IngleGunLeather

I use the Tandy pro water stain myself and it is a little tricky applying. What color did you use? I usually spray a couple base coats before applying with their orange sponge. This helps me keep a consistent color. Also, don't over dye it either. If you are able to dye after you've applied gum trag, I'm very surprised the dye is penetrating. Typically gum should be applied after you've finished dyeing. The edges will be darker, I'm now assuming that you used some other color besides black to be able to see this. Not a big deal and I wouldn't try thinning to try to match.

Ebay Ebay2

I have Barry King edgers. I use the Bissonnette style and have no complaints. I use them for the same things you're looking at using them for, belts and holsters. I'd have to say I use a #1 and #2 the most for doubled up 6/7 oz leather. At 55 bucks a pop, it can get expensive. Just depends on how much you're willing to spend. I have aquired all available sizes of the Bissonnette, plus I have a #2 Sharp Edge Curver, great for the belt slots and any other sharp corners. I like like the Bissonnette besause it will cut in either a push or pull method. Sometimes an area just doesn't like getting edged one way, probably has to do with grain or something.

Very cool. I like that. Thanks for sharing. The previous 18 lurkers should have said something.

Chief makes an excellent recommendation on dampening the leather. I do something similar. However, I spray the flesh side with water instead of the grain side. Makes for a very nice clean cut, especially on the Hermann Oak. Another alternative for sharp curves is to punch them first with a hole punch.

Thanks, I'll try setting up a diagonal pattern. That makes sense Bruce. I'll experiment more with different borders. Thanks.

So, I was practicing my basket stamping in order to start basket stamping some 1.5 in belts. I really didn't like the way it turned out. I set my stitch line at 3/16in, which is too narrow, gonna have to mark at 1/4" so the foot will have enough surface material. Well, after the stitch line and border line is set, that really didn't give me a lot of room for stamping. I used a Craftool X511 for this piece and it only gave me two rows after I did the border stamp. Oh, and does anyone not take their stamping all the way to the tip? Does anyone end their stamping before they get to the holes? Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.

I've been thinking about your sizing question since I made that template last night. I guess it kind of depends on where the shooter wanted the buckles? I have absolutely no idea how this type of rig is worn. Around the waist? around the gut?Just under the chest? Making the template though was pretty easy after I saw a decent picture on the net. If you already have billet and chape templates it's even easier.

Alright, here's what I've come up with based off of your description. The front belt is 2.5 in. tapering down to 1.5 in. on the billet ends. The back belt is 5.0 in. tapering down to 1.5 in. chape ends. Each template is marked with a center line. These would have to be stretched in length to fit the end user. And the back belt's center could be reshaped after it's been stretched to fit user. The chape ends on my template are designed for a center bar buckle. if you're wanting to use roller buckles they would need to be altered in order to put a belt keeper on. Let me know if I'm in the ball park here. Are you making this for personal use or making for someone? CT

Anytime D.

I have a 2-1/2" template that tapers to 1-1/2" billet and chape ends. I could modify the template to your specs. A link to one these websites could also get me on the right track for making a template. If u want give me a call at (760) 385-3879. I'm off work this whole week and this sounds like a cool project for me. Just point me in the right direction.

Excellent work Chief. I'llhave to look you up one day when I get back to Georgia and you can show me around these craft fairs. Thanks for showing.

I like it. I like the idea of a business card holder too. Bill's on the money here. I'd mark my stitch line after the edges are trimmed and sanded flush with each other. I'd mark the stitch line at about 3/16 inch. Then I'd stitch. After I stitched it up I'd take the sharp edges off with an edger (my personal reccommendation is the bissonette) as Bill stated. I tried a sanding drum for my dremel tool when I first started. Many will recommend this but I do not. It can easily burnish the leather if the rpm's get high enough. It can also leave your edge looking bumpy if you "dig" in a spot for too long. I often use something like this 3M Sand Blaster. It's cheap and it's easy to use. Thanks for sharing!

Very classy. Bluesman1951 has it right about the oval punch. I just picked up one myself to use in the future. My recommendation for your next one is to round your corners off more to one of these shapes . Where'd you get your buckle and keeper at? Oh, and I'm glad my cutting board isn't the only one that has dye stains on. A sign of a lot of work there. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.

Chat is good. Almost always get answers right away.

+1 on Bob's tutorial.Very minimal items required. He mentions a machine, but I use the same products and just do it by hand.

If you get a chance, please see if you can view the photobucket link in my signature. I guess you have to be logged into facebook to view those other links.I logged out of my FB and tried those links and got the same error message. Thanks for pointing that out.

I have the Stohlman Damascus knives. I haven't tried any other brand of knives, so I couldn't tell you whether one is better than the other. I will just say I'm happy with mine.

Very nice design. And you got that from a Ghormley book? Is it a pattern book? Never messed around with vinegroon, but it looks good. Thanks for sharing.

I'd be more than happy to help but I'm not familiar with what you're looking for. Do you have a picture of one?

Looks good. The edges do look really good. I was wondering though, could you have sewn the accent pieces onto the outer layer before you put your liner in? If you could, it would reduce the amount of stitching showing on the liner.

Wow. I've never really looked at horse hides much. I do like that and the way the grain makes a contrsting coloris amazing. Very nice craftsmanship.

Thank you Mike. I used Fiebing's Carnuba Cream. I think I'm going with Fiebing's Spray Leather Sheen on the next one as rubbing in the carnuba tends to pull too much dye up. Not an issue with black on black items, but it would be terrible if I use a natural or light colored thread.