electrathon

A patent would be a good idea if you are planning on building thousands (or more) if something. In general, a basic patent will cost you about $10,000-$20,000. Not worth the expense unless you are confidant that you will sell enough of the tools to make a profit. Keep in mind that you gave a very vague description for my next answer: I would be interested in a tool that will do this. Depending on the design and quality, I would say it wold be worth about $20-$50, depending on a lot of variables. I am not a profesional and in general, only have a few expensive tools.

Personally, I think round holes look incredibly tacky on a bible cover. Wallets, binders, anything like that falls into the same catagory. There is virtually no stress on the lacing, so tear out is not a big deal. Now, I will admit, I can't envision what double cordavan lace looks like, so I am not sure of the pattern appearance. Slots look much more custom and not mass produced.

That was me! I don't post that often, but I am here reading every day. The idea with doing the pattern 4 times is that you will be able to see improvements each time. When I started carving I was told to do it this way and it was amazing the improvement that I could see with each revision. I numbered them all and still look back at them from time to time and am horrified at how bad my early carving was. I am still far from professional, but do OK now. I like the pattern posted. I will have to think about carving and entering it. I was so excited that there was going to be a contest, but that faded when I read that the "winners" were being selected by socialism and not by talent or ability. While I know I have no chance of being the best, it is difficult to strive to be when the finish line is not in the same place for everyone. Aaron

I bought a snake skin a while ago and ran into the same issue. You want the scales to fall off, they will anyways. I soft bristle brush will loosen them and then the skin will feel much better to the touch. It will not harm it to remove them, it will help.

I took a class from Pete a few weeks ago and recieved a copy of his book. It is a big help for those with no artistic ability (like me). I would definatly recomend it.

When I first started I was told to do the same pattern 4 times. It is amazing how you will see your work improve.

Very nice braiding. When I get more patient I am planning on learning too.

Cyrus, I am incredibly impressed with both your stitching and your tooling. Aaron

Your work looks good, and welcome! Aaron

LOL Unless your name is Patrick too you are sort of commited to passing this one on.

The trouble would be that the compressor needs air circulation and inlet air. They often tend to overheat when running constant.

If quiet is truely a big deal I would get a diving air tank and use that as your air supply. It will run an air brush for days of constant use, then you will have to take it in and get it refilled. Use an old first stage regulator to reduce your air preasure to about 100 psi, then treat it loke a normal air source after that.

You likely woill have no trouble, the shipping containers are pretty well sealed. Oiling anything around salt air is a good idea. When you get there just wipe everything down with a rag that has brake clean on it. All the oil will come off easily. Vacuum packing is a great idea, just a lot of work.

Thank you both for the informatioin. I was afraid that the scales coming off would affect the look of the skin pattern. I will start rubbing it to remove the scales. I know that this will not be overly durable, I plan on it being mainly just a dress belt (with as often as I dress up this should last me for a long time.

I have a rattlesnake that I want to make a belt out of. The skin seems to have scales on it that really do not look that durable. The appearance is that it will flake off if rubbed on. Is this a trait of the snake or something to do with the way it is tanned? Is there a way to traet it to make it more long term durable? My plan was to cover a cow leather blank to get the thickness, then to lace all the way around for character. I was going to make a matching wallet with the leftover, but that would be subject to even more wear. Aaron

Many of the high end holsters use horse hide. It is generally "stiffer" and more rigid.

Personally, I have little to no ability to draw and create on my own. I am pretty good at copying though. I have a number of times scanned in a similar pattern that does not fit the piece I am working on. I then stretch or shrink it according to what I am working on using the simple programs that came with my camera. I print it out and can test fit it. If necessary, I can hand draw in a line or two, then scan it back into the computer. I have the pattern saved for the future this way too. When I am done I print the image onto transparancy paper (clear plastic) with a laser printer and I can then trace it onto the leather.

It does not work for me. The map says it is loading, and loading and loading. I waited about 2 minutes and gave up. I am on a very fast connection here too.

I have not signed up yet but am likely going. I am in Gresham. I may be up gor carpool or a room split. Aaron

How about a link or your user name then. EBay is so full of people trying to resell Tandy products at inflated prices it is tough to scan through.

I figures it had something to do with the ignorance thing. Hidden features are always tough for me to figure out.

I am offering $300 if you pay shipping. I can paypal you the money. Aaron Why is there not a way to PM someone in the links? Or possibly I am just to ignorant to figure it out.

I "copy" the patttern onto transparancy sheets (clear plastic) on a copy machine. It works great, fast and easy. You can not use an ink-jet printer, it needs to be a laser printer to work.

I have been thinking about making some shoes like these, I like them. But, the copper rivits will turn your toes green.

I really like it, and in general I do not like animal pictures. It looks great. One improvement I would suggest is when you are lacing, lace around to the starting point and then unlace the first couple stitches, they always are at the wrong angle at the starting point. Then when you join the lacing into the starting point it will be flawless and not have the seam show so visably.