IngleGunLeather

Well, I put it here because it is used for taking pictures of gun leather. Thought maybe since people in here make gun leather they would have some experience in taking pictures of it too. But thanks for the link, I guess I breeze right by that section when I log on.

Hello everyone. I just finished making a light box and thought I'd post a pic to see what ya'll think. I'm getting too much glare off the corners. Right now I'm using a frosted shower curtain and 60 watt daylight bulbs. Anyone built one these things?

Same here. HO B grade is all I order now. Tried Tandy and a couple other tanneries, but I like HO best. I've only done one belt (western) and used the HO inside and out.

I've only attempted this once and it was a while ago. Forum user "Particle" does this to quite a few of his holsters and I believe he talked about it in one of his videos. I'm looking at the book "Coloring with Eco-Flo" and on page 21 it briefly talks about using a sprayer and two different colors of dyes. All it really says is "Apply an overall base coating leather dye using an aerosol sprayer or airbrush. The more even the base coat the better. Option: Add shading around figures and edges so that some areas are a darker color than the base coat color to emphasize and add interest to the design. Allow dye to dry completely. Buff with a clean soft cloth or piece of sheep wool to remove any pigment from the surface." Your technique in application sounds right. I'd recommend allowing the dye to dry longer. Maybe overnight? I'd check to see how much rub-off you have with a white cotton T shirt starting at the edge before working inward to the lighter color.

Hmm. Not sure then. I usually use Tandy ones and haven't had problems other than the stems usually being too long for me. I picked up some shorter stems at Micheals the other day for a couple bucks. They've worked well in the past too. Maybe try another brand or another setter?

can you show us a pic of the male and female side? maybe the stems are too long not allowing a good seat?

Thanks for the input Mike and Paul. I hear what both of you are saying and it make's sense. I'm trying to use what I got on hand, which is 6/7oz.

Hello everyone. I'm hoping you guys can correct me if I'm wrong on my theory and math. My next project is a cross draw 1911 holster for the western rig I recently completed. My customer likes the Will Ghormley "Frazier", but doesn't want all the doo-dads. Well, in Will's instructions he states that the pattern was made for 9-10oz leather. Well, I plan to use two 6/7oz pieces so I can line it. So, that leaves me with altering the pattern. I'm thinking just taking the difference of the two thicknesses and enlarging the pattern? Well, here's the math: 6/7oz (.109in) x 2 = .218in 9/10oz(.156in) x 1 = .156in .218in - .156in = .062in or 1/16in So, if the math and theory are correct, I just need to add 1/16in all the way around the pattern right?

I do Jake. A light spray and then I use a plastic bone folder to clean up machine marks. Sometimes a hammer finds its way in there too.

Thanks for the inputs. I'm hoping he commissions me to start this soon. I think I'll use 6/7 oz for the skin and 4/5 oz for a liner. I saw one on Cabela's that is fleece lined, so I was just wondering what others may line their's with. I don't wana go that route, but will if he asks for it. And they also seem to be selling on the cheap. No way I'll make this thing for 75-100 bucks. My time will be more valuable than that.

got a 1911 in a shipping status right now. Rob is good to go in my book. additionally, he doesn't just supply blue guns, but is off to a great start with supplying holster maker's hardware.

both the knife and the sheath are very nice. what kind of machine are you using and what's your leather thickness on that?

Great looking sheaths. I haven't ventured into that territory just yet. But yes, there are cheaper alternatives to the glass slicker. I picked up this plastic bone folder at JoAnne's a few months back. Made by Martha Stewart. I have a glass slicker too, but I use this after stiching. And I have the round face cobbler hammer always at the ready for some light tapping after I use the folder. Just like Bev said, wet your leather after stitch and this thing will glide right over and smooth out any foot marks left by a machine. Also closes the stitch holes and flattens out the stitching. My goal is to get the surface of my thread even or below the surface of the leather. Plastic Bone Folder Pics were taken with my phone, but they should work. Hot off the machine Add water, elbow grease, and a few love taps with the hammer..... Stitch line smoothed and even with the leather surface Top stitch Bottom stitch (forgot to take a before shot, sorry)

Are the angle of the spines the same? Just wondering. Or would that even matter?

I saw that on his video and have been adding dish soap ever since. And that Tandy leather is by far the worst to mold and it doesn't retain like the HO does.

I'd love to talk to one of them. Sounds like a little R&D is in order.

I noticed that in the video as well. This one only has 18 loops and they are centered from left to right hip. 30 would've wrapped the around the left side almost up to the chape. The customer wants to add another holster (1911) and a double-mag pouch to the left side anyway. If it were covered in bullet loops that would be impossible to do. This belt was made for someone with a 47in waist, which makes the chape side look so long. The far left bullet loop will be on his rear left hip. I think this picture is similar to what you described as being taught. I'm right handed and I think I'd prefer to load this way.

Well, my cowboy customer has mentioned him wanting a rifle scabbard made that he can mount to his saddle. I was just wondering if the were lined with anything other than leather? Like some form of padding? I think I'll snatch up the Will Ghormely pattern for this, but wanted to start working a quote and wanted to know if anything other than leather and buckles were needed. If anyone has ventured down this path I'd like some input. Thanks, Jason

Hey bobby! Looks like you got your Cobra Class 4! Congrats! Looking good man. I personally don't bake mine anymore. I think I did one or two that way in the beginning. Now I just let em dry on their own. Now you got me wanting to practice my basket weaving.

I've done a little research as I had a couple friends approach me to commission a sheath. I'm still researching before I waste a side of beef learning the ropes. One thing I've seen that's recommended by most is a welt to keep the cutting edge away from the threads. Some of the sheaths I've seen also have been skived to connect the belt loop to the body. A great example of one of the most recognizable sheeths would be a ka-bar. just like holsters, there's a bunch a different styles. But, I believe I joined the blade forum and came across a couple tutorials there. Been a while since I looked into it though.

Hey Chris. Are you going to post these on your site? I just finished up my first rig using your belt patterns. The holster was for a Ruger Super Blackhawk and I had to use the customers weapon to make the template. With that being said, I'd love to have a source to order different model six shooters in case the customer isn't local.

just did a quick google image search. seems to be a few pancakes on there. Steyr Google Pics I like this one offered by the Steyr company. I don't know who they're maker is, but I'd add a sweat shield to it if I did one. Steyrarms.com

Thanks Mike. I didn't consider that when making it. I don't have any personal experience wearing a western rig. I used a template to make the belt. He didn't say anything about it either before I went into work on the leather. He wants a 1911 cross draw holster and mag pouch added to the left side. I'll keep your suggestion in mind if someone else orders one and I'll ask them what their preference is. Thanks again.

Thanks Bobby. I wish it were my Ruger, but it's the customer's. Good thing the customer is a friend from work that also threw in a box of ammo for me to shoot. I just wish I could test out the rig, but it's too big for me. I have the hand of god pattern from Tandy, but I don't need it just yet. I need to get me a SAA first.

Thanks Viking. I think I spent more time reading about how to do a welt than actually doing it. But I see now what purpose it serves on the revolvers.