J Hayes

I'll be of no help identifying it, but is sure looks nice, good find. Jeremy

They skip the 153w101. It is a great resource though, amazing how many people print a manual from there and then try to sell it though. Jeremy

That's a pretty cool looking spool, I bet its old, says "polished" under finish, mine say "soft". When I ordered from Landwerlen leather he said they didn't do the different finish anymore. I really like what I have though. Jeremy

Whats the improved version go for? What does it take to get to the US? Is the handwheel wide enough to machine a groove in to accept a V belt? Jeremy

Hello. Wondering if anybody has a parts manual for a Singer 153w101 that they are willong to share. I have a users manual but would like a parts list / manual. Also are parts still available for this? Thank Jeremy

I got about $175 into it. Jeremy

Wiz I was trying to politely say has anybody told the seller its a fake and we know it, or contacted ebay about a counterfit. Juki may even be interested in seeing it as some companies defend their name viciously. It a good thing I work with my hands and not my words. I wasn't questioning our experts, and the thing looks fishy to my novice eye as well, I think somebody pointed out the "sticker" model plate and that the real ones are rivited. Sorry for my confusion Jeremy

I see that questionable Juki is still on ebay, anybody ever ask the seller about its authenticity? Jeremy

This may be a dumb thought but I'll put it out there anyway. Is it possible to convert a non reverse machine to have reverse? Like possibly starting with a Singer 153w type and getting reverse parts from one of the clones? Like I said its probably a stupid idea, just thought I'd ask. Jeremy

Did you decide on a machine? Jeremy Did you decide on a machine? Jeremy

Try to fade with an airbrush, you might like the look and sounds like you have nothing to lose. Jeremy

Here's a few pictures,. Jeremy

Selling my Singer 110W125, I know very little about it. It does work and will be complete with a clutch motor that has a 1 3/4" pullup to slow it some, have the bigger pulley if needed. I rebuilt the bushing behind the handwheel. Seems to stitch nicely, has the 12 spi gear in it, haven't checked yhr other two. Make an offer. Its in Waterloo WI Jeremy

Forgot to add, good point on the large needle decreasing the hole to hole distance, thank you! Jeremy

Art I have 12 spi gear and have run some 92 with it. It was a cheap machine to at least get my feet wet anyway. I kinda enjoy hand stitching more anyway, at least on holsters. Jeremy Pic is of 2 layers of veg horse with 92 thread and I think I had the 16 needle in it.

I have a Singer 110w124 which takes a 16x4 needle, now this machine came with a few in size 14, and one in 16&18 . Obviously I will need more and larger needles. I've been told the system 34 will work but I may need to check the timing? I have found a few 16x4 online but am unsure if the point matters or not. Id like to sew with 92 or 138 lighter wieght bag type stuff, leather mainly. What are the differences between the 16×4 and the 34 system? Thank you Jeremy

Nice start. The top one looks the the gun will sit to deep in the pants to be able to get a good firing grip on it, almost looks as if the belt would run across the grip in fact. I agree with renegadelizard on the stitch lines and length. Good start and keep at it! Jeremy

FWIW I was told to dip them in the 50/50 M&G, seems to work for me. Now I don't have a ton of stuff out there being worn daily. My personal holster is worn daily for 10 months or so now and it seems good to me, it is showing wear but I'd expect it to. Seems to leave a decent sheen, not shiny but just a nice sheen, also its an IWB of horsehide with a light coat of neatsfoot oil then 24 hour dry then a dunk in M&G . Jeremy

One more thing, I use stainless steel, the undercut machine screws from McMaster Carr and the t nuts from steel marine fastener. Jeremy

Let me know if these will do, I can do more pictures. Jeremy

With the 8-32 screws the head needs to be undercut or it will impede the function of the snap. I copied everything about the loops from a Bianchi holster my buddy has. Why reinvent the wheel, right? I forget how thick the leather is, mostly I use horsehide, that's 5-7 oz I believe, and I ordered 4-5 oz cowhide strip for those loops. Jeremy

Snaps and t nuts would be my preference. The loops can be changed easily for wider belts and different colors. T nuts would enable the user to adjust the cant to their liking. I like Lift The Spot snaps from YKK, got them direct for about $65 per 100 for all 4 parts. My opinion on parts is if you care enough to make something and put your name on it use quality components, the snaps aren't really that much more. My loops are 5 7/8" long, the holes approximately 4 1/2" oc apart. The back or fixed hole is 1/2" in from end and the front is 7/8" from end. These work good on 1 1/2" belt. Pictures of my setup in the screw line 24 snaps thread. Jeremy Jeremy

Off topic but I made a belt grinder like that from a DC motor and variable speed control, an excellent edge sanding machine, I slow it way down and no longer accidentally burnmy edges. A leather belt for it would be awesome! Jeremy

As I'm looking at the Osbourne knives, 70 & 71, I see them referred to as both round knives and head knives, which are they? Also I see a new one costs about $60 while a vintage one is $130 and some really really poor looking rusted pitted ones on ebay going for more than a new one as well. Whats the deal? Is the steel better in the old ones or is it just "antique" nature if them? Jeremy

I use this utility knife with a hook blade. I cut with my knife under the leather and seem to do pretty well with it. I've cut 12-15 holsters with this knife and haven't sharpened it. This is a roofing one that I had on hand, curves aren't to bad unless they're real tight. For straight cuts I use my wife's rotary cutter and quilt mat and straight edge, shhh.