malabar

Dwight, nice work. can you elaborate on the challenges? must need a long arm to draw one of those <g> tk

Did you ever finish this? I think it would present some unique issues. For one, you would need a substantial sight track to keep the holster from locking up on the front sight. Second, the only real grip you're going to get on the gun is on that two-inch section of receiver around the trigger guard. Considering how much of the weight of the luger is at the back end, I would think that would make retention challenging (so I'd like to see how yours turns out). BTW: They're beautifully engineered guns, but lugers are terrible for real defensive purposes -- poor trigger, poor sights, very sensitive to ammo. tk

It would be much easier to diagnose a specific issue if we saw a photo of the holsters you are producing. tk

hey, good find. you're right, the shape looks right. tk

damn! they're on the endangered species list, aren't they? tk

I picked this up with some stingray down at a shop in Miami. The proprietor said he thought it was shark, but it doesn't look like any shark I've seen. There are no ridges, just fine scales. And if it is shark, it's a real small one. And it is VERY thin, maybe one millimeter. Is it a small shark like a dogfish or a lizard? Or maybe something extraterrestrial <g>? tk

they're gorgeous. What do you make the heads out of? tk

I'm not an expert on this at all. But I'd guess that's a strip across the belly of a gator. Don't think it's caiman because the scales are smooth. Are there bony plates in the skin? If so, then it's not gator. Sea turtle is an interesting thought, but I think the scales are more irregular on sea turtle. tk

Yeah, and they'll split it, too. tk

Denster, thanks for the heads up. that explains a lot, but damn it all, that's not the way it's listed. Now the only question is HO or W&C. tk

I got the 11-1211VC on the opposite page. It's marked ideal for belts, cases holsters and pouches. In the past I has used the 11-1201VC, which is supposed to be the same thing minus the finish. That's perfectly reasonable veg-tan, although it's a little pale and doesn't darken up as well as some under vinegaroon. Could make some real pretty belts out of the prefinished stuff. tk

Supposedly it is drum-dyed veg-tan. What I find interesting is that my finished product is reminiscent of the Sparks holster. tk

Looking for some insight on different types of leather and the effects it has on your holsters..... Up until now, I've been working with veg-tan from a variety of sources, but no HO or W&C. The holsters I make out of this leather are hardened and hold their shape well. But I haven't been able to get the finished look that I see in, for example, a Milt Sparks. So I got a couple of drum-dyed veg-tan backs from Weaver Leather. The stuff is gorgeous. It has a sheen and a slick finish. It cuts like a dream. It has the look of the finished leather from Milt Sparks. But I can't mold it the same way as "regular" veg tan. It doesn't absorb water like regular veg-tan, and baking it merely makes it softer -- it simply doesn't harden. You can stretch it a bit, and it will make a holster, but it doesn't harden up. I can't get the holster to "snap" into place. So is this the choice? Does HO and W&C drum-dyed behave the same way? Does drum-dyed simply behave a different way? tk

There's a pattern and guide to western-style holsters in the sticky called "Western Holster Tutorial." It's excellent. If you want more info, check out John Bianchi's DVDs. Welts are common on holsters for revolvers, especially those that wrap around, like the traditional western designs. The welt helps keep the gun properly centered in the holster, and helps insure an easy draw and reholster. Depending on the weight of the leather, a lining isn't necessary. You probably want to end up with about 10 ounces of leather in the finished holster, so if you're using 7/8 for the body, you could use 2/3 for the lining. Plain old veg-tan is fine for the lining as well as the body. On a western-style holster, a thong is traditionally used to secure the gun. tk

WOW! very nice/ tk

Actually, the glocks are pretty much the only gun where that would work. I've made holsters before that would accommodate both the 17&19 by splitting the difference in length -- the muzzle sticks out a centimeter or so with the 17 and is about a centimeter shy of filling the end of the 19. tk

I believe the trigger guard is different. tk

what a BONEHEAD. I used isopropyl alcohol instead of methanol. Well at least I now know how to stiffen up leather <g> THANKS! tk I'm definitely going to g back and try that again. many thanks tk

The folks at springfield are tops. I order from them whenever I can. I needed some kydex in 36"-inch lengths and they were happy to cut it for me. One thing I'm real curious about: When I dipped my pieces they got REAL stiff -- like wood. And when I bent one of them, It looked like the smooth grain surface was wrinkling and separating. I cut the dye 50% with rubbing alcohol and I'm assuming that dried out the leather -- but I thought that was a common technique. And it was literally just a quick dip. I'm finishing out the holster just as an experiment. I've got long experience as a woodworker, but finishing food seems far easier -- at least far more predictable -- than finishing leather. thanks for the help. tk

Dwight thanks for the thoughtful reply. I'm experimenting with a similar design so I really appreciate the insight. I can see that the straps flexing could be a longterm issue, and am using replaceable straps on my design, but it's still in testing. But I think you're right -- nothing grips like a well-designed pancake. They're just not very convenient to mount and dismount. I know the incident you're talking about. I'm a civilian firearms instructor and that got a lot of attention. I don't produce a belt side because I'm concerned about the exposed muzzle pushing the gun loose. That just kind of cinches it to me. tk

that's gorgeous! tk

I don't know. I'm doubtful that is the result of vinegaroon. I don't have the expertise of many on these forums, but I've made dozens of holsters with vinegaroon, and have never seen anything like that. If it is a factor, then I'll bet there are other factors involved as well. How many did you make and how many have come back falling apart? tk

Dwight is it that you don't like about the style? tk

That's nice work, Mike! Any tips on setting up the airbrush? How far do you hold the airbrush from your holster when spraying? tk

Folks, I'm searching for the best way to color my holsters, and it's been frustrating. I've made dozens with vinegaroon, but the results tend to be inconsistent, depending on the batch of leather. I've ended up redyeing some of them to get decent results. But it's the lighter colors that are more of a problem. I've been working with Fiebings Alcohol dyes. Daubing gives me very inconsistent results. Spraying can give nice results, but it's time consuming, uses a lot of dye, and produces a surface that is not very durable. I tried dipping, but the colors were way too dark. So I cut it heavily with alcohol. That gave me a better color, but the leather became stiff as a board. And penetration is still not good. Is buying drum-dyed the best answer? On another thread US Gunleather said he daubs his holsters with Angelus dyes. The consistency of the finish is fabulous. Is the Angelus dye that much better? Appreciate any insight y'all can offer. tk