IngleGunLeather

Thank you!

Hello everyone. I finished up my first western rig today. I finished the belt up a couple weekends ago, but between work and other orders, I got around to the holster yesterday. Finished it up today with the conchos. And why is that them darn concho screws are only 3/16" long? And they're metric. Can't find stuff like that at Ace Hardware. Well, enough ranting. Here's the pics.

J, never used a Boss. I've heard great things about them and many people have great success with them. However, I would suggest comparing the Boss price to a powered machine. Maybe another 5- 700$ to go powered?

I bought my Cobra Class 4 earleier this year. It's taking me a while to learn the ins and outs of the machine, but the sewing looks a heck of alot better than any of my hand stitching. But I learn something new everytime I do a different style holster.

Not seeing any pics Jeff.

I didn't think of hand cranking it through and placing the needle at equal lengths. I could use an over stitch tool for marking the spacing.

Hello everyone. Well, I need a little help with some fine tuning in order to move forward with a western holster with a welt. outer leather: 6/7 oz HO liner leather: 6/7 oz HO welt leather: 2x 6/7 oz HO skived down to taper needle: 23 thread: 207 bonded nylon machine: Cobra Class 4 When I sewed the liner to the holster I was getting consitant stitching at 6 SPI When I went to sew the seam together, well, it turned out nasty. No changes were made from sewing in liner to sewing the seam with welt. I'm sure I need to make a change, but not sure what I need to do. That's where I need your help. Please see pics below. Toe end of seam (equal to four 6/7 oz layers) Trigger guard transition (going from four 6/7 oz to six 6/7 oz layers) Upper trigger guard (full thickness of welt is six 6/7 oz layers) notice the difference in the stitch lengths?

Thank you Leather Machine Company! I just got around to doing the mod. It's so simple, but very effective. No more surging when I press the foot pad.

Hello everyone. I've only had my Cobra Class 4 for a few months. One thing I'm having difficulties with is unequal or inconsistant stitch lengths on dyed leather. I have been doing a test run on scraps prior to starting the job on the real deal. On the scraps (undyed) I'll get 6 SPI, and on the dyed I'll get 7 1/2 to 8 SPI sometimes. The undyed scrap leather and the dyed product leather are of equal thickness as well. I'm guessing the dye is hardening the surface of the leather just enough to prevent the feed dog from doing it's job, sorta like it's slipping half way through the feed. What's frustating is that sometimes I'll get 6 SPI and sometimes I'll get 8 SPI on a single line. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, do you have any suggestions?

Went ahead and used 4/5 oz HO for the cover on the final product. I also learned that I need to order a size 0 bissonette edger for the 4/5 oz. With the exception of a couple long stitches in the turns, I'm satisfied with the product.

I forget where I saw this, but now that you are mentioning it, I remember seeing someone slide the rivet over a scratch awl or something similar and cut the length down with a pair of wire cutters (dykes).

Yes, the rivet and the clip are between the two layers of leather. And you are correct. At no time do I want metal/metal contact on my holsters. I used the double cap rivets that Tandy sells which is great for two 6oz layers. They also have an x-small size.

Thanks for the input. Good news is that I brought the holster in today for the customer for final approval and he's good to go. However, I am going to drop down a thickness for the clip cover. It'll also save some of my 6/7 oz. Thanks again!

Hello everyone. So, I gotta order for an IWB (another first) and below are photos of the mock-up from scrap leather. One thing I noticed when I put it on was that maybe the clip cover (the grain side) was a little too thick (6/7 oz HO). I'm thinking this because I felt like the clip should've clamped down a little more snug over the belt. Now I tried this with a standard off the shelf belt (maybe 7 oz thickness). So, does anyone on here build enough of these to make a recommendation on what thickness leather I should use for the cover? I'm thinking 4/5 HO? The holster itself is also cut from 6/7 oz HO, rough side out. And yes, this is for a lefty. Disclamer: These pictures are not a final production piece. The stitching sucks, it's not dyed, and the edges haven't edged, dyed, or burnished.

Coming from a guy that has a career in machine sewing, I'd have to say that's the biggest compliment I've gotten. Thank you Ron.

Thanks everyone! Compatibility worked. Simple, but yet effective.

Thanks bones. Started in February with pancake holsters.

Yeah, I have one but didn't use it this time. I used the compressed air sprayer that Tandy sells. It worked pretty good for the belt and liner. I sponge dyed the billet and chape, maybe that's the problem. Maybe the sponge allowed the dye to saturate that area around the holes more than the surrounding areas.

when i click on the tab beside my username to get to my messages it won't let me. it goes straight to my profile. And i still can't get to my messages from there. I need admin help please.

Hello everyone. I finally finished my first western belt today. I'm very pleased with the results. It took me long enough to get to this and I learned an enormous amount along the way. I also wanted to say thanks to everyone that helped me on this forum. I will say that I didn't realize how difficult it is to dye tan. Some of the dark spots showed up by me casing to remove foot prints. Never changed back. Weird. If anyone has any tips on keep consistant coloring I'd love to hear from you.

Hey Bobby. Congrats on the Cobra. I've had mine for a few months now and love it. -I'm using 6/7 oz HO with size 23 needle and 207 thread. That combo works for me. -Amount of leather really depends on how much you plan to use. I ordered a side for the western rig I'm working on now. I'll have a good bit left over if I don't waste it. -Haven't tried horse butts......found this in a quick google search horse vs cow -I've done mostly pancake style holsters, easier for me. I've only done one avenger style. Two 6/7 oz pieces of HO sewn with size 23 needle and 207 thread....

Ok. Leather work itself is hard enough, and you have to go and show your excellent airbrush skills. Haha! No fair. All kidding aside, I really like what you've done with blending those two skills together.

I don't seem to have a user control panel. I can't see any messages sent or received. When I click on the drop down tab, it automatically for straight to my profile without letting me select other options. I was also wanted to view threads that I have replied to or subscribed to. Name: Jason Ingle UserName: CountryTrash IP Address: 198.228.216.19 Email Address: jason.ingle.usmc@gmail.com

Alright, after several attempts, I think I got it. I went and bought a thing of Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax Saturday. After reading where a few people said it pulls the dye up, I was worried that I'd have orange tinted thread. This was just a sample piece where one side is just dyed, and the other I applied the Atom Wax with a foam brush. I "patted" it on vice rubbing it in. Then buffed with sheep's wool. I think I'll try airbrushing it on for large pieces. The dye is the Tandy Professional Tan.

Amazing work Chris.