J Hayes

So will this take the place of oiling after wet molding? Now I wet mold let dry a day or so, neetsfoot oil inside and out let that dry a day or so and dip in 50-50 mop n glo mixture. Jeremy

How do you make up you pitch/wax mixture? I have seen pitch for use in hooves as an antiseptic, is that sutiable? Do you use left or right twist on the thread? I imagine the twist would be more important for machine use and really wouldn't matter much for hand sewing, opinions? Thanks Jeremy

Thanks for the thread tip, I appreciate it. I'm guessing the inconsistency in horse is why everybody charges a bit more for them? Seem to waste a lot of material. I just love the look of it when its just oiled and sealed. Reject bin may have been a bit harsh. With the added stitch it tightened up, I'll oil it tonight and see what happens. Thanks Jeremy

That is a beautiful piece of work and leather! Where did you come by it? Jeremy

Sixer, I checked out your Facebook page, awesome work! I realy like the inlay stuff and the colored thread. What are you using for thread? Jeremy

I ended up diping it again and adding another stitch line to tighten it up. Still dried a bit softer. It was the same hide. I noticed a difference in the stiffness from spot to spot on the horeshide. In fact i cut another pattern lastnight, half is real firm other half is not. I got this horeshide from Springfield, where do you get yours? This one may end up in the reject bin. Thanks Jeremy

That's the way I was leaning, thanks. Jeremy

Nice job! I would think you should dye before oiling, but I'm a novice so.. Jeremy

I just finished another horeshide IWB but it didn't dry real stiff like the last one. Had it in the water for 1 minute at 120 degrees with a drop of dishsoap. It wasn't quite as tight as the fisrt one. Any ideas? The first one I put in the oven for an hour at 125°. Could that be the difference? This one I put in my dehydrator at 125 for an hour as well. Thanks for the help Jeremy

I have some Kydex and want to make a crossbreed holster for my Glock 23. Will I still have to case the leather backer or can I just oil and seal it? I have 9/10 oz shoulder or 6/7 oz hores, suggestions? Thanks Jeremy

Very nice, I like the shape of the reinforcement band. Did you hand stitch it? Jeremy

Where do you get the waxed linen? I've seen it a few places but no size is given. I end my stitching by going over 3 stitches and cutting flush on the backside. Jeremy

The holsters you did above, 7 cord at 6 stitches per inch? Jeremy

I bet the paper bag has more absorbency, thanks for the tip, I will try it! I like your outlook on the thread too. Everything else is natural why not use natural thread too. Is there a size to the linen thread you use? Jeremy

What is it about the linen that you like? About the nyltex you dislike? What do you do to clean up the wax after stitching? I'm new to this so the help is much appreciated. Jeremy

All this hand stitching looks amazing! What thread is everyone using? Waxed or unwaxed? I've been using white waxed nyltex and it comes out looking dirty, any tricks to clean it up? Jeremy 012-03-19_11.26.50.jpg]

Katass, Nice looking work! I really like the inlay one. Is using wax necessary? I have a new Bianchi that has twisted thread and there appears to be no wax at all. Jeremy

I'm new to this and have used Nyltex white, the wax on it turns real dark and dirty. I like the contrast of the white on dark. What do others use for hand stitching their holsters? Thanks Jeremy

Sandwich the t nut between the layers, the the belt loop can easily be replaced on IWB holsters. I use 8/32 stainless t nut and screw, the screw head must be turned down a bit to allow clearance for the snap. Picture is of a Bianchi 120, that's how I determined what size t nut and screw to use. The strap I am unsure of the length, I just made a paper pattern from the Bianchi one. I will measure it layer for you. Lift the spot snaps, or Pull the dot snaps. Jeremy

I have made a holster from one of Springfield's hores butts. I am curious if anyone eles has used their butts. It seems maybe a bit thin and I'm not sure what the weight is but it measures 0.110-0.100" . Is this heavy enough or is there another supplier I should look at for horse hide? Or just forget the suff all together? Thanks Jeremy

I just ordered stainless t nuts from steelmarinefasteners.com $36.30 box of 100. The stainless is more money but I think it is worth it, I hate corrosion. They are 8/32 x 1/4 sku NTEENUT8-32, shipped fast. You may have to shorten them for thinner leather but on 9-10 oz they protrude just slightly. I also ordered the screws from them, $4.44 box of 100. I got the size and material off a Bianchi holster, they use stainless. I did find i needed to make the head smaller to fit the snap socket well. Easy to do, put the screw in a drill and run it against my belt grinder. I like stainless. Jeremy

Thanks for the warning on marine store stuff. I've actually been in contact with the manufacturer of both, YKK and Dot. I've priced the mil spec snaps from both. Bianchi use Lift the Spot and on the one holster I've made so far I used Pull the Dot from Springfield Leather. I plan on buying 100 and was curious if one had a better reputation than the other. Jeremy

Do you use the "hard action cap socket " or the standard one? Do you use an 8/32 screw and t nut with yours? Thanks Jeremy

Which is better, Lift the Spot snaps or Pull the Dot snaps? Price is pretty close on both, just want opinions. Thanks Jeremy

So I dipped my holster in the 50/50 mop and glow, it looks pretty nice. A nice slight sheen. Does anybody do any more than that, like a neutral shoe polish or is it now done? I did apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil and allowed it to dry overnight before the mop and glow. Thanks Jeremy