Josiah

Thanks for the compliments. The basketweave is his one inch single rope straight. If you look on Double K leather's site, it is 8676-00.

That is awesome the second time around too. On the brass knuckles at the top, where the edge is square, do yoiu too the foremost line or just cut? I have been trying to figure it out in my head as I haven't had a lot of time to experiment with it. I just changed the knuckles on my Love thy Neighbor seat in order to avoid screwing it up.

Feibings bag kote is a finish designed specifically for bags and things that will be out in the weather.

This is a seat built for a chopper built by students at the Power Sport Institute in Cleveland. I graduated from there a couple of years ago. I am hoping to get pics of the bike soon also. It is a Thompson choppers frame with an S&S 124 powerplant. The paint is a crazy green and purple with old-school graphics. I was almost late getting this seat to them as I waited over a month for my Barry King basketweave stamp to come in, and I am glad I did. The stamp is amazing compared to the craftool one I bought last year.

Nice. That turned out pretty good.

I never had an issue with them either, other than recently calling and them not having the color needed, which seems to be an issue across the board with 1/4 kangaroo lace. Y-knot had it and I needed some quick. It lays flatter, and laces a lot easier due to being softer.

Here's the latest. I switched lacing, from lace from Springfield to Y-knot lace. The Y-knot lace is impressive. It is much softer and seems stronger and is easier to work with. I will def stick with them for lace, and Springfield for everything else.

Really like this one, despite that I am a US Marine. lol That lacing is awesome.

Thanks for the compliments, they are appreciated. The scroll work was done with a 1/4 angled blade and even though I know it is not the "proper" method, I do it in about 1/8 in increments and very slowly. The original artwork is by Bert Grim, but was modified by another unknown tattoo artist and then further modified by me.

This design is a modified version of a traditional back piece from the 40's. I made the lace holes one size bigger than 1/8 on my multi-punch and won't do that again as it is a lot harder to keep it tight.

I have been using leather balm with atom wax on my seats as that is what most people on here suggest, but it has been driving me crazy with lifting my antique and moving it around and then I struggle with getting it even again. Will tan kote work just as well? Fiebings Fantastic Finishes says they are similar and Tan Kote is used by a lot of saddlemakers, but I am wondering if there is a reason most don't use it on motorcycle seats? Also, would Tan Kote followed by Leather Balm work? Thanks for the help

I think it might have to do with the growing popularity of Japanese style tattoos. Tattoos and motorsickles seem to go hand in hand.

Thanks for the compliments.

Latest seat finished. Decided to see how it would look to just use neatsfoot oil and sheridan brown antique paste. I am not crazy about it , but it didn't turn out too bad.

pretty cool.

Thanks guys for tips and help. I am using about arm length pieces of lace so I'll shorten them a little on the next one. I pull super hard on them also so maybe if I don't pull so hard it won't stretch as much.

Here is another seat. My last one got no comments good or bad, so please let me know what you think and if you would do something different. I also have a question with lacing. I used 1/4 inch kangaroo lace through 1/8 inch holes and it looks great on front, but in the back, the lace is cupping when it comes out and looks like crap. I am wondering if my holes need to enlarged a little or if I am doing something wrong. I tried twisting them straight and it didn't work, Rivet gun slid off when I was popping rivets which explains scratch on back. Dangit.!

This is the first seat I have done. Let me know what you think. The back stain is uneven cause I had airbrush problems and fixing it totally would have made it too dark, although the lighting makes it look a lot worse than it is.

http://www.barryking.../handtools.htm. Not sure why this link won't work, but it is under the hand tools link at the bottom of his home page.

Yeah. straight from the bottle and try to brush as little as possible. I dab it on kinda heavy and then don't touch it til dry. you will see it lifting the stain a little but it seems to get absorbed back in as it drys.

I have used it on alot of mine. The only caution is to put it on with a brush and don't rub it til it is dry or it pulls some color out. I started out using a sponge and it pulled some of the antiquing out.

I had the same problem with USMC black. I soaked the leather and then applied the stain and there was almost no buffing left to do.

I am curious about this bone. Is it the creaser available from several stores or did you make it yourself?