J Hayes

My flatbed is a homebrew one. I think Eric meant that in the factory they just use a different machine altogether, if I had the space and money I'd have more macines than the 3 I have, each set up for different thread and so on. Feed off the arm would be handy or a patcher that will sew 138 top and bottom. BTW I use 138 in my 153w101 sews real nice with that. My dog works differently than yours, why they made some of the 153s with "four motion underfeed" I don't know. Jeremy

Took me about a half hour to make a flat top for my 153w101, so basically 2 machines in one now. I'm not sure but the one Bob sells for his clone of the 153 may work. Jeremy

I believe the p/n is 91099A260 for the 8/32 x 3/8 phillips flat undercut machine screw

Here ya go. The hole in the strap fits over the barrel of the T nut. Jeremy

Lift The Spot, ordered directly from YKK to get the black ones. I'll try to get some pictures for you. Nice holster by the way. Jeremy

Stainless steel t nuts and and screws. I believe the stainless is a bit stronger than the standard hardware store stuff. Use 8/32, and get an undercut head, McMaster Carr sells them. The undercut head is the key, it allows the screw to get deep enough in the snap post to not interfere with the socket, look at a Bianchi holster sometime. Also the 8/32 will obviously be stronger than the 6/32. I use a 3/8" length screw and really tighen it tight tight. Just my .02 Oh and I also clip my t nuts just as Billsotx posted, shortens the bur and sharpens it to more easily penetrate the leather.

http://www.shop.raphaelsewing.com/ I believe they are in Montreal

Stainless steel possibly? Dot fasteners has stainless and solid brass as well as black over brass and nickel over brass. $50 minimum order though but you can get different length posts. The DOT snaps seem heavier thanthe ones I've gotten elsewhere and set much nicer.

Don't forget to look at Cowboy from Toledo Industrial sewing.

You should be able to file a small flat on the standard socket die to make clearance for the interruption in the socket. You can also use an 8/32 T nut and 8/32 phillips flat undercut machine screw for the post side. I get the screws in 3/8 length from McMaster Carr, I use stainless steel for both parts. The undercut allows enough room for the snap to close properly, that is yhe key

For owb a flat back with all the molding on the front will not colaspe very much when on the body and gun is drawn, they stay open nicely. They also don't get Really tight on the gun when you wear them. FBP take a bit more time to make but they are nice. I do my IWB stuff regular pancake or wrap around with a reinforced throat, made for comfortable all dau wear not tactical drills or duty.

I had a problem like that too with groon, neatsfoot oil didn't even seem to want to soak in. I used mop n glo with no issues on dyed rigs, but get thr cracking on the grooned stuff. So on thr groon I use a 50/50 mixture of beeswax and neatsfoot oil by weight melted together slowly and allowed to cool. Once cooled it can be applied with your fingers and rubbed in, I'll hit it with the heat gun lighty so it soaks in, then if I want to shine it up I'll use Kiwi neutral shoe polish on it. No cracking then on my grooned stuff. Hope this helps. I do wonder if one could use just the Kiwi though. Nice rig btw

Have you checked the hook timing and distance the tip of the hook is from the scarf? My Singer acted in much the same way and it was the timing and clearance that were just a bit off causing the piont of the hook to pierce the top thread and it looked just like your pictures. Just a thought, I am no expert though. Parts.singerco.com hasfree manuals for your machine if you don't already have one. It goes over timing the hook.

Eric That's awesome! I love the staple in the V belt from the motor to the reducer, use what ya got handy!

I think the self oilers need to be run fast for the self oiling to work properly. I also think the Consew uses the same feet as the Singer 111's and many other machines. The feet for that Consew may be much less expensive than feet for the Adler, do a search on the feet and other accessories you may want, that may influence your decision.

I believe the Consew 206RB-4 and prior are all Japanese made. There is a post somewhere here where Gregg outlined the difference in the Consew - models.

Sold.

Yeah its tight on mine too for the half then it relaxes once it gets halfway. Is your opener rough ? Maybe that's nicking the thread. Maybe Eric will chime in again, he's a professional.

If that link works its a video of my 153W101. The thread is tight across the top of the bobbin. If yours is hanging up that's probably the culprit.

The thread should go around. Watch the piont of the hook as it catches the loop, make sure its not splitting the thread, mine was out of time a bit and the hook to far away from the scarf causes the point of the hook to split the top thread. Also with yhe machine off, run your finger over the hook and thread path to make sure there are no burs abraiding the thread

I picked this up thinking I'd use it but probably won't. As you can see the base is broken I'll sell parts off it, make an offer. Located in Waterloo WI.

I've read of people placing Nerf balls under the pedal to add resistance to help avoid a runaway or even bungie cords from the front of the pedal. A servo is really nice though.

Is it possible the added material height under the foot is engaging the tension release? I've read loops on the bottom is a top tension issue.

http://www.mainethread.com/product216.html I've used this in the .035" size, worked good

http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html More info here, scroll down