Cyberthrasher

I don't think there is one, but you can build. Send me a PM if you want some information on personal one on one classes from one of the best there is.

I DID VOTE!!!! And, I'm making something right now too (if you count making mac people angry) Now I'm just bumping the thread up so people will hopefully continue to see it and take notice while at the same time helping someone

Well, they've got double shoulders listed for $4.50 at about 13 sq/ft here ($58 for the whole thing plus about 12ish shipping I'd guess - $70). I'd give them a call and talk to them about what you need. I'm pretty positive they'll find a way to get you what you need at a price you're looking for. http://springfieldleather.com/30019/Shoulder%2CDouble%2CS.Ameri%2C7-9-oz/

How much are you looking for? Springfield has really good prices, as well as good bags of remnants by the 2lb bag. They'll also cut to the size you need. I bought a side from them and 2 of the bags of tooling remnants a couple months ago. I haven't touched the side yet and I still have 1 full bag of the remnants. Anything I can find at Springfield I will buy there first. You can't beat their customer service.

How have I missed those before. I've spent a lot of time on their site. I'm pretty sure that all of those will be stored before the end of the day. That's exactly the kind of stuff I've been wanting to do more of because it's a lot quicker doing the full tooling job.

Ouch - just saw that edit of $20 for 2 lbs. Yeah, at that rate you're definitely better off buying double shoulders or sides. here's a good weight conversion chart that you might find useful since you're in the realm of millimeters. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/leatherguide/leatherguide.aspx

What are you wanting to make with it? Most places I've seen are the same price regardless of the weight, so I'd say if it's available get something heavier and then skive it down as needed. Most of my stuff is 8/9 though, so I'd rarely have to skive that. I guess if everything you make is 4-5, then it would make more sense to get the right weight.

What will you do with the tools without leather???? I'm telling you man, 2 lbs of leather from Springfield for $7 is a lot of leather, or you can get a 3 LB bag from Zack White for $15. The Springfield bag has a good mix of lighter weight stuff and heavy weight. Everything in my Zack White bag was 8/9 oz, so no lining material but great for practice - and there were some pretty big straps in there too. But, I'm not sure if any of this is worth it once you add shipping to the UK.

Hey, that was a much easier way of stating what I was trying to say. I hate over thinking my thoughts.

If you're using it to shape the leather - it's a tool if you're using it to mark your design - it's a freebie Did you ever get any of those bags of practice leather? I get so much good stuff in those that that's all I've used and haven't had to touch my side yet.

Well, I haven't been around that long so I don't know if there's a technical difference in terms. I want to say that saddle stitched is hand stitched, but can't say for sure. That being said, I don't think an average customer is always going to associate saddle-stitched with hand stitched, so I would always make it a point somewhere that you do all of your work my hand so that they can appreciate what you do.

I say we use 4 Our normal 3 that we all seem to use plus 1 more that must be of a style included in the lucky 7 kit (pear shader, backgrounder, cam, or veiner). I'm voting that way because I think Sylvia's main point was to get people to use those "other" tools in the kit in a manner that they wouldn't normally do. Myself - using them at all meets that description

Hey - I have all those tools!!! To me they're more of a design and border kind of thing. So, I need to start using them to their ability more. Oh yeah, Chancey, I'm glad to see you're using that old hammer beveler more often now. I'm actually working on trying to build some consistency between the two. The skulls are all hammer beveled where everything else I've done since getting my swivel bevel has been done that way. I actually find I get darker burnishing with the hammer, but I think that's more of a "casing vs. amount of impact" issue that I need to work on some more.

I might have to give this stuff a try until I can find a good source of actual hardware. Good information for anybody else who might be searching around in the same situation. http://www.athenaallergy.com/products/Nickel_Guard_2_Pack_Refill-19-4.html Right now she's using clear coat nail polish - so I guess I just have to see how much more durable this stuff is.

Does anybody know of a place to get hypoallergenic hardware? Right now I have an issue where I'm dealing with someone who's really allergic to Nickel and has issues with many other metals. Primarily I need to find some large snaps - Line24 size, but I can also see needing various buckles for cuffs and belts. So far I'm not really turning anything up on Google accept for stuff only suitable for lightweight fabric.

Well, it sounds like you're well on your way to getting a handle on it then. I think everything else will just be trial and error to fine tune your technique with it.

Yeah, you'll want to use it just like your blade. Granted, your angle is pretty extreme compared to what I normally do (unless I'm in a tight spot), but that's me. It actually works a lot better with the leather noticeably wet without puddles. If it's dry enough to tool like normal - it's nowhere near wet enough. The key to remember is that there's no hammer to force the leather into shape, so you've got to press it into submission. Also, there's a sweet spot for the burnishing between bevel blade wet and tooling wet. I'm still trying to get better at finding it every time. From your picture (don't know if that's actually while you were working) all you're probably going to accomplish is sore hands from pressing too hard and skip marks from the beveler flying away from you (ask me how I know.....). I think it comes with the shallow angle like that to really press down the open field of the design. But, I got myself another one that I can modify for really tight circles that the stock size will never get into cleanly - so obviously I'm not above modifications.

Any mods out there who can close this thread down once and for all???? It's gone on for 4 pages past the OP's original question and it's really not contributing anything anymore. PLEASE!!! NO MORE POSTS TO THIS THREAD!!!

I was wondering this myself when I ordered my first side, so I asked a co-worker what his dad did (old-timer who's been working leather since the 20's I believe). He told me he had it all over in dresser drawers and totes and stuff like that. So, I cut my belly off (using it for something separate) and rolled up the rest of the side loosely to be placed back in the shipping box placed in a corner. Then I rolled up the belly the same way and placed it in a large tote right next to my work bench and also put all my other smaller pieces in there. That makes it really handy to just reach in there and grab what I need. Had my tote been a little longer I could have gotten the side in there too like I planned, but it was about 2 inches too short, so I made do.

Hmmmmm. I don't have many problems with the gradual curves (famous last words). I always find myself in trouble with the tight little circles. I know it's that dreaded practice word though.

Yeah Buddy, you get me in trouble all the time. But there's no better way to learn how to shovel then to dig out of your own grave So, has anybody heard from Milo on the status of this wonderful seat??