Cyberthrasher

Hmmmmm. I don't have many problems with the gradual curves (famous last words). I always find myself in trouble with the tight little circles. I know it's that dreaded practice word though.

Yeah Buddy, you get me in trouble all the time. But there's no better way to learn how to shovel then to dig out of your own grave So, has anybody heard from Milo on the status of this wonderful seat??

Doesn't even look like the same seat anymore with the pad and coloring. Did you mix that color or is it straight?

Yeah, that would be fine to start with. The knife and mallet in the kit are a little sub-par, but all the other stuff that's good in it would set you back at least $60 if you were to buy it separately, so that alone is worth it. If you're going to buy the kit, I really do suggest also getting a bag of practice leather. The kit leather has been treated weird and really doesn't tool the way it's supposed to. My work really started improving once I got a hold of the real stuff and figured out what it was supposed to be like. Besides, then you'll be able to practice designs before you make stuff out of the kit patterns.

I find all their beginner tools are usually better as well. I've never purchased anything from Tandy because I always find better stuff for lower or same prices on Springfield's site. But, the Tandy kit is a good way to start - as long as you realize that there is better stuff out there once you're ready to get down to work outside of the kit.

Great job!! That's the first non-carved piece we've had this month and it looks great.

Oooh. I think I'm in the mood for some Howlin Wolf and John Lee Hooker this morning. I've been in such a Pantera and Megadeth mood lately that I've lost track of my old school favorites.

Looks great with the butt wearing any other closeups?

Man, really sorry to hear that.

Well, you should have a good start then. You have books and tools, now you just gotta hop in and go for it. Don't get too caught up in the reading. I've learned a lot more from making mistakes over the past couple months (just started myself in December) then I have from reading. Once you get going you'll have more an idea of what kind of stuff you need to research on, so you don't get so much information overload. One thing I'll tell you about the tools, out of the entire kit the only ones I use for my work are the blade and beveler. I've gotten quite a few things since then for finish work, but my designs always come down to the 2 tools. If you check out the challenges way down below (Special Events, Contests and Classes) you'll see some of the work a handful of us are doing with a limit of 3 tools.

Well, usually it's just a matter of wetting the leather and then tracing over your design (ink side up) with a stylus to lightly imprint the lines onto the leather (I use a dead ball point pen for my stylus). I'd suggest taking a gander through all the topics here on the forum (mostly in the "how do I do that" section), as well as taking a look at the videos here: http://www.tandyleat...aft-Videos.aspx That should get you started. Is there anything in particular you want to work on? Do you have any tools yet? Tandy is great for the videos and how-to's, but I'd rather get "beginner" tools from Springfield Leather - same prices but better quality and better people.

Yeah, I'm at a point right now where I'd rather be putting product out then making a pile of random designs. So, anything I do has got to be able to be sold.

Did they all want belts at the same time?

See, I knew there had to be something funny there. Here's the good stuff. Still a little spendy at $0.20 a sheet, but it will last. http://www.amazon.com/3M-PP2500-Plain-Copier-Transparency/dp/B00004TS5I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1332172557&sr=8-2 My children's tracing paper I'm using says 40 gm or something like that and it will definitely melt in a printer. But, like I said, I use the tracing with pencil to my advantage to understand the design and what the cuts are going to be a little better.

Well, I did the same search (minus gsm) when I first ran out. Search for something like transfer paper or something and you'll get lots of results. A lot of people use the clear shelf paper available in most places like walmart or the dollar store (some reason I couldn't find any in mine). Other people just say Vellum paper with not discussion on weights. I'm not sure why those transfer sheets cost you so much. Just to be sure we're on the same page, you were looking at the overhead projector sheets right? Like I said earlier, I have absolutely NO problems with the cheap lightweight tracing paper. It was $2 for a 40 sheet pack. I'd say just get yourself some of that and then start making things. You can focus on higher quality paper later if you're not happy with the results for some reason.

Ok, here it is as a challenge entry. Working on the dye right now.

Well, if you're going to do that then you might want to get the clear transfer sheets instead. Then you can save them and re-use the design. But, I'm at a point right now where penciling it helps me regain some of my unused art skills and also gets me more familiar with working the design.

YAY!! It's St. Patrick's Day, I finished the bracelet, and I have a very yummy beer to match! Now I've gotta try to get started on the next one before everybody starts showing up.

Excellent job for a first seat. I keep on getting prodded to do one myself but haven't taken the plunge.

I use the cheap tracing paper from wal mart every day - no dissolving problems here. It's light and doesn't wrinkle up as bad as the Tandy stuff did. Now, I would like to get some real Vellum paper, but can't afford it. So, if you were going to get some, I'd say something in the 60 - 80 lb area would be about right. I'm not sure how that translates to gsm. I have a 60 lb drawing pad here that says 89 g/m, so maybe 100? But, then again if you press really hard, the heavier the better. I don't press as hard because I like to be able to change my mind on the design one final time before I cut.

Very nice. Did you do the snaps or did you find them somewhere?

Unfortunately, no. This weeks been kind of hell at work, so I've been having to do some later nights and by the time I get home I'm pretty beat and don't want to force myself to think on anything (9:30 at night and this is the first time I've been online all day). I might get something going this weekend though. I need to get a few more bracelets done so I can get some funding started, so I'll probably get another similar one started.

I think it's available as an e-book on Tandy's digital library.

I'm pretty new to finishing, but I would think that you could strip the final finish off and to a recolor that way. I have heard nothing but bad things about the Eco products outside of people who were paid by Tandy. But, I don't want to say change to something else because I really don't know enough to say that. I will say that I've used some Eco Flo products and they were very difficult to work with and made me not want to dye things. Now that I have some Fiebings my work is able to really pop and look the way I imagine it. Since they were recalled in the past because of that, is it possible you have a batch that never made it back? Is it something you could return and get a fresh supply?

Ah, I think I understand then, since it sounds like my problem. For me, it's doing stuff like really tight circles, so if that's what you mean then I feel your pain. What I've noticed is that the knife does its "swivel" job best in that situation when it's as vertical as possible. Holding the knife in one spot and turning it without pulling will make the cut in a circular motion. You can get some cool effects by starting with your blade tilted back toward you and then spinning it around while cutting to turn back and pull toward yourself. But, since that works the best the more vertical the knife is, it's hard to get those tight circles to come out smooth with a straight edge getting in the way. I think the key is to find the sweet spot between riding on the corner of the blade and having it vertical to make the tight corner. This is where I've been contemplating a filigree/angled blade that would let me have the knife vertical but still only have a small corner of the blade in the work. But, I still think it's more of a practice/technique thing that I need to work on. I know people who have been doing this stuff for decades with the tools that both you and I have, so it's gotta be possible