Josiah

If I get a j frame blue gun, will chater arms and other snub nosed work with holsters made from it, or would I be better off using the ruger blue gun? It looks like I would as long as I left extra space due to different handle geometry.

Airbrushed it on a wallet and it worked great. No dye lift at all

Holds up fine under abuse. Many use it on motorcycle seats and such. Best method of application, I don't know. I am going to try airbrush in a day or so as sponges and daubers lift dye, especially antique.

Whoops. Couldn't figure out how to post and quote a post on my phone. Problem isn't cc purse. It is the holster inside the purse that allows pistol to be fired without drawing from holster. Those are what there is problem with.

I think there are other posts on here stating that a holster that allows the pistol to be fired without drawing requires special licensing. Some other guys might be able to say for sure yes or no, but pretty sure that is the case.

Thanks. The clip is from Springfield and seemed a good idea in my head

Here is my first holster, let me know what you think. I don't like the clip nor will I use it again as it creates a nasty bulge in my waistband. I have tweaked the pattern so the trigger stitch line will be closer on the next one. Pistol is my custom compact RIA .45 acp

Well, I was called yesterday and told that the bike with this seat took 2nd place in the bobber class at the Easyrideers Show in Colombus this past weekend The head instructor is quite obviously photoshopped onto it lol. I have not been able to get a better pic of the bike though.

I think tube rivets go in the bottom. It will punch the hole and set the rivet all at once as long as the leather isn't too thick

No ill effects but I have experimented alot with inconsistent results. Just easier to use stain made for leather

1/4 inch kangaroo lace through 1/8 holes for solo seats. It is more expensive, but worth it. As to rotary punches, I have a CS Osborne one with no wobble and I like it alot. I have done 6 seats with it with no problem

Try a torx instead of a Philips head for snowflakes.

I have fixed the braid using David Theobald's advice and rubbing antique paste into the bare spots with a toothbrush. On next seats, I moved the holes slightly closer together and a little closer to the edge and that eliminated the gaps.

I just got one of Bearman's handles. I also have medium sized hands and it fits great. Very happy with it, and it is a work of art along with being a great tool.

3-4 oz Hermann Oak

Cs Osborne rotary punch on lace holes and reg hole punch for mount studs

I am planning on purchasing a bob douglas awl needle, but I cannot justify the 75 dollar price tag for the handle. Barry King has handles for less than half the price of a Douglas handle. The Douglas awl needle description though says that it is specially designed to fit in Douglas handles, so I am wondering if it will fit in any other handles. Thanks for the help.

Yes. For some reason, I thought the end was supposed to go back through the loop created by the rest of the thread and where the needle split the thread. That created an actual knot that was too big to fit through holes.

Thanks guys. The tutorial posted helped and when I reviewed the Stohlman book to figure out why it was different, I found that I had misunderstood part of it which was causing my problems. Went and practiced today and it worked great.

I have an Osborne sewing awl that I am currently using for my handstitching projects. I am saving for a better awl, but for now that is what I have to work with. The problem that I am having is that when I attempt to use the thread sold by Springfield (who I have no problems with, I just happend to buy their thread) I can't get it to fit through the holes. I am using the needle lock knot used by Al Stohlman and it just makes a ball at the end of the needle won't fit. I went to Springfields site, thinking i purchased the wrong size of thread but they have no size choices available only length, spool type, waxed or unwaxed, and linen or polyester. Is my thread at fault or my awl or what? Currently using coat and garment thread which I know is too small.

There is no clear-lac. I antique without putting any sealer on top of the oil dye. I have done both with and without sealer, and like without better. It is colder in my workshop (50's) could it be that the oil dye didn't dry enough?

I stained this wallet using light brown oil dye from Fiebings, waited a day and wiped on a coat of Fiebings dark brown antique paste and was left with this nasty smudge. I have never had this happen before and am wondering if anyone has seen this type of thing and knows how to keep it from happening again. I did have a some liquid sitting on top of the paste that I tried to mix in, but may not have mixed in very well. Just not sure if that could cause it or what. I saved the project by deglazing, and then spraying a dark chocolate dye fade.

Simplest and easiest, would be to follow Roger's tutorial on how he stretches leather over the edges and rivets it to the underside, smoothing and cutting off extra as he goes. That will eliminate the lace or "piping"

This is the first wallet I have ever done, along with the first time hand sewing, sadlle stitching or anything other than lace. I had my sister-in-law order one for her husband, and I needed to do one real quick so all the mistakes weren't on his. It is using coat thread which was the heaviest duty stuff I had laying around, but I think I need something a little thicker. I used a Chaylor-Fennelli interior which is why I didn't bother taking pics of it.