Sylvia

I really have no idea... but I would start with COLD water and blot, blot, blot. The trouble is that it might drive the stain further into the leather and leave a water mark. So you might have to rewet the entire thing to get a uniform look.

I would not recommend chrome tanned for your application. I made the mistake of branding (using a wood burner) on some and was so sick afterward from the fumes. For days actually. If you really want to do this get some dyes in pretty large quantities and Vat dye

Tandy had some on their closeout site,... but I see they are gone now. The only alternative I can offer is a "branded Rivet Domer" from tanglefoot traders. It's expensive @ $130 but at least you can use what ever rivets you have on hand. here's the link. http://www.tanglefoottraders.com/#!__knife-sales-page

Thanks, Laban: I am glad you found their products helpful.

I don't know about the others but I would give that a good old buffing with some fine steel wool. Then give it a light coat of machine oil and wipe it down really well.

I would look at a luggage tag pattern. Or just make your own. Trace the ID card on paper or card stock twice. On the first one measure 1/4 inch around the whole thing. On the second one.... measure at least 1/4 inch around 3 sides (short, long, long) and add 1/2 inch at the final short side (for the clip hole) Use a small bottle cap or something similar to round the corners of your drawing. On the first piece, measure in and mark a line at least 1/4" from your original traced line to make the "window" Cut a prototype from scrap leather, an old pair of jeans, or what ever you have. Then punch and sew it up. If the ID card fits well. Make one from your "good" leather. Another way is to use a drawing program and draw one up. I think it is good to learn both ways to make patterns.

Those centering templates are great aren't they? They work perfect. The "saddle stitched by hand" stamp is pretty cool

Cheryl... you could even use your "leather stamps" to impress images into the clay. Not sure how good the molded leather would show that though. I see this method being quite useful for anyone wanting to do formed overlay pieces. Nice idea Treereaper.

How much of a discount on my machine will you give me if I can find info on this? LOL It looks like one that was made in 1871. See photo about here. http://www.ismacs.ne...s_machines.html Here is more info Tom. The stand seems to be something rather special I've not found anything on that yet. http://www.sewmuse.c...adburyindex.htm Here's a link for a manual $17. http://www.tias.com/...1922494788.html And here's a quicky on how to thread and oil. http://website.lineone.net/~bradbury1852/a1repairerthreading.htm

http://www.barryking.com http://hackbarthtools.com/ http://www.robertbeardtools.com/ http://brucejohnsonleather.com/content/index.php/leather_tools_for_sale/ These should get you started. have fun shopping.

Mathematician Alert!! (holds up crucifix and says "Be gone math head!) LOL just kidding. I managed to get my acrylic templates made... BRL has them on ebay... sure makes lay out a lot easier and much more fun.

Squid.... they know when hunting season is.... trust me when deer season comes around.... You'll be lucky to see one scraggly old goat of a deer (tough as heck that no one wants to eat.)

I wonder if a person could use a pipe cutter like what a plumber uses for cutting copper tubing to cut down the snap tubes.

Now you need to make a backgrounder!

hi LeeAnne. did your old tools come with a heat embosser? Back in the 50s or so they used a heat embosser to put gold on leather. The thing looks like a little press with an electric cord.

yeah Cheryl is really a nice lady.

I cringe when I see tool lots that high. Especially if they are Modern Tandy tools. I would much rather see individual prices so people can get what they need and not deal with a plethora of excess tools. But that is just me. Good luck.

Be careful, CountryStyle... you'll end up being a tool maker. Pretty good idea, actually. If you don't have a grinder use some metal files and/or a sharpening stone on the roughest side to help you grind that down. It will still take a while.

LOL It is a very good skill to have.

Good point... but with as many ferdco owners there are out there... it might be worth the maker's while to gain that permission. And it could provide Ferdinand with some residual income.

Now the trick is to find out who they had make the special parts and get them to make after market ones.

As a recipient of some donated goods, I believe in paying it forward when ever I can... I was glad to send you the things I had. Let us know when the next round occurs.

Oh? Well, I had no use for the woman even before we found out what a crook she was. LOL I do believe it would be better with saddle stitching or real leather lace.

I used one of these exact things for a few months before I got my Gary Lyon drill press burnisher. (may he rest in peace) It will work, but you should know that the plastic does start to disintegrate after a while