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Cyberthrasher

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Everything posted by Cyberthrasher

  1. Yep, that's exactly what I want to see. But, some detail of the seat would be cool too
  2. Looks good, but I can't properly judge it without seeing what's underneath it
  3. No idea. But I'm interested in what you come up with since I have that set sitting on my entertainment center right now
  4. 5 am - time for some sleep.

  5. Most of the stuff I get out of those is pretty thick, especially from Zack White. Usually it's 8-9 oz and I use it for all my bracelets. Springfield actually splits the difference. Bunch of 8-9, some 5-7, and some light liners all in the same bag.
  6. 2 am and I'm at the day job. This isn't going to be a fun day.

  7. On top of that - BUY LOCAL!!! If everyone buys more stuff from the small mom and pop shops and not the Wal-Marts of the world then we'll all be better off.
  8. Well, since you don't know where you want to go, I'd suggest taking a look at the videos here. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/Leathercraft-Videos/Leathercraft-Videos.aspx Now, if you want to start tooling your watch straps, the Tandy basic or deluxe kit will get you started. The deluxe has a couple of better quality items in it. But, I think the leather pieces in them are questionable, so if you go that route keep in mind that your troubles may be with the leather and not necessarily your skill (I purchased bags of scrap to work on pretty quick after I started). Aside from those kits, I wouldn't really suggest any of the others they offer (stitching kit and stuff like that) because you'd be better off building the kit with only the parts you need. Many people prefer hand sewn because it's a much stronger stitch, but that's not always an economical option when you consider time and stuff. I think it really boils down to what you're doing. For me, I would say a hand stitched watch band would be much better. At the top of that link you'll also see a link to the Leathercraft Library where you can find books on different subjects. Any of the Al Stohlman books are a great resource to have in any workshop. Also, remember to search the site here, both with the search box and browsing around the different categories. There is A LOT of information buried in these pages. And if all else fails, ask away - Allen
  9. Yeah, I think corners are a whole different story. I haven't been able to afford a round knife yet, so maybe at that point my technique will change drastically. For me, the best sander is a piece of sand paper in my hand, but again, that's because I'm pretty cheap for the time being until I start getting some cash flow.
  10. Yeah, I could go on a long time too, but I do agree. But, it's also in part because we've migrated from a production society to a service society. And, those who are working production just aren't happy, so there's lots of room for things to change.
  11. No problem. I'm just glad I read that part of the Stohlman case making books, otherwise I would have absolutely no idea.
  12. Personally, I don't really care for the results I get with a razor knife. It's more like I just don't have the best control with it. But, I do have a really nice paper-maker's knife that I've adjusted the angle on to better suit leather. But, one thing I used to struggle with is when I was trying to cut a straight line my leather would move from the pressure of trying to put the knife all the way through ( 8 - 9 oz leather). Now I've learned that it saves me a lot of time if I make a quick and light cut about half the thickness and then go back over it again real quick to cut the rest. This pretty much always gets me a nice straight and even line. As long as your first cut is straight, that's exactly what you will get out of the second one because it uses that first cut as a guide.
  13. Yeah, that looks like it was a mitered corner. So, just like you would with a piece of wood, miter your edges with a knife to a 45 deg angle and then stitch through it. here's an excerpt from one of the Stohlman books that shows it. http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41233&p=536207#post536207
  14. You might try buffing it before you use the polish. Apply your first coat of dye, let it sit, light buff, apply next coat, etc.. Before moving onto final finishing, keep on buffing it until there's no more pigment showing up on your cloth. Then move on to your polish and conditioners and stuff. This is just what I've learned from the other guys and my own trial and error (mostly error).
  15. Don't worry, Chancey's just passionate and wants to see everyone succeed Are you buffing your dye before you finish it? There's been a couple times where I thought I was good and then started buffing just to watch it all come off. I just keep going at it with a soft cloth and rub in circular motion to get off any of the loose pigments. If your finish lasts through that then you should be good. I've been using Montana Pitch Blend for a final finish after all that and couldn't be happier with the results. It's not a high-gloss, just more of a satin glow, and makes your piece water "repellent". $10 for a jar and it should go a VERY long way. Spinner, I keep on meaning to test out some Pecard's from all the good stuff you say about it. One of these days I need to just hit the order button.
  16. Really thinking about cutting a friend a deal on a case and letting him make payments on top of that. It's one of those things where It's almost guaranteed advertisement with lots of business coming out of it.

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. busted

      busted

      I would not place such a demand

      on a friend of mine. If I wanted

      to keep my friend I would make a

      gift of the item. Just my 2 cents.

    3. Cyberthrasher

      Cyberthrasher

      Think of it like making a chopper seat for a friend who takes their bike to all the chopper shows. Except in this case it's a paintball gun case for someone who works in a paintball shop and also competes in a lot of tournaments..

    4. WinterBear

      WinterBear

      Part of his "price" should be that he cannot say what you charged him. If he says that you gave him a substantial discount and let him make payments, you're going to have everyone and their monkey for miles around wanting the same deal. He spills the bean, he's gotta pay full price! :)

  17. I'm trying to get some other stuff cleared up right now while I'm contemplating my design. I'll have something up by the end of the month though.
  18. Lemme from Cycle Source just did a pretty cool little article on Christian. It actually left me pretty inspired. Now, if I can just figure out how he gets his color and shading, I'll be golden.
  19. Yeah, there's some stupid laws about that where they can still say made in the USA if it's just assembled here and crap like that. Not sure what the specifics are with these companies, but I feel the same way. There was a lot of Taiwan Ted stuff on my bike when we first re-built it due to budgeting and wanting to get it on the road. I've almost got it all replaced with real American made parts.
  20. From what old English Don is going through on his temporary Ultima shovel - I'd stick with an S&S.
  21. I need to find me an old beat up rigid seat to steal the pan out of. So, is that the only dye it's getting?
  22. , unless it's a death ray type of laser, then I might make an exception
  23. That's the one that gets me every time!! Surprisingly I only have one totally scrapped project in my pile though, but it will make a good strop at a later date.
  24. Nice one Paul. It's like a leather Tiki Mr. Potato Head.
  25. Yeah, it's those things you come up with as a teenager when you're limited to no friends hanging out in a basement listening to metal while drinking whatever is available. Ah, the good old days.
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