J Hayes

A pony will make this infinitely easier, build one now, the time you save sewing with one will more than make up for the time spent building it. It doesn't need to be fancy either, 2x4s and such. I have gotten in the the habit of pulling the first thread back at the same time I'm pushing the second needle through, ya kinda get a rhythm going.

You are welcome

Can you post a picture of how its threaded? Seems odd that the thread wants to jump out of the tension discs

I used nyltex and it was ok, then I bought a spool of Barbour's 7 cord and it is much better. I wax it myself with "sticky" wax, beeswax with rosin mixed in. The Barbour's is 781 yards and cost me $65 shipped from Landwerlen Leather, 317-636-8300. The wax I got from Bingham Projects Inc, 801-399-3470, $2.90 for a 1 oz cake, 3 shipped cost $10.40, they call it "string maker's bow string wax". It takes more time to wax your own but I think its worth it. I use Osborne harness needles 0 size, 517-0, 18 ga 25 in a pack was $5.75 also from Landwerlen. If you get the white Barbour you can dye it with the leather dye, I bought both black and white. I have also used some Maine thread waxed cord in the .035" size, needed hot pink, worked well but if I get more from them I'll go up one size so its closer to the Barbour 7 cord. I also tried some linen from somebody else but it doesn't even come close to the Barbour's linen. That's what I know. Jeremy

Pull the first thread back as you push the second needle through.

http://shop.raphaelsewing.com/ In Canada, I bet he can help.

I have a Singer 153w101 cylinder arm that is awesome, only lacks reverse, but that's easy to get around. Made a flat table attachment for it, so sewing large flat panels is easy, remove it in 1 minute and I'm sewing gussets in. Standard 111 feet and can sew 3/8". Typically I sew 2 layers of 5/6 oz with 138 bonded nylon and it rocks. I put a servo motor on it and I'm into it for about $800 total. I think Bob and Ronnie both have a clone of this with reverse, not sure if Steve does. Bob's 227R is $1595 plus shipping

http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html Scroll down to this model

Magazine release is larger on the gen 4 as well, the width is about double with the extra bit towards the trigger.

Great to hear. I am curious what the problem ended up being though, just in case I or someone else runs into the same thing

Great info Gregg, thanks!

Were you able to get it stitching yet?

Just offer a cash and carry discount, any other payment takes time or has fees. You can take the cash straight to the grocery store no added time to go to the bank. I've had checks in my pocket for a month because I couldn't get to the bank.

I like it. Well done!

The -5 is newer. Somewhere between -1and now -6 I think they changed where the reverse lever and the stitch length adjuster are located, also I believe around -5 production moved from Japan to China. I've seen -5 with made in China on the plate and others with made in Japan in pictures of units for sale. but I'm no expert and may be remembering incorrectly. The new ones are China though.

Might want to try to post this in leather sewing machines .

Hehehe, I did that, once! Bet I'm not alone

Bruce, Thank you! Mine is 3/4" and 3 1/2", I wonder why. Jeremy

I'm looking for some specs on the needle bar. Height off the standard plate at its lowest point and highest point which will give me the stroke distance of the needle bar. I assume its set up for the 794 needle. Thanks Jeremy

Anybody have a Ferdco Pro 2000 manual, not a Juki one but a later version built on a clone. Did Ferdco do their own manual? My friend has a Juki Pro 2000 he got new from Ferdco that came with a Juki manual, I'm just curious if when Ferdco started with the Taiwan castings if they produced their own manual. Thanks Jeremy

Here's some pictures. You are welcome hope it helps.

I think its a table mounted winder. The wheel gets tipped or pushed forward making contact with the drive belt causing it to turn. It needs to be screwed to the table close enough to the belt to make contact when pushed forward and be clear of the belt when disengaged. As the bobbin fills a tab on the winder contacts the tread automatically disengaging it. I'll get you a few pictures of one I have. Jeremy

https://www.osborneleathertools.com/product_details.php?pid=268

Glad to hear you got her running good! How long have you had it? How do you like it?

Hook on the bobbin shuttle (I think thats what it's called) the hook catches the loop formed by the top thread and pulls it around the bobbin thread forming the stitch. If you can, take the cover off the bobbin area and watch as the stitches are formed making sure the hook catches the loop formed by the top thread, I'm not familiar with the 441 and clones.....yet....