NoName

>>>>>>Note to self... Dont hit "Tab" while posting. It causes multiple postings.>>>>>>>

>>>>>>Note to self... Dont hit "Tab" while posting. It causes multiple postings.>>>>>>>

>>>>>>Note to self... Dont hit "Tab" while posting. It causes multiple postings.>>>>>>>

I collected a lot of Tandy (Cratftool) stuff over the years, but have never seen a complete catalog of either Cratfools or craftaids. I have a fair collection of old Tandy catalogs dating back to the 1960's. At least one as old as the 1950's. I might be able to answer questions about old tools or craftaids. I doubt that I should post this stuff for fear of copy right infringment though. I might part with the collection for the right price though PM me with any questions. Sorry about the multiple posts! OOPS

Too much of my profit was going to the manufacturers of the metal clips on the previous model. I had to redesign it some to use different clips. These clips cost less than a dollar each as opposed to five dollars each for the other ones. The back is lined as well.

Mlapaglia is right. Rubber cement your project down to Hot Press (Crescent) Illustration board prior to casing and tooling. The leather will emboss into the hot press board slightly and the tooling will appear deeper. Wait until completely dry to peel up so that your leather does not stretch out of shape. You will have rubber cement residue on the flesh side.

might be easier just to teach him to do leatherwork so he could make his own

Check out the thread " Can You Hand-Stitch Through Two 8-9Oz Pieces?" in the category "sewing leather". You should not have to use enough force to bend or break a blade. When properly sharpened and polished it should glide right through with very little effort.

Ken Nelson is right. the awl blade must be sharp and properly polished...The edges should be knife sharp and the whole thing should be mirror polished. Strop it before and after each project you use it on to maintain it.

Cased means damp clear through but not soggy. Try this object lesson to learn what "cased" should look like... Hold a scrap of 8-9 oz veg tanned leather under water for about 5 seconds. Pull it out and wipe off the excess moisture. Cut the piece in half and observe the edge that you cut. You will see that the the core is still bone dry and the top and bottom surfaces are wet looking. Put this scrap in a plastic bag and seal it up for 20 - 30 minutes. The excess moisture in the top and bottom surfaces of the leather will gradually soak in until the piece is evenly damp throughout. This is cased. When a piece of leather is cased properly the surface may not look wet any more but it will still feel cool and damp to the back of your hand. A piece of 8-9 oz leather will hold this moisture content for 1 to 4 hours depending on the humidity of the climate you live in. As the leather dries while you are working it you can add moisture in small amounts with a spray bottle (set to fine mist) or a damp sponge. When you do this, you need to let the leather sit until it begins to return to its natural or "dry" color in places before you continue tooling it. I like to cover the leather with plastic or put it in a plastic bag while it is casing to ensure even penetration of the moisture.

Definitely do not throw away any of Stohlman's books. There is a wealth of information to be had from them. Some of the stuff has become outdated, and you may find easier of better ways of doing things, but don't bash the man who was so instrumental in spreading the craft and so generous with his knowledge.

The two tone looks great!

Get every Al Stohlman book you can get your hands on. There is such a wealth of information to be had. One of the best skills to master in my opinion is hand stitching. That would be the very next book on my list.

Welcome and enjoy!

In short, I would not recommend it. If you want to try, the following may guide your decisions. #1 Can you tell if it is vegetable tanned leather? If it is, continue... #2 Will it accept moisture? If so, case it well and continue... #3 What do you intend to refinish it with if water ruins the factory finish? #4 Will stamping stretch or distort it?

I have never tried using it as a "resist", but it is a great final finish over solvent based dyes. Have good cross ventilation when using it. Anything that smells that good has got to be really bad for you!! Lol

I agree with Winterbear. It is all lizzard with three exceptions. The first picture of brown leather is elephant. I had a pair of boots made out of elephant once. It is very durable leather. The black and white striped stuff looks like stingray. It is hard to be certain without handling it. I wish I knew snakes better so I could tell you what kind of snake that is from. I am attaching pics of stingray (black), frog (brown) and shark (brown). Hope this helps

I think I could stand the backgrounding and beveling, but I think I would have to be "medicated" to do the dye work. It looks awesome!

I am required to carry on my "strong side" between 2:00 and 4:00 and being able to efficiently reholster is a consideration. The Crossbreed style holster is absolutely the most comfortable holster I have ever worn. I complimented your pattern because it looks like a fairly safe design due to the sweep upwards from the trigger guard towards the rear sight. It looks like it reduces the chances for the following to happen...http://www.itstactical.com/warcom/firearms/safety-warning-worn-leather-holsters-can-cause-accidental-discharges/

I like the pattern. I used to carry my Kahr PM9 in one very similar, that is, until I started playing with Kydex. The Kydex holster, being rigid, retains its shape. It is easier to reholster.

+1 for Glockanator's answer.

Most of my tooling involves small, tight curves. for straight lines or more broad flowing patterns I will switch to a straight blade. My go-to knife is the first one. A friend of mine in Arizona and I made it based on what I thought a swivel knife should feel like in the hand. It was the prototype. We were going to make more but it never happened. I am still jealous of King'sX collection. I hope he takes the time to identify all of them for us. There are a couple of them that I am not familiar with yet.