperature or above. If it's 20degrees where you dye, it's not going to absorb well and you'll get those results. I realize it's August and I see you're in GA, so that's probably not your issue. the other thing to address is working the dye into the leather. the Browns/tans are the worst colors to get a good even tone with. You are probably oversaturating the leather (I feel like your 3-4 seconds is probably more like 6-8) AND not working the surface excess into it. After you pull it out of your dye you need to "work" the dye into the leather for a few seconds until it vanishes. if you pull it out of the bucket dripping with dye and it stays that way very long you'll get lots of dark/black/streaks/blotches, etc. Thinners make it absorb more quickly (Alchohol) but you'll generally get a lighter shade that takes more dips to darken to the desired one. Browns usually take 2 dips. 2 seconds in, wipe excess, dry completely then repeat In hot GA sun I'd say an hour or 2 would be enough drying time. Makes sure your dye is well blended. It seems to separate a little with time. Last bit of advice is to use a QUALITY leather for the browns. Mexican/Argentinian/Turk import sides don't absorb or dry as evenly with browns as Herman Oak or even W&C. By the way are you sure you have the right color of dye? Any chance you dumped the wrong jug into the blend? I once did that and made a whole batch of holsters that were supposed to be brown. I had dumped a gallon of black by mistake, forgetting what I was working on. The results were actually a charcoal color. Much to my surprise they were the first ones to sell.....!

I used to order some pretty long posts from DOT years ago. I think I remember some being close to 9/16"? A common trick to gain a little is to punch a larger hole for the snap to recess in. I can't remember how large it is exactly as I sit here, but something like 1/2" There are/were also the stud parts that were designed a little deeper in the center, allowing thicker leather. Did you check out DOTs' website? Not sure if they still have one, just assuming.

When I handed the ATT to the crossing agent they just waived me through. Didn't even want to look at my rifles. I doubt it would be so easy today.

That's pretty awesome. Im left wondering a bit. With a VFD you probably shouldn't operate your motor under 400rpm (it might overheat). With the 4:1 reduction that would put you down to 100rpm. Of course the reducer might allow you to cheat the overheating part by allowing less load at low rpms so maybe you could push it lower under load? Have you had any trouble with overheating?

I wouldn't use the word addiction KGG, maybe more "appreciation" LOL Do you shoot in competition? Back in 2000 I joined the DCRA for one season out of curiosity and went up to Connaught Range to take part as a Civilian in the CFSAC. Surprisingly as luck would have it, I was disqualified during squadding. (I was 5 min late). Later on I found out it was a blessing of sorts...For the match I brought a pair of Colt AR match rifles, about 3k rds of ammo and a duffel bag of 20rd magazines along for the trip. The Rifles were legal of course, as I had applied for an "ATT" but the ammo circumstance and the bag of high cap mags were apparently not....Considering many of the participants were either RCMP or OPP I probably would have been in cuffs before the day was out! So I decided to go sight seeing around Ottawa for a day before heading back. Another stroke of luck! it's a real bummer what they did to you guys up there under Trudeau when it comes to firearms. It was bad enough before.

I like it. Wish I had a small shop in South OZ I could call my winter destination!! When I was still living at home years ago we had a shed set up kind of like that. I started making M1907 Match slings 30 years ago (!!!) and had it split 1/2 leather stuff, 1/2 reloading. Never reloaded one pistol cartridge in my life (unless you can somehow justify 444 is one). Loaded TONS of rifle rounds though. Always looked at Dillons but shot so few handguns it was easier to buy for those.

Might be some plates/feet/dogs that are smooth for that machine? There's a guy in Japan that makes wallets among other things and he uses Seikos with large knurled presser wheels. Wheel marks everywhere, but that's part of his trademark look. Just saying if you can't beat'em, maybe join'em?

I've used some Organ needles and they seemed to be overall a good needle. Schmetz are better overall but it is what it is. I've also bought them for hook and awl machines and in that regard they are just as good as any other.

Yeah that's kinda odd way to mark the packs. Organ says when you take a 135x17 needle and make it a TRI it becomes a 135x16TRI. I've seen that in their marketing material in the past. I guess they just want to put it all out there for those that might be a bit confused in what to purchase? !

Ok.

Hey I like that. I guess that's the "Slant 6" of the sewing world?