electrathon

Great, see you there. I am hoping we get enough tot he first few to get a slow going. Leon, you are online. How about you.

Is there someone who can take this ball and pattern it out? I would like it to be computer generated so it is exactly symmetrical. Also, if scaling to bigger or smaller is not easy I need a short explanation. I want to cover pre-existing balls for the core and do not know what to buy yet. Aaron

I have it set up with Tana that we can hold meetings at the Tandy store. It must be during business hours (Tandy upper management requirement) so it can not be on a weeknight. What is planned at this time is that we will have two meetings, Sept 7 and Sept 21. At this time I am visioning a workshop class from about 10-1. Bring whatever you want to work on, ask questions, help others. If this works we will keep doing it. If not, there will only be two. Everyone is welcome, from master to beginner. Ask questions if you have any. Aaron

You can easily bring it to a high gloss. Threat it like a pair of shoes, put on polish and buff. Aaron

they are midas stamps

I have heard that a good number to use when opening a business is that you need to have savings to not make a cent for three years. You may be making money now, but it only counts how much more you are going too make. I would say if you are going to sell products like a $3500 saddle, they will find you. If you are going to be selling a can of sealer, you better be where they already are. Another thought, the worst place to open a business in where there are none, if it was a good idea it is likely that there already would be one. The best place is next door to a successful shop. Lure them in because you are new, keep then with your quality.

I can put you on a group buy list. Are you getting it up in Canada or buying it from Abbey? What have you had to pay when you are buying to rolls you are splitting into short rolls? Or is there someplace selling short rolls?

If there are others interested in this I have no objection to a group buy. You would have the cost of the thread and the next layer of shipping to you, so about $35 per 500 meter roll. It is really not that expensive, just a little hassle with the overseas issue. I have been using it for a little while now and I do like it.

The leather is two layers thick. The top layer has "windows" cut into it.

Get it wet. Push it onto your face. Once it has the shape put it into the oven on the lowest setting with the door open part way. Every few minutes pull it out and push it back onto your face. If you can not pick it up and hold it then it is way to hot. Do not get it hot!. About 20 minutes and you are done. Do not get it hot. Do not get it hot.

Did not know I was beating him down, thought it was a discussion. Shtoink, I apologize to you. Aaron

Chrome tanned= sorf and pliable. Vegtable tanned = stiff and firm. You likely want vegtable for bike bags. Kangeroo is great, but will not be thick enough for what you want, it is usually pretty thin. My answer to your question is: Per-dyed vegtable tanned cow.

I should have looked on Ebay when I was looking for knife parts. I will likely order some and make a knife just because. I really like making things myself far better than buying stuff. It is odd that he has it listed at the top for 20 and when you read the posting it says there are 10. Either way they are cheap.

Insole bend is available at anyplace that supplies cobblers. Not sure about other areas, but here I know that Oregon Leather In Portland has them. You can but it by the sheet or pre-cut oversized foot shape. For just a few that is my recomendation. I see the issue on the misalignment, that is definatly an issue to fix on your next set. You had a learning experience and just make sure you do not do it again. Other issues I see are the edges of the leather should have been burnished. Round off the top and bottom strap ends on the front support strap. Get some Fiebings dye and darken up the leather a little, they are going to look less pretty (read icky) after a few coating of foot sweat and dirt rub into them. Another idea if you are going to make many sets of these is to get a set of shoe lasts to form your straps over. You will easily get the sizing spot on that way. Aaron

Look up the price on small bearings, they are very expensive. Bigger ones, like the ones in the link above that are over an inch in outside diameter can be bought for a couple dollars each. Find one that has an outside diameter of 3/8" and you better be saving up for a while. I was going to make a swivel knife a while ago and was shocked at the cost. In this project, a bushing would be available (or could be easily made) for pocket change. It would functionally work as well or better than a bearing. If high speed was involved (like in a hard drive) a bearing would be better. But something that is realistically going to be moved less than 10,000 times in forever and only a 1/3 of a revolution a bushing is a more functional choice. More expensive and overbuilt does not always better, sometimes simple is the best choice.

Overall looking good. I too would suggest you tie the ends together inside the cork. Depending on the kink of contact cement you may have zero issues to it may be letting go soon. Insole bend leather is the best choice for the insoles, will hold up a lot better than the standard vegetable tan. After you glue the bottom sole on a belt sander with a 36 grit belt will clean up the edges well.

See, told you. No matter what form of hand sewing you use there is always controversy. Aaron

Cutting boards are cheap at any store that sells kitchen items. Or return it to tandy ans get a new one.

The second bearing is going to cause binding unless you have the slot cut either perfect or too wide. It serves no purpose. There is no guide needed, your pivot is on the other bearing. The Tonka truck lift rod is a simple and good idea, put a bushing on it if you want smooth. Small bearings are very expensive and hard to find. You sound like an engineer guy so I am betting you have computer parts laying around. Bust open a hard drive and you will find a couple small bearings. Likely not as small as you are looking for but could save you a hundred dollar bill if you are going to use four.

My input: You are way overcomplicating the pivot. A couple cabinet door offset hinges would be very cheap and be fast and easy. You also need the offset to fix the problem with the lid intruding below the line when it is opened. This will likely interfere with the case, depending on if you make the insert thicker than the case bottom. Also, there is no reason for the second bearing and the slot. Really serves no purpose. There also is no need for bearings in the first place. They are very expensive and serve no purpose at the speed you will be opening and closing the lid. A single nail would make a very functional pivot. Plywood is less prone to cracking when it is so thin, but regular wood is better looking (form over function verses function over form). If you were closer and really want solid wood I could plain you down a few pieces. Aaron

It is true.

If I did that my feet would be moving so fast that I would not be able to keep up with myself!

Try using tan kote over the antique and RTC under the antique. Aaron

I just bought a sticher so i get a break on the next pair and will not have to hand sew on the midsole to the welt. this is going to make things a lot easier.

jJust got the time to watch the video. Very cool. Same thing as I am doing but I see machines they are using that can do in seconds that will take me hours. Nice to see one of the few remaining shoe factories.