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IngleGunLeather

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Everything posted by IngleGunLeather

  1. Thanks for the suggestions folks. I found some neoprene sheets online and was surprised that it's pretty inexpensive. Looks like I'll be ordering a sheet of 1/4" thick neoprene.
  2. Got everything squared away now. Got the belt tension backed off a bit and got the thread tension dialed in. Thanks for the suggestions.
  3. Very nice. I like everything about it. Very clean work. The natural color is very classy. Where can I get a template for a swing arm bag?
  4. I haven't added any liners to my semi-auto holsters, only to my western rigs. When making the western rigs I stitch the liner around the top of the pocket and the toe. Why would you not do this on a lined semi-auto holster with a liner? Or am I just misenterpreting the "treat as one layer" suggestion?
  5. Was able to adjust the tension on the motor's belt last night just enough that the bearings are no longer clicking. I didn't get a chance to run any material through. I'll get around to that tonight as I still need to tweak my thread tension.
  6. Bump. I'd like to know as well.
  7. After talking to Steve today, he recommended the same thing. I just got in a pulled the belt off the motor pulley. Noise went away. I'm thinking there might be too much tension and it's pulling the motor shaft causing too much friction. Gonna get a wrench in a bit and try a small adjustment.
  8. Just one for that style clip. Punched a 7/8" slot at the top and a small hole at the bottom. Once the stitching was done I slid in the clip with the female end of a double cap rivet. Lined the holes up and tapped in the male end of the rivet to secure. Tandy Holster Cip
  9. I just recently started hearing a clicking noise coming from the motor on my Cobra Class 4. It sounds like a bearing popping. Should I be greasing the bearings or is there an adjustment I need to make? Don't see anything in the manual covering this.
  10. I hate throwing away leather. I'm steaming right now. For some reason or another I can't get my machine dialed in. Worked great when I was testing on scrap. Went to hell when I started stitching my belt. Arrrgh!

    1. immiketoo

      immiketoo

      Dude. I can't even imagine! Cool of and start fresh. Call the manufacturer. Or send the whole thing to me for christmas. You don't even have to wrap it.

    2. Sylvia

      Sylvia

      I wouldn't throw it away. I would keep it for an example of when things go bad.

    3. Sylvia

      Sylvia

      or make a dog collar out of it.

  11. Hey Jake. The clip is solid. It has great retention around the belt. Although, this was around a standard single layer belt. I haven't tried the clip around one of my double layer belts yet. I didn't go over board with molding the holster so the gun comes out very nice. It's been a while since the customer has had it and I was told last week that he loves it. The stain was straight out of the bottle. I sprayed an initial two coats with an airbrush and then applied another couple coats with a sponge. This has helped me get an even color with the browns.
  12. As far as when whenever you want. I put my stamp on everything since I got it. Where is personal or customer preference. I typically don't mark a visible surface. My belts and holsters are marked on the inside. But, I see a lot of stamps on the outer surface.
  13. Thanks. That's pretty much all I want to do I guess. Just do a couple just so I know how to do them in the event someone wants one.
  14. Hello. I got into leatherwork a couple years ago when I was heavily modifying my old Night Train. I wanted to do it all, fork rolls, bags, and of course seats. I even went and got a DVD from Hammer in Hand Cycles. Well, kinda of gave up on this dream after getting a new bike and didn't need those things. Then I moved on to gun leather. I think I have the some of the basics down now and want to start on bike gear again. So, what would be a good place to start with seats? Should I order a seat kit with foam already cut and shaped? Is there a common seat pan that is widely used? I don't have a project bike to put a seat on. Other than me really wanting to be able to make seats, I have no real reason to make one. For all I know, it would probably sit on my shelf after completed. So, I guess I'd like to start with a common seat pan and put a basic design or no design at all just to be able to add this to my list of offerings.
  15. Very nice Benlilly! I want to start making seats so bad, but my artistic skills are horrible.
  16. That seat is awesome! That makes we wanna step away from the net, and start practicing my carving. Seriously, that is very motivating. Great job.
  17. Concur. Play with your lighting. Shoot in a light tent if you have one. But if I was shopping at your site I'd want to see the stamping on the product material. I'm kind of working on the same thing for belt options right now. I'm just stamping 6" pieces in various colors. But there in leather. I don't want to waste leather by making multiple full size belts. And if your leather is cased and stamped properly the impressions should look good.
  18. Thanks Ammo. I need to find me a project now to apply those steps. Again, great work.
  19. That finish is bad ass. Can you summarize what you did?
  20. Mop n Glo is for floors. Period. Try this, it's Fiebing's Institutional series.
  21. Try the pro waterstains. Doesn't give me headaches like some of the other dyes do.
  22. I recently started using Bob Parks' method, so I couldn't tell you how long a burnished edge should last. I assume one of the main factors would be what type of use the edge is exposed to. I see you mentioned water and canvas. Try adding the glycerine soap to the mix. If you don't have any and don't want to wait on an order, go to the grocery store and pick up a bar of Neutrogena Glycerine Bar Soap. I've got the Fiebing's Glycerine on order, but went to this in the mean time while I'm trying to get away from Gum Trag. Here's Bob Parks' tutorial.
  23. I think it's bad ass. Nice work on transferring the tattoo onto the leather. Not sure if you're looking for critiques or not, but your stitch line looks way off around the frame.
  24. 11 bucks a month? That's really not a great deal for the hobbyist trying to sell a few items here and there. Why the monthly fee vise a posting fee?
  25. Just wondering the distances you mark on your stamped or tooled belts when sewing on Cobra Class 4. I normally set my stitch line at 3/16" and use the left foot on non stamped or tooled belts. However, the 3/16" stitch line set up didn't work when I tried on some scrap that I had stamped. I changed to the right foot to prevent the foot from going over my stamp impressions, but then didn't have enough room towards the edge for the foot. So, can you tell me how you set up for this? -Do you use a left, right, or double foot? -What's your stitch line measurement from the edge? -Whats your border measurement from the edge? Stitch line marked at 3/16" , border at 5/16" and right foot
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