IngleGunLeather

Howdy folks. I just finished up my second cowboy holster today. However, this one's staying with me. This is a holster I built for competing in the Cowboy Fast Draw Association. I got the template from forum member Slick Bald. If you're reading this Slick Bald, just wanted to say the template and instructions are superb. Thanks for a great product.

Day Seven. Okay folks. Here's the finished holster. The last few things that were taken care of today was adding the hammer strap, leg tie-downs, and a couple coats of natural finishing wax. Stay tuned for part 2 where I'll be working on the belt. Thanks for all the motivating comments so far. You guys and gals rock!

Late Day Six. I got started on the loop strap this evening and couldn't stop after that. I decided to go ahead and get both the holster and loop strap wet molded. I'll be able to let in dry over the next 8-10 hours and then got back over the edges with the canvas again. So, still a little bit aways from being completely finished. Such as installing the leg tie downs, hammer strap, oiling, and finish coat. I figure that by Sunday the finish coat can be applied. Oh, if you're wondering why the toe of the flap is bent up like that is it's because I have a deflector shield installed inside the flap. The purpose of that is that in the event of an accidental or early discharge, the wax bullet will deflect off the shield vise smacking you in the leg.

Thanks Dave.

Thanks Josh! I appreciate the advice you gave me on marking borders and stamping. I tried to apply those techniques as best as possible. I used a groover instead of a swivel knife though. I'll have to experiment on some scraps with the swivel knife after I finish this. Again, thanks for the compliments and tips. CT

Early Day Five. I had a few minutes before work this morning so I was able to burnish the seam. It looks a little porous. Noticing this after I burnished with Gum Trag, I applied some beeswax and burnished again. The beeswax helped fill in some of the pores. At least I think it did. But overall, I'm satisfied with the burnish.

Day Four: Haven't been able to do much since I went back to work. Tonight I was able to sew, sand, edge and re-dye the seam. Just waiting on the dye to dry before I burnish. Sewing the seam was kicking my butt. I know I've asked before, but if anyone is using a Cobra Class 4 and routinely sews welts I'd love to chat with ya bout it. I think I did okay, but there has to be an easier way. I marked my line and set my stitch spacing with an overstitch tool. I was using the machine manually without making any tension adjustments and everything was going good until I got to the top of the pocket's seam. The thread must have got hung up inside the leather and started fraying on me. From there I lifted the foot and cut the thread and had to go back over it. Just weird as this was the first time this happened to me and really didn't know how to recover it. I did the best I could. I guess something similar would be a broken stitch and handled it the same way with an overstitch. I just hope the seam doesn't open up down the road.

+1 on the Gum Trag.

Howdy Dave. I love the color and the white stitch really pops. One thing I see is the stitching not connecting at the top of the seam. I would have went up one more stitch length to connect and it will also prevent that point from separating and folding over on itself under the weight of the gun. CT

Anytime Dave. The machines needed for this type of leather work are expensive. I bought mine earlier this year with my tax refund and considered it an investment in myself. I commend all leatherworkers that hand stitch. CT

Thanks Dave. I use a Cobra Class 4 sewing machine and love it. I've had it for a few months now and haven't had any problems with it. Most of the problems I have are my errors in setting up and those are quickly fixed with a phone call to Leather Machine Co. http://www.leatherma...alog.php?item=1 . Here's my steps in burnishing: 1. sand edges even 2. edge (i used a no.2 edger for this holster) 3. re-dye edges and let dry (this step can be deleted if you complete steps 1 and 2 before overall dyeing) 4. moisten with water and shape with the Tandy wood slicker 5. apply Gum Trag and burnish with canvas

Very nice work.

Day Three cont..... After dyeing this morning I let it dry for a few hours. Finally got back to it tonight. Tonight I was able to cut, glue and skive my welt and get that attached. I also was able to knock out the burnish on the edges. Well, I burnished everything except for the seam. That'll have to wait until it's stitched, sanded and edged. Welt tapered and glued A finished edge on the flap

Much appreciated Matt. This is only the second attempt at stamping. The first was my craft-aid I made yesterday. I really like it. I'm already shopping for a better mallet than the yellow Tandy one I have. Thinking Barry King but not sure what weight I need.

Thanks Haystacker!

Day Three. I got off to early start today as I have to go back to work tomorrow and wanted to get as much completed as possible. I was initially thinking I wanted to use natural stitching, but made an impulsive decision to go with black. I guess I didn't feel like messing around with that process. Much easier to use same color thread. Here's today's progression pics. Oh, this thread has had over 140 views, but only a few comments. Please feel free to comment. Thanks for looking. Rough cut liner glued on Rough cut liner stitched in Liner trimmed Sanded, edged, and dyed

I think it looks great. Your stamping is inspirational. The basketweave really has some great depth giving it a great 3D effect. I just started basic stamping, so I know who I'm gonna be asking questions now.

Day two cont........ Leather came in a few hours ago. Thank you brown truck driver. LOL. Good thing I got today and tomorrow off for Veteran's day. Well, enough blabbing. I cut, stamped, punched, and marked my stitch line today. Not necesarily in that order. I'm glad I made my craft-aid earlier this morning as it came in handy when it came time to adjust the wing dividers. I believe I'm done for the night and let the leather dry out. Tomorrow's goal is to stitch in my liner, sand edges and dye.

A picture of the pistol would be great in order to make recommendations. A quick google search resulted in this IWB Clip on. This seems pretty straight forward. All you need above the belt line is the grip itself.

Thanks Dave. Saw your rig as well. Looking good man.

Day Two. Still waiting on the brown truck to deliver my side 'o beef. So, I decided to work on my design and do some stamping with some scrap. I think Tandy calls these Craftaids? As mentioned before, I want a bad ass rig. When I first started getting into gun leather earlier in the year I bought the "Hollywood West" Johnny Ringo pattern by Will Ghormley http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/6015-17.aspx. Heck, I didn't even have a six-shooter at the time, I just thought it was bad ass. Well, after learning what I have up to this point, I'm going to make a simlar rig, but this one will be fully lined and purpose built for Fast Draw. However, I do intend to carry over some of the design elements from the Ghormley pattern to mine. For one, I'll be using the stamping pattern on the holster. So, here's the Craftaid I made this morning. Stich lines marked and groove lines marked Corners stamped with Craftool D617 Grooves cut Corner stamps placed with Craftool D439 All stamps in place Ringo Rig from Ghormley's site http://www.willghormley-maker.com/MakingRingoRig.html

Dave. Looks good and very very functional. The ONLY thing I'm seeing is that it looks like the slot on the belt (where the holster flap goes through) appears to be square. Should be round to prevent tear in those areas where it supports the weight of the gun.

Sounds like a good enough reason to get a new gun Mike.Haha. I just picked picked up a Ruger New Model Vaquero, .45C, 4-5/8". Sweet 'lil gun.

I have nothing to add here, just wanted to say Happy Belated Birthday Marine. Semper Fi.