IngleGunLeather

Hello everyone. I've seen a few other members start a thread and keep updating as the build progresses. So, I figured I'd give it a go, good or bad, it's gonna get posted here. I have recently joined the CFDA and went to my first shoot. If you haven't tried the sport of Fast Draw yet, I highly recommend it. So, considering I dabble in gun leather, why not make my own rig. 'Bout time I made something for myself anyway. I bet you all know how that feels. In this thread I'll be using the template that I bought from Chris Andre of Slick Bald Customs http://www.slickbaldcustoms.com/ . So far, I've cut out the holster template and other pieces such as the welt, hammer strap and band and glued to chip board. After everything was glued to the chip board with Super 77 glue I stropped the head knife up and very carefully cut the pieces out and punched holes and slots. Note: This is not going to be a detailed "How To" guide. You'll have to buy the instructions from Chris for that. Plus, my anglish ain't that good. Haha. Templates on chip board According to the UPS tracker, my side of Hermann Oak should be here tomorrow. So, if it does arrive, my goal for tomorrow is to get the templates transferred to leather and at least get the rough cuts done. Please feel free to jump in here at any time, ask questions, give suggestions or whatever. I want this rig to be so bad ass that Johnny Ringo http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Johnny_Ringo would want it if he were alive. So, that's the direction I'm taking. Black, a 'lil bit of nickel hardware flare, and some natural stitching.

Thank you all for your inputs. I'll do some experiementing with the lighting. If I have to I'll turn the table sideways so I have more room and get the lights further away from the box. Maybe take a trip this weekend and get some of the cards that were mentioned.

+1 on the Bianchi videos. He shows to to do the sew on style. However, he additionally goes into what type and weight of leather to use and how to measure for different calibers. I haven't made any slide or snap on styles, but I wouldn't think it'd be too difficult once you learn how to space and sew them. There are other members that I hope will chime in that have posted the other methods such as the slide and snap on styles.

I guess it could've been. Or I just missed something. I just didn't see anything obvious. I'm thinking I'll use Chicago screws though.

I transfer my stitch line (the one closest to the frame and trigger guard) with an awl. I do this by laying my template over the piece of leather and gently poke through my template where i have my stitch line drawn. From there I use a free hand groover. Just take your time and follow your line slowly.

So, I went to my first Cowboy Fast Draw shoot today. I had a blast! Probably the most fun I've had shooting any gun. Well, anyway, because I haven't cut my own rig yet, I used someone else's. it was made by Tombstone Leather and it was a very nice rig. Well, I got to looking at it and noticed the skirt was attached to the belt in order to keep the holster from coming up with the gun on a draw. But for the life of me I couldn't figure out how it was attached. I saw absolutely no signs of Chicago screws or any other hardware. Anyone have any ideas how this was accomplished?

I'm sorry, but I just don't understand the single snap-loop on the 1911 avenger. Why not just go with a standard belt slot? The belt is still gonna through another loop. In my mind, a snap-loop is used for easy on and off application.

I'd agree with your observation on those two companies. I would imagine that they're much like anything else that's mass produced. It went down an assembly line and most assembly lines require a certain production rate be met. The workers probably don't give two hoots about the product either. One thing I have noticed about companies like that is they're at least innovative when it comes to the hardware they use. I wish I could buy some if their thumb break stiffeners and snap covers.

I think it looks really good. the stitches and the the stitch lines are evenly spaced. the edges look good. the only thing i'm gonna have to comment on is that i think there should be more space between the rear of the holster and the grip of the gun (maybe an extra 1/4").

+1 on flipping the clips if you're going to stick with metal clips. If you stay with metal clips, I'd recommend these..... http://www.tandyleat...ts/1240-24.aspx . They're a 1/4" shorter than those you have pictured.

I know little to nothing on carving, well, I just don't do it enough to critique on anyway. So, on the western rig I'll just comment on the skirt/skirt slot gap. The trick to that is to ensure the skirt fold is as close to the same width as the slot as possible. Getting the skirt through the slot is pretty easy, but I had to watch John Bianchi's video to figure it out. Basically you simply fold the skirt in half, slide a plastic sleeve (bag) on it, spray with silicone, and push it through the slot.

use the darker color for your band. if you go that route and not line it, be sure to dye the inside of the holster to match. http://www.holsters4...oduct/W-JR.html

+1 on TwinOaks comment. But you don't need a mold if you own that gun. Plenty of the makers here on the board use their personal weapons to make their holsters. That is if you're intending to make your own. On the other hand, if you're looking for someone here to make the holster, it could be challenging as that is a unique pistol. Not sure where you're at, but if you're around San Diego I'd be happy to consult with you on the job. Edit: one thought that came to mind, have you considered making a mold of the gun yourself and shipping it to a maker? I've never made a mold, but I've heard people tell me it's pretty simple.

Plenty of good looking rough side out holsters. Very popular for Inside the Waist Band (IWB) holsters. You could make smooth side out cover/reinforcement pice with tooling on it for some contrast. It also might depend on what the rough side looks like. Hermann Oak and similar leathers look best rough side out. Tandy, not so much.

I can see what you're talking about with the sight channel, big gap between the stitch line and slide. It's more noticeable in the last picture showing the back side. What are you using to mold around for a sight channel? I use a 3/16" dowel rod I picked up at a craft store. Most of the weapons I've made holsters for have sights that are gennerally no taller than 3/16", and the 3/16" is slightly wider than most front sights. I can't say anything about the process you're trying cause I've never went that route before (flat back or molding then stitching). However, I think the molding looks pretty good. Maybe just a thinner center line mark? That's just personnal preference though. Also, one thing I've been doing lately after I make a crease line is go over the line and surrounding area with my thumb to help smooth out the area. For instance, the rear line of the ejection port has what appears to be an accidental tooling mark. I do it all the time, the creaser will slip or go over an edge slightly. Just a little thumb pressure will smooth it back out.

from the angle of the photo it looks like open side of the keeper is on the outside vise the inside?

Very good to know. One of my concerns was it de-bonding or rolling up on the edges. With my planning I browsed through a couple websites of some well-known makers and a few of them stated that they suede line their belt and holsters, so I thought about doing that as well. I may just stick to veg-tan lining on the belt as well, as originally planned.

Thanks for the information Mike. With that bit of information I think I'll go with veg tan lining on the holster and line the belt with suede for a little grip around the waist. Anyone have any input on edging and burnishing suede lined belts?

I'm planning out my next rig. This one will be for personal use in Cowboy Fast Draw Association shoots. I'm thinking of going with a suede liner on the belt and holster. I've never used suede before and I was wondering I'd still be able to bevel and burnish the suede lining? If there are better linings to use please let me know that as well.

I see that you mentioned using a different leather next time. If you haven't tried Hermann Oak, Wickett& Craig or RJF, I'd recommend any one of those three. I personnally use Hermann Oak B grade. I like RJF as well. Never tried W&C, but have read many great reviews. As previously mentioned, cheap leather is great for mock-ups, and nothing else. Now that's just my opinion. As far as design wise, I personally would curve in the sweat shield back towards the slide after it passes the rear sight. Not sure if it has been mentioned previously, but I'd invest in a punch for your belt slots. A punch will make those slots nice and clean. I don't consider myself a professional by any means. I've lost money on orders before by going through 2-3 mock-ups because I feel I can do better. That forum member that bought that holster from you is more than likely going to post something about it. If he or she posts something good about it, that's great for you. But if he/she posts something bad about it, not too many people on that forum will buy from you in the future.

exceptional work. i like everything about it. gonna have to by me a vacuum bag.

Barry King "sharp curve" edger.

This seems like the cheapest way to go. However, I'm curios to see the results. Do you have any pics of your holsters?

Yeah, I thought I had it figured out but now it seems each association has different regulations for their holsters and belts. Too many for me to keep up with until I'm at least back home and get get better organized. I'm looking now specifically at the CFDA regs as they have a club close to me that I want to start shooting and competing with. And being a holster maker I'd prefer to make my own rig. You have any pics? Do you have any tips on putting in the deflector in the skirt?