electrathon

How about $40 for the 3/4" sets.

Yes, very necessary if your knife is sharp.

Oregon Leather in Portland has it.

It needs to be stiff enough to support the blade. No chrome tanned, veg tanned only. 3 layers, front, welt, back. If you fold the leather the front and back are one piece. You always want a welt to protect the sewing. Generic answers, there are exceptions.

If you have never sharpened a knife, do not try to learn on a round knife! Learn on your kitchen knives, they are soft and easy to sharpen. When you can dry shave with them, move on. Paul is a sharpening guru, watch his video carefully.

Often times synonomous for soft steel. Hard to sharpen knives often are hard to sharpen because they are hard, and soft, easy because they are soft. It would be interesting to see a rockwell reading on it.

I'll be in my electric car, so I just hope to not sink into a puddle and get shocked.

Looks nice. Take the messed up one out of the scrap pile, dye it all dark brown, antique it with silver. It will look nice and you save the work.

Definatly purses and bags. There are so many styles and designs, Depending on the sizes of the scraps, patchworks bags look nice.

Whoop-Whoop. Saturday at 10:00 At Portland Tandy. First meeting!

As a test, wrap tape areound the wheel before you grind on it.

Patchers are not used in the construction of boots, they are used in the repair. If you were going to sew a design on the side of a boot it likely would be done with a flatbed machine.

A little Lexol would fix that right up.

In reference to the above, part of the issue here is how good are you at sharpening? This was where my statement about only buying a good one came from. If you can sharpen your pocket knife sharp enough to dry shave the hairs off your arm you will have no issues. If not, practice sharpening. A round knife can be tricky to get sharp. It needs to be very sharp (sharper than a box cutter blade is new). A good knife will arrive sharp and will stay sharp for a long time. A poor knife will arrive dull and will need sharpening on a very regular basis.

The main answer is Likely going to be Barry King. There are better, but for quality vs cost, hard to beat.

I have not tried this on my splitter, but run into the same issue on my wool plainer. Try splitting a scrap, then raise the blade and send both the split piece and the to be split piece through sandwiched together.

Unfortunately you are not going to find anything unless you have very low quality standards. The visible part of a wallet or belt sewn with 69 or similar thread is going to look bad. You need a machine that runs large thread if you want a quality look. They are hard to find and expensive. But, if you are looking for something that is used to assemble the insides of wallets and such, there are a number of upholstery machines around that will work. A 29K is not the best choice. It is an awesome machine to sew patches on a jacket though, or to patch your jeans (it sews all directions, including sideways).

I don't know that much about it. I just remember reading a few times that the tanning chemicals are so harsh they "bleach" out most of the color. So the tanneries add a little color to make the leather look more natural. Every now and then I see veg tan that is almost white, other times it is one of many shades of brown. As to ordering it, I would guess if you ordered enough you could get a production run. My guess though is that would be more leather than you will use in your lifetime.

Head knives are debated back an forth all the time. Some leatherworkers use them for almost everything and others can not figure out how to use them. If you are not sure, I would recommend you talking directly to someone that likes one and have them show you how it works. DO NOT buy a cheap one, you will just hate it and figure they are all worthless. Personally, I use mine a little over half of the time. I have other knives too, and depending on what I am cutting I will switch back and forth. My recommendation, as a beginner I would recommend you using a box cutter. They are cheap and relatively easy to use. As you progress, keep your eyes open for a class or the opportunity to talk to an old leatherworker and see how he uses the round knife and go forward from there.

I believe the 1.2mm is about the size of the Tandy thread. Maybe someone else can speak up that is sure though.

Put tape on the side of the stone so it will only cut on the top.

sold

This took me forever to figure out. I don't know why or how or what (there are a number of issues I get frustrated with on this forum) but I accidently stumbled on this answer. There is a square in the top left corner of this box. Not sure what it is an image of, but if you hover it says, "toggle editing mode". Click on it and you will be able to "paste".

I just made one today for my round knife. First question, is the knife you are making the sheath stainless and if so, is it magnetic? Some stainless is. Use rare earth magnets, 10 for $3 at Harbor freight. You have to stack up some leather. The normal welt. Then a very thin layer of leather. Next a layer of leather as thick as the magnets. Punch holes on this layer for the magnets. Next a top layer of leather. Glue it all together and sew around it like a normal sheath. You can use magnets on both sides of the blade or just on one side.

I neat-lac it, then antique with Fiebing's antique. Follow with a layer of tan coat.