Bard Skye

I'm going to have to give that a try, too. Copper, eh? Sounds like that could look pretty B-A! And I've seen your masks. You're a Leather Goddess, for sure. Oh my, that sounded a bit kinky, didn't it? Thanks. Skye

Very Cool! Thanks for the page. Serves as a nice little refresher to remind me of what I learned all those years ago. Now, I just have to apply them to leather instead of ceramics. Thank You! Skye

That's what I've done with my AutoCadd. I've built "libraries" of elements that I commonly use, then scale, orient, and place in the drawing I'm working on. Now I'll have to start putting together libraries of leather carving elements. <g> It's a bit of work to start with, but worth it in the long run. Great work, Spinner. Skye

That dry brushing technique sounds promising. I remember using it when I was dabbling in ceramics. Considering that the figure is a black boar's head, what you describe would be perfect. And you're right about the Super Shene. I just got through playing around with some (on tooled scrap), and the thinner the remaining layer, the happier it is! Thanks for the input. Skye This idea has promise too! (I *love* this place!) Makes me wonder if some of the lighter stains might be used with a resist, as well. Just a question of how well they'd cover black. Thanks. Skye

Does anybody have any ideas on how I might get a lighter color down in the details of my tooling? I have a figure that I'm tooling which is supposed to be black. Of course, all the detail just dissapears into a profile until your eyeball is right on top of it. I was considering (carefully) painting a resist like Super Sheen down into the cuts and bevels, but this could be rather problematic with the finer detail. Could Super Sheen be applied like an antiquing stain, with a sufficient amount wiped off the higher areas to allow dye penetration? Please Help! Skye

I don't know if a re-enactor can beat a Panther. I've had a 18 x 24 ft classic pitch marquis with 7 ft walls for over 10 years now. Not the brilliant white it used to be, but otherwise in perfect condition after a *lot* of hard use and storms. I love it! I just wish it didn't require 2 people to set the main poles.... With the weather like it is here in Western Washington, the main Bardic Circle has been held inside it on more than one occasion.... <g> Skye

I'm afraid some people do. Go into the press kit and read up on the Aliso Viejo incident. The city was about to outlaw styrofoam cups because DHMO was used in their manufacture! BTW, "bard" is a title. As in musician / singer / entertainer. It's what I do in the SCA. Skye

Well said, King's X! Please allow another vet to say Welcome and Thank You! Skye

On a related subject... I've noticed that lace that I've cut from my veg-tanned tooling leather breaks much easier than commercial lace of the same dimentions. Is there something I'm doing wrong, or is it just the nature of the beast? (different tanning / type of leather) Skye

You're absolutely right. I use *far* more hazardous things than oxalic acid on a daily basis. I still prefer using things that I already have around the house, though. You should check out this site: http://www.dhmo.org/ Be sure to take a look at the "press kit" while you're there. Skye

Angster Something I've been wondering about. How do you keep the wax from darkening your artwork? I tried to wax harden a sheath one time. Worked quite well, but the bright red dye turned a deep maroon (quite lovely, actually, but not what I wanted) and the brown dye turned nearly black. Any pointers? BTW, that autumn leaf mug in your other post was bloody GORGEOUS! Skye

Well, now I've got yet more additions to the list of things I've been doing wrong! <g> I've learned more in the last two weeks of reading this forum than I have since I first picked up the instructions to my Tandy Leathercraft Kit when I was a kid. I love this place! Skye

Thank you! Keep crankin' out the eye candy! Skye

Nice leather here, too.

That's the way I thought things were supposed to work: chisels for lacing and an awl for stitching. Skye

Hi Tina Back again with a couple of more questions. What are the dimentions on that scroll case? And, are your colors dye or acrylics? What manufacturer? Thanks again. Skye

Tina - Thanks for the input. I still keep looking at that map..... It's just gorgeous! Maybe I'll try my hand at a map of An-Tir... Skye

You ain't lyin'. I've got a set of his custom knee-highs that I've had for well over 10 years. Cost me a *very* pretty penny, but they're still as good as new after a *lot* of SCA events and Ren Faires. Coin well invested. Skye

Lovely little device. It's called a "sap". Skye

Beatiful work! I've just returned to leather carving, myself, and still need a *lot* of practice / advice. What did you use to get the "bubble" texture along the shorline of your map? Skye

A *most* excellent memorial, my good sir! And lovely work as well. I've been putting all of my own gear together as well. Takes time, but it's worth it. I'll have to post some of my things for your approval. (or dis-approval <g>) Skye

Very nice. How did you get the ridges? Are they in the wood, or raised from the leather?

If you're ever in An-Tir, I know a household you can camp with...... <g> Congratulations! Skye MacIntyre, Bard

I haven't tried any vinegargoon myself as yet. I just heard about it and have been chasing down all of the references to it I can find on this site. In other posts, it's been said that you don't want to over neutralize the leather. Leather is *supposed* to have an acidic pH, and over neutralizing will cause it to crack and deteriorate after a relatively short time. I haven't made very many sheaths yet, but I have a good friend who is a Master Bladesmith. (I'm trying to get my sheaths good enough to go with *his* blades!) He's always told me that a sheath is for *carrying* a blade, NOT storing it. Given the slightest provocation, leather will pick up moisture and trap it inside with the knife, causing rusting, pitting, and discoloration. This is especially true with carbon steel blades. I would think that if the leather is properly dried and oiled, the vinegaroon would not cause any real problems. Just my 2 cents worth... That and another buck will get ya a cup of coffee. Skye

*I* like it! Don't look like "rookie" work to me....